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  • Engine: R-1 Upgrade

    I have a early '62 289 that I want to up grade to a R-1. How important is it to have a R-1 Vibration damper with R-1 timing marks? Is it possible to use generic 289 and re-mark it?

  • #2
    I would think the best way would be to mark zero and have a timing light with the dial to set advance. My snap on is built that way. You can dial in anything you want and just go off zero.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Turismo Tom View Post
      I have a early '62 289 that I want to up grade to a R-1. How important is it to have a R-1 Vibration damper with R-1 timing marks? Is it possible to use generic 289 and re-mark it?
      How much time and how many shift cylcles will the engine spend above 3,500 RPMs?

      jack vines
      PackardV8

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      • #4
        As jack says, the Avanti dampers are for high RPM work. Still, an Avanti damper would be a good addition. I'd give some thought about using the R1 flat top pistons...Gasoline definitely isn't what it used to be!

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        • #5
          Yes, if your main thought is to have actual, usable timing marks on your damper, sure. Pull the existing damper off, mark the degrees (a computer drafting tool really helps here) -15 degrees and every 90 degrees, on your existing plate and use a fine file or a Dremal type tool and cut shallow degree marks, paint them while/silver, put it back together.

          Now...you have not only marks for setting usable ignition timing, but you also have marks that make it much easier to set your valve lash (by the firing order)..!

          Mike

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          • #6
            Are you sure you want to use a R series damper on a short nose shaft anyway ? The R timing marks are on the tab, not the balancer.

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            • #7
              What ever you do I have a few if you or any one wants one, part of the racing stash.
              Candbstudebakers
              Castro Valley,
              California


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              • #8
                It really is not about the Timing anyway, the improvement is in the BALANCE and dampening of the "Power" strokes of the high lift/overlap Cam Engine as Jack said, at higher RPM's.
                StudeRich
                Second Generation Stude Driver,
                Proud '54 Starliner Owner
                SDC Member Since 1967

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                • #9
                  Considering the balancer is changed to an R1 part what other changes would need to be made, different water pump pulley etc... or is the balancer the only thing? Timing tab as well, or does the cover have to be for R series engines? Having not had any R series engines to play with I have not bothered to study them in depth.

                  Len.

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                  • #10
                    The inclusion of some still obtainable TEL will ameliorate any possibility of potential detonation
                    Originally posted by SN-60 View Post
                    As jack says, the Avanti dampers are for high RPM work. Still, an Avanti damper would be a good addition. I'd give some thought about using the R1 flat top pistons...Gasoline definitely isn't what it used to be!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Do not add leaded gas to any street driven car. It is never required, and is against the law. Some new cars run just fine with 11:1 compression. Many cars have turbo superchargers....they run just fine too! They have electronically controlled ignition timing to get the most out of the available octane available.
                      Bez Auto Alchemy
                      573-318-8948
                      http://bezautoalchemy.com


                      "Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Skybolt View Post
                        Considering the balancer is changed to an R1 part what other changes would need to be made, different water pump pulley etc... or is the balancer the only thing? Timing tab as well, or does the cover have to be for R series engines? Having not had any R series engines to play with I have not bothered to study them in depth.

                        Len.
                        Add an R1 oil pan, two special bolts on the main cap for a splash tray in the oil pan, R1 distributor, breather tube on the oil pan, aluminum timing gear, valley pan, chrome air filter and valve covers, valve springs, chrome breather caps, and AFB carburetor. Not sure whether there is a throttle kicker or not.


                        Allen
                        1964 GT Hawk
                        PSMCDR 2014
                        Best time: 14.473 sec. 96.57 MPH quarter mile
                        PSMCDR 2013
                        Best time: 14.654 sec. 94.53 MPH quarter

                        Victoria, Canada

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Hawklover View Post
                          The inclusion of some still obtainable TEL will ameliorate any possibility of potential detonation
                          Adding lead really isn't the way to go in this day and age Hawklover!

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                          • #14
                            R1 Harmonic Balancer

                            Originally posted by candbstudebakers View Post
                            What ever you do I have a few if you or any one wants one, part of the racing stash.
                            Greetings from Oz! I am doing similar, upgrading an Australian 1963 Hawk to R1. Standard Oz Hawks came with low comp (7.5:1 with 1557582 heads) engines. I have some 571 heads with oversize valves from Mr Thibeault, flat-tops, a nice cam from Fairborn, and an edelbrock 1406. The question of the harmonic balancer as necessity has nagged me also. Is it feasible to fit an R1 on a standard snub-nose crank? Due to lack of availability in this part of the world, I was also wondering if there is such a thing as an aftermarket universal harmonic balancer that would suffice?? Cheers, Quentin.

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                            • #15
                              All later V8 cranks are the longer snout I think 62 and later, so yours should be good to go as is.
                              Bez Auto Alchemy
                              573-318-8948
                              http://bezautoalchemy.com


                              "Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln

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