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  • Frame / Springs: Replacing coils

    Have a 64 Hawk. Anybody have luck removing and replacing coils with just a spring compressor or do you need to lower the lower control arm?

  • #2
    I used the weight of the car as my spring compressor, a floor jack under the inboard end. You've gotta get the assembly high enough on Jack Stands to make it work, though. If the engine is out of the car, you will need a spring compressor, or a couple/three heavy warm bodies.

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    • #3
      But the way you are mentioning you need to separate the upper and lower control arms right? I was wondering if it could be done with a spring compressing tool and not splitting the control arms.

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      • #4
        Hawkjockey, i've done this quite a few times.I never could compress the spring enough to get it out between the "a" frames. I always dropped the lower by taking it loose from the king pin. Once seperated tie the upper assy. up out of the way then lower the floor jack and the spring will relax and you can wrestle it out watch what you are doing and think through each step. I tried taking the lower shaft loose from frame once and had a devil of a time lining up bolt holes again, besides my floor jack was there. Good Luck and watch your step , Doofus

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        • #5
          Which is easier, removing the kingpin from the top or bottom frame. Looking at it it looks easier to remove it from the top. Thanks for the responses, and I like your handle also!!

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          • #6
            The Factory (Shop Manual) recommends lowering the Inner end of the lower "A" Arm.
            It can be easier to disconnect the upper, outer Pin from the King Pin except, you will lose the Alignment, since that is where the eccentric Pin for adjustments is located.

            I NEVER heard of anyone trying to disconnect a Lower Outer Pin, I have no idea what danger that may entail.
            StudeRich
            Second Generation Stude Driver,
            Proud '54 Starliner Owner
            SDC Member Since 1967

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            • #7
              You dont take the upper loose. Thats only for bushing replacement. You run the same risks no matter which end you take loose, if you drop the inner end of the lower arm the car has to be way up on stands to lower the "A" arm down to get the spring out. once new spring is in place you have to wool around the "A" arm to get the bolt holes to line up and that can be an exercise in frustration! It's just simpler for me the way i've been doing it . start by greasing the king pin by the way. I'm just a hobbyist who still works on his own studes and yes i still have all my fingers. Good Luck, Doofus

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              • #8
                PS You dont disconnect the pin you disconnect the trunnion from the bottom of the king pin, Doofus

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                • #9
                  I highly recommend you buy a Shop Manual before turning the first bolt on the front suspension. Then, pre-read it for about a week, and gather any special tools necessary. You will then be able to do it with ease. It can be dangerous, if you just dive into it.

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                  • #10
                    I've a VERY good forged steel compressor from the early 50s my father gave me that works fantastic, safe and efficient, but one MUST take the bottom A-arm loose from the frame--no other way I've ever seen with any of the Stude springs I've done. Best of luck!!! Be safe; many have been hurt NOT doing it correctly, or with inadequate or inappropriate tools!

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                    • #11
                      I have read, seen, heard of it done a few ways and it does seem easier to do it Doofus' way, not that I have tried it that way, but have read of it a few times, and seen a write up of it if he is doing it the way I read. I personally do it by the inner lower method. Have done it more times than i wanted to and it is a matter of having weight in the frame and it being raised high enough to allow the arm to swing out far enough.

                      The main reason for not removing the lower outer at the A-arm is the threads in the A-arm are somewhat made with the caps and the more times they are removed and replaced the more wear they receive until the A-arm needs replacing. Removing the trunnion from the kingpin is just a nut removal. I don't know if any adjustment is lost but it would be minor if any.

                      The shop manual recommends removal of the upper inner arm bolts, "Front Suspension - Front Springs" section, page 5, in the manual, figures 4 & 5. This is the correct way to do it but represented in the manual no brake components are installed. I don't know if this is why many use the inner lower method as opposed to the inner upper or not but it could be as the brake hose may not have sufficient length to remain attached while doing it the factory way.

                      Len.

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                      • #12
                        I've always done it by loosening the lower trunnion with a jack under the lower A-arm. The jack method only works if you have the drive train in the car for weight. The downside is sometimes one needs to smack it a few time with a hammer to get it to start. Be sure you just turn the nut a couple of turns so it is still in place for an extra safety measure until the setup is loose. If you need springs it's probably time to replace other worn suspension parts.

                        Personally, if I'm replacing the springs, I leave the shock in place and torch the coils. You will get an appreciation when the first one lets go of the energy in the system but with the torch I'm a couple of feet away and it's all contained by the assembly.

                        Be safe, there is a lot of energy in those springs. Bob

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                        • #13
                          I ALWAYS remove the outer lower trunion. It is quick, easier, and less hassle getting things back together. I make my own spring compressor, and it passes through the spring in place of where the shock would normally be.
                          Bez Auto Alchemy
                          573-318-8948
                          http://bezautoalchemy.com


                          "Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by bezhawk View Post
                            I ALWAYS remove the outer lower trunion. It is quick, easier, and less hassle getting things back together. I make my own spring compressor, and it passes through the spring in place of where the shock would normally be.
                            I'm interested in the spring compressor you mentioned. Do you have any photos or a good description? It sounds straight forward enough. Is it just some all-thread and some way to mount it to the shock mounts?

                            Len.

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                            • #15
                              All thread will work , if you replace it after three or four times you use it. It is pretty soft, and can strip if you try to use it too many times. The lower plate is not bolted to the shock mounts so it is free to slide. You don't want to put stress on the all thread or bend it in any way. It is fast, safe and effecient, and will not allow the spring to go flying across the room or into the person working on the car. The top is a stack of washers, and a nut. You can use my style of compressor without any weight on the suspension, and don't need a jack to put it back together. I can remove a spring in 5 minutes with my setup, and the spring is contained the whole time, no way the control arm to slip out from under a jack and push it off the jack stands and send the spring careening across the shop and possibly killing someone. Advising someone to chain the spring and unbolt the control arm and lower it with a jack is plain stupid in my book.
                              Bez Auto Alchemy
                              573-318-8948
                              http://bezautoalchemy.com


                              "Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln

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