Acrylic Enamel for wheels

[Studebaker1965]

Hi Guys,

So Im in the process of painting my wheels. I had them sandblasted and used an epoxy primer to seal them. I then painted the backs black using an acrylic enamel. They look nice, but are very glossy. I'm concerned that the acrylic Wimbledon white will be too glossy to look period correcct. I like that the acrylic is a hard paint, but I want it to look period. Any experience out there with acrylic. Should I just sand blast and start over with single stage enamel? Thanks guys.

Nate

[DEEPNHOCK]

Beige is a light color, and should go on over a light base coat.

[48skyliner]

The standard definition of "single stage" paint is simply that no clearcoat is required. Most acrylic enamels are single stage, although some metallic colors have recommended a clearcoat. The big boys, meaning DuPont and PPG, are trying to get us all to stop using acrylic enamel so they can sell us the outrageously expensive new urethanes. They now are charging $600-800 for the same acrylic enamel they were selling us for $15 a gallon back in the 1960s. Some of my body men friends like acrylic enamel, as I do, and are buying it on line, for about $100 a gallon from places like Paint For Cars. The old alkyd enamels were pretty durable and are still available from some sources, mostly used for machinery, but I think the acrylic enamels are more durable if you use a hardener. The acrylics are definitely easier to spray, and can be sanded, buffed and polished if you make a mistake. There are also single stage urethanes available.

I would not worry so much about hardness - chip resistance is more important, especially with wheels. The main issue is good adhesion. A properly applied epoxy primer will probably give the best adhesion you can get to the metal, or even to old finishes, and paint applied within a few hours to the epoxy will give good adhesion to the primer. Any of these paints will lose some of their gloss over time as they cure, especially a single stage paint.

Everyone will tell you that the worst paint for durability is lacquer. I painted my RX-7 with lacquer in 1997 and still get a lot of compliments on the paint job - lacquer with a lacquer clear coat. I painted the wheels to match, lacquer with a urethane clear coat. After 15 years and 40,000 miles, I upgraded to bigger wheels and brakes, and my friend adapted the Mazda wheels to his Geo. He has put another 10,000 miles on them and I still cannot find a single scratch or rock chip.

[Paul K.]

If the paint is too glossy you could add a flattening agent to it. Then you can mix the paint to have the exact level of gloss you want. It is usually translucent in color so it can be used with various colors. Or, if you have a sample of the color and gloss you want have a quart custom mixed by a paint supplier.

[Buzzard]

My '63 GT Hawk still has the original Nitrocellulose black lacquer paint. I simply wet sand (2000 grit) any areas that need touch up and follow with cut polish and then final with Mothers or Meguires and it looks pretty much like 1963. The stuff is harder than nails.
Bill

[Studebaker1965]

Thanks for the knowledge guys. I'm newer to painting, but love it. I thought about a flattening agent. I just wish I knew what stude used at the factory and how glossy the wheels were originally.

[Studebaker1965]

So for an update, I spoke with my paint man today. He is going to add flattening agent to the Wimbledon white I had mixed. He is also going to make a semi-gloss acrylic for me to re-shoot the backs of the rims. Luckily, I had an old rim with a snow tire on it to compare gloss-ness to. Apparantly, the original owner had an older set of Stude rims wrapped with snow tires. The color of the rims is the pre 64 almond white shade. Thanks for all the wisdom. I'll be spending the weekend scuffing and re-shooting the rims. I'll post some pics when done.

Nate

[StudeRich]

I don't like to be the bearer of bad News, but I feel I should warn you that many posts here will verify and some not, but the truth is only some Canadian built '64's had whiter wheels like Wimbledon.

US '64's were just like '62-'63, Almond/Ivory, beige. I really am sorry to report this, but since you are trying soo hard to "get it right", I feel like you should know, it's back to the drawing board.

Do not expect any further response from me as I am not well this week, just popped in for a quick look to try to help, sorry.

Studebaker International Acrylic Enamel Spray can '62-'64 Ivory Wheel Paint, applied over Chem-Etch spraycan Olive Green Primer with sandblast to a Drum Brake "Budd" style '64 Wheel.

[SN-60]

The standard definition of "single stage" paint is simply that no clearcoat is required. Most acrylic enamels are single stage, although some metallic colors have recommended a clearcoat. The big boys, meaning DuPont and PPG, are trying to get us all to stop using acrylic enamel so they can sell us the outrageously expensive new urethanes. They now are charging $600-800 for the same acrylic enamel they were selling us for $15 a gallon back in the 1960s. Some of my body men friends like acrylic enamel, as I do, and are buying it on line, for about $100 a gallon from places like Paint For Cars. The old alkyd enamels were pretty durable and are still available from some sources, mostly used for machinery, but I think the acrylic enamels are more durable if you use a hardener. The acrylics are definitely easier to spray, and can be sanded, buffed and polished if you make a mistake. There are also single stage urethanes available.

I would not worry so much about hardness - chip resistance is more important, especially with wheels. The main issue is good adhesion. A properly applied epoxy primer will probably give the best adhesion you can get to the metal, or even to old finishes, and paint applied within a few hours to the epoxy will give good adhesion to the primer. Any of these paints will lose some of their gloss over time as they cure, especially a single stage paint.

Everyone will tell you that the worst paint for durability is lacquer. I painted my RX-7 with lacquer in 1997 and still get a lot of compliments on the paint job - lacquer with a lacquer clear coat. I painted the wheels to match, lacquer with a urethane clear coat. After 15 years and 40,000 miles, I upgraded to bigger wheels and brakes, and my friend adapted the Mazda wheels to his Geo. He has put another 10,000 miles on them and I still cannot find a single scratch or rock chip.[ATTACH=CONFIG]37808[/ATTACH]

Agree with your comments. And as far as the lacquer paint goes...to me it's still tops for 'looks' under the scrutiny of flourescent lighting...My '55 Speedster and my '63 Avanti were both painted with acrylic lacquer twenty years ago and still look good...both cars are garaged though, as I realize lacquer doesn't stand up to the elements very well long term!

[Bordeaux Daytona]

I tried Wimbleton but it was too bright compared to my original '64 rims. A friend suggested Rustoleum Canvas White. I've used it twice and I've been happy with the results.

[Studebaker1965]

Hey stude rich, I've got a 65, so I think the Wimbledon is correct. I read up on some of your old posts.

[52 Ragtop]

Why not paint the insides white too? That always looks good from under the vehicle. When you paint them, mount the tire but do not blow it up. mask off the tire, then you can get the paint on the inside lip next to the tire. Once dry, blow up the tire and the little bit of white that shows next to the tire will give it a very detailed look.

Jim

[Studebaker1965]

Jim, that's a nice detailing hint! I'm painting them as they were originally. Mine came from the factory with black on the backs and white shot on front with overspray on backs.

Nate

[SScopelli]

Wimbledon White looks correct and I doubt someone is going to get a light meater or color chips to compare it.

Are you using dog bowls or full caps? Are you going with disc brakes as well? Show car for points?

Disc brakes are going to leave dust on your wheels, unless you use a back side cover.

I would not worry about the back side being too glossy, over time, they will dull from road use unless you will remove and constantly clean.

I've been told that in 61, the wheels were not the same color as the body, but since using full discs, I think it looks nice as well. If you are using full hubcaps you would only see the edge anyway.

[Studebaker1965]

That is a beautiful lark! I watched the 7day unreality build with excitement. I'll be running center hubcaps, drum brakes. Just going for authenticity. Having fun tinkering with it!