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  • Brakes: brakes

    Ok. I've rebuilt the rear brakes, rebuilt the front disks on my 72 Avanti. I replaced the master cylinder with a 67 Ford Fairline 500 with front disk brakes (recommended) . I've bled till I'm blue in the face. I've bench bled, I've bled after installation, I've replaced the wheel cylinders, I've replaced the calipers with Wilwood calipers. I STILL HAVE NO BRAKES. Brake pedal goes down, no disks, rear locks up. This is not my first rodeo but this is throwing me. Anyone able to give me some advice?????

    Thanks in advance
    Chris

  • #2
    Check that the rod on the booster is adjusted long enough to actually activate the master cylinder. Conversely that it releases enough to uncover the fluid ports in the master cylinder. You should have about .025 clearence between the end of the rod and the end of the piston cup.
    Bez Auto Alchemy
    573-318-8948
    http://bezautoalchemy.com


    "Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln

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    • #3
      When you're bleeding those front discs...does fluid actually come out of the bleeder screw? (with definite force behind it?)

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      • #4
        oh yes. I have bled gallons (well maybe ounces)

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        • #5
          I will check that right now. Thanks

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          • #6
            I'm with Brad, Check the adjustment between the M/c and the pedal.

            Jim
            "We can't all be Heroes, Some us just need to stand on the curb and clap as they go by" Will Rogers

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            • #7
              Is the Rear, Larger M/C Reservoir connected to Front Brakes as it should be?
              Sorry I am pretty sure you know that, I just had to check, there ARE a few people out there who do not get that.
              StudeRich
              Second Generation Stude Driver,
              Proud '54 Starliner Owner
              SDC Member Since 1967

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              • #8
                Originally posted by StudeRich View Post
                Is the Rear, Larger M/C Reservoir connected to Front Brakes as it should be?
                Sorry I am pretty sure you know that, I just had to check, there ARE a few people out there who do not get that.
                No offense taken. Sometimes it is the simplest thing. They are connected to the rear, which helps to make it so dang frustrating.

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                • #9
                  Make sure your calipers are mounted with the bleeder screw high. If it's mounted low on the caliper then you'll never get the air completely out.
                  59 Lark wagon, now V-8, H.D. auto!
                  60 Lark convertible V-8 auto
                  61 Champ 1/2 ton 4 speed
                  62 Champ 3/4 ton 5 speed o/drive
                  62 Champ 3/4 ton auto
                  62 Daytona convertible V-8 4 speed & 62 Cruiser, auto.
                  63 G.T. Hawk R-2,4 speed
                  63 Avanti (2) R-1 auto
                  64 Zip Van
                  66 Daytona Sport Sedan(327)V-8 4 speed
                  66 Cruiser V-8 auto

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by bezhawk View Post
                    Check that the rod on the booster is adjusted long enough to actually activate the master cylinder. Conversely that it releases enough to uncover the fluid ports in the master cylinder. You should have about .025 clearence between the end of the rod and the end of the piston cup.
                    .019" clearance

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Warren Webb View Post
                      Make sure your calipers are mounted with the bleeder screw high. If it's mounted low on the caliper then you'll never get the air completely out.
                      Bench bled and on-car bled both ok

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                      • #12
                        Since you have tried everything else, dump the Ford MC and go back to an OEM type.

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