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Transmission Removal From Hawk Per Shop Manual

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  • Transmission / Overdrive: Transmission Removal From Hawk Per Shop Manual

    I am trying to swap my T86 long tailshaft transmission in her 59 Silver Hawk for a T86 overdrive unit. I have everything disconnected per the shop manual. It says to slide unit rearward out of clutch and bellhousing, then tip the front down so main pinion shaft clears bellhousing and lower unit from the car. Sounded easy enough so I tried this. The problem is the tailshaft will not go up high enough to allow the pinion shaft down and out. It runs into the floor of the car. It appears to me that the bell housing and rear engine crossmember may also need to be removed. But before I do this I wondered what the rest of you have done when removing the transmission from a hawk? Is the shop manual not telling me the correct procedure?
    Thanks,
    Kevin

  • #2
    I am assuming you removed, or at least slid the bat wing rearward about a foot? You will probably need to remove one or both sides of the exhaust in order to do wither of the aforementioned with the bat wing. Not sure what the Shop Manual says, but I cannot imagine removing the tranny without moving the bat wing.

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    • #3
      No, The bat wing is still in place. This would involve removing body hold down bolts IIRC. The car is a fresh restore. I would rather remove bellhousing and crossmember.
      I was hoping maybe the shop manual instructions were correct and I was wrong again. That happened one other time(me being wrong).

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      • #4
        Removing the bat wing is easy, and only requires removal of 10, easy to access bolts; 4 on each side hold the bat to the frame, and one on each side anchor it to the door pillars. Without the exhaust, it takes maybe 10 minutes to remove the BW. You might be able to slide it rearward far enough without removing both sides of the exhaust, I just disconnect at the manifold and lower them a few inches, to rest on jack stands; that usually lets them down far enough to slide the BW rearward.
        Last edited by JoeHall; 11-02-2014, 07:03 AM.

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        • #5
          I'm going out to the shop and consider this option.
          Thanks Joe,
          Kevin

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          • #6
            What Joe said, just pull the batwing and the transmission will fall out.

            If all you're doing is a transmission swap, don't even touch the bellhousing.

            And congrats on adding overdrive. It'll make driving your car a thousand times more enjoyable. I'd never own a 3 speed Stude without it.

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            • #7
              If dropping the exaust down onto jack stands, be sure to put a rag on each tail pipe between it and the rear valance, or else the tail pipe may scratch the paint on the valance, as the pipe comes up back there and will often "kiss" the valance.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by RDWEAVER View Post
                No, The bat wing is still in place. This would involve removing body hold down bolts IIRC. The car is a fresh restore. I would rather remove bellhousing and crossmember.
                I was hoping maybe the shop manual instructions were correct and I was wrong again. That happened one other time(me being wrong).
                I get your concerns about loosening and removing the 'batwing' crossmember. Sometimes, on a fresh restoration, as your car is, unbolting that piece can lead to door alignment problems and chipped paint. Let's face it, our C-K Studes do 'FLEX' a bit! If you have access to a cherry picker, you could loosen the engine and trans mounts and shift the engine ahead a few inches.....Definitely extra work, but sometimes the long way is the short way!....Good luck!...(And installing an O/D tranny is a teriffic idea)

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                • #9
                  Ed,
                  Chipped paint, I agree, that's why I mentioned the above about the tail pipes & valance. Door alignment, nope, not a chance. If temporarily removing the BW affects door alignment, there are other, bigger structural problems going on with the car, which should be addressed before ever rolling it out the garage door.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by JoeHall View Post
                    Ed,
                    Chipped paint, I agree, that's why I mentioned the above about the tail pipes & valance. Door alignment, nope, not a chance. If temporarily removing the BW affects door alignment, there are other, bigger structural problems going on with the car, which should be addressed before ever rolling it out the garage door.
                    I hear you Joe, but unfortunately, the C/K's had flex issues when they were brand new...fifty years later...???? (of course, I'm giving the auto body man's perspective on things here!

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by SN-60 View Post
                      I hear you Joe, but unfortunately, the C/K's had flex issues when they were brand new...fifty years later...???? (of course, I'm giving the auto body man's perspective on things here!
                      I was concerned about this when I removed my car's BW too. I had it 'up on blocks' the weight of the car resting on the tires, no jack stands touching the frame or suspension. Once I removed the BW I checked the door fit and latching and it was the exact same as the with the BW in place. I'm thinking it should not be a huge concern considering my car is a 54 Champion with an unrestored frame and v-8 in place where the little 6 once was.
                      sigpic
                      1954 C5 Hamilton car.

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                      • #12
                        It's out bat wing came right off and back. Then we dropped the right exhaust down. It came right out then. No mention of this in the shop manual. They may have missed this . Thanks for everyones help made the job easier than removing bell housing.
                        Kevin

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                        • #13
                          Good to hear!

                          As for the OD, a couple of suggestions: Hang the control cable up vertically and use the corner of a plastic sandwich bag and rubber band to create a funnel with reservoir. Fill the reservoir with oil and wait about a day for it to drip out the other end. This way, the cable will stay well lubed for years to come.

                          When it comes to the wiring, be careful and insure it is correct before going for a test drive. The first one I did, I got the wires screwed up and the motor backfired so hard it ballooned the mufflers, and woulda blown them completely off had they not been welded.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by JoeHall View Post
                            Good to hear!

                            As for the OD, a couple of suggestions: Hang the control cable up vertically and use the corner of a plastic sandwich bag and rubber band to create a funnel with reservoir. Fill the reservoir with oil and wait about a day for it to drip out the other end. This way, the cable will stay well lubed for years to come.

                            When it comes to the wiring, be careful and insure it is correct before going for a test drive. The first one I did, I got the wires screwed up and the motor backfired so hard it ballooned the mufflers, and woulda blown them completely off had they not been welded.
                            It will be a couple months before I get to this point Joe. Got to get the wiring harness and cable yet. I am guessing these should be available somewhere. Her car did not have these po must have removed them.
                            Kevin

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                            • #15
                              The Overdrive wire harness is available at Studebakers West and others, but it would be very easy to make.
                              StudeRich
                              Second Generation Stude Driver,
                              Proud '54 Starliner Owner
                              SDC Member Since 1967

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