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  • Electrical: Re-starting issues

    Hello, have a 51 Champion with 6cyl/6V system that's been in storage for several months. It has been started periodically and has a battery disconnect but no tender/charger.
    The car was taken out this past Saturday and driven around for an hour or so without any real issues. It was also driven some on Sunday as well. On Sunday I stalled the engine a couple of times (still learning ins and outs). When I tried to start the car again, it wouldn't do anything. The starter wouldn't engage and there were no other sounds that I could tell coming from the engine. There were also no lights/blinkers wouldn't work. After the car sat for 5 to 10 minutes, I tried again and after a couple of tries I was back on my way. This happened two different times on Sunday.
    I'm thinking it may be the battery (Optima) as I believe it's at least a couple of years old but I had read some posts about grounding wire issues that caused similar problems. I appreciate any input to get me going in the right direction.
    Thanks,
    Brett

  • #2
    It could also be the starter switch. The stick has it under the clutch pedal and the automatic has a switch on the dash. Which do you have?

    If you have an automatic, it could also be the neutral start switch.

    I just read the "no lights, no blinkers" comment. It could be an intermittent connection on the battery cables, on either one, on either end. Sometimes they can look good, but have corrosion inside, under the insulation.

    Does the ammeter read a charge when the engine is running at fast idle or higher RPM?
    RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.


    10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
    4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
    5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon

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    • #3
      In my experience, Optima batterys can be really good...or junk. I have, have had, one of each.

      Also about your ground question. It doesn't matter about the battery, "all" cars should have good clean (to bare metal) tight...multiple...grounds for best results.

      Mike

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      • #4
        I agree that it could be a ground issue. Best bet is too remove the ground and clean with a wire brush or sandpaper and make sure the metal is bare as can be where it contacts. A good time to go over the starter connections too, with the battery disconnected of course. 6 volt systems draw some good amperage so clean connections are critical. If you don't have any luck do a voltage drop test across the battery cables, this can tell you if you have a cable issue.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by RadioRoy View Post
          It could also be the starter switch. The stick has it under the clutch pedal and the automatic has a switch on the dash. Which do you have?

          If you have an automatic, it could also be the neutral start switch.

          Does the ammeter read a charge when the engine is running at fast idle or higher RPM?
          It is a manual transmission and it's like the starter switch just stopped working in those couple of instances. The ammeter does read a positive charge. It was positive most the majority of the time it was running both days.

          Brett

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          • #6
            This may or may not be related to this issue but there also seems to be a short in the horn wiring as well. Sometimes when turning the steering wheel (doesn't matter left or right) the horn would sound. And yes I thought that I was just bumping with my forearm but that wasn't always the case.

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