Transmission / Overdrive: 63 Hawk, new starter ring gear, wont shift into 3rd (OD trans)

[savannahgreg]

Per prior post, I replaced the ring gear, starter drive, clutch disc, bearing and had the surfaces machined. After installing the trans, it shifts into gears fine until running then it wont shift into 3rd. I read prior posts and adjusted the linkage a number of different ways including the way the manual suggests and still not shifting into 3rd. The driveshaft is not yet connected so maybe the output shaft has to be spinning as it will stop with no rotating mass in the wheels or driveshaft. Or there is some binding in the system from ever so slightly out of alignment clutch to input shaft? There is some play at the steering column alignment piece where the forks exit so that the adjustments are variable depending on where this piece with the grease fitting is at. In other words, even if aligned so that the tool passes through the holes, I could still be off since there is a range of motion of the alignment piece.

[JoeHall]

I would not even start the motor up without the drive shaft connected. Once connected, try driving it and see how it shifts. If it still will not shift into 3rd, or any other gear, let us know what it is doing, i.e. grinding, or nothing at all.

[savannahgreg]

Ok everything connected and working, more or less. Good news, OD works, bad news, very notchy 1 to 2 to 3 while moving. I kind of hunt around for the slot. Very smooth with engine off. It's like there is something internal holding up the shifts. The shift levers at the transmission are positive and firm. No grinding except slightly when shifting into 1st at a light. I was under the impression that the OD disengages the trans input so there should be no motion when stopped. Clutch engagement pretty smooth from rest. Now I am a total novice when it comes to Studebakers and this type transmission so not sure what is normal. This status is mildly acceptable but clearly I must have screwed up somewhere.

[jackb]

sometimes the shift tube can be buggered up so as not to move the rods correctly. Also, I think previously mentioned, the lever grommets might be toast as well as engine rubber insulators. That said, I put my money on the rod adjustments.....

[savannahgreg]

After finally getting it right, I see the rod adjustments are way longer than before taking the transmission out. That requires raising the engine to detach the rear mount under the clutch housing so perhaps the motor mounts got deformed or broken? Would I have engine shake if that were the case? Seems to be smooth.

[Tom Bredehoft]

Unless the engine mounts have been replaced within the last ten years they are toast. They should be replaced before adjusting linkages.

No grinding except slightly when shifting into 1st at a light.

This sounds like the clutch is dragging a little, probably will work out with a bit of use.

[studejohn]

Any chance you change the oil out of the transmission lately? Had a 64 wagon three speed overdrive had a clutch put in it oil changed out the guy put synthetic oil in it nothing but problems with shifting . Tried adjusting shift levers and everything else you can think of nothing help. Changed oil out to what the Manual call for. All shifting problems gone. Good luck

[savannahgreg]

I drained out the original oil which appeared to be standard gear oil and put in 85/90 GL4. I have only had the car a month so its history is unknown. Anyway, most problems seem gone for now and I will note how the car behaves with some miles on it. Could still be clutch dragging as per Jon B. Thanks to all for your help.

[Warren Webb]

Drain that GL-4! It contains additives that can be harmful to the bushings in the transmission. GL-1 is used. I get mine at Tractor Supply @ around $20 for a 2 gallon jug that comes out cheaper than the 1 gallon at NAPA.