Rear Axle: TT Rear Axle Visual Identification

[SweetSixtyn]

How can I identify a Twin Traction rear axle if it's out of the car? Were TT's available in the '59-'60 Larks?

Thanks for any help. I'm new to the Stude's.

[bezhawk]

There may be a tag on one of the cover bolts that says 45 followed by(A, B or C). Also remove the filler plug and insert a finger into the hole. If you can insert it a long was before hitting the carrier, then it's probably an open carrier. If you hit an obstruction (carrier) not very far in then you have a twin traction as the unit fills the case much more.

[StudeRich]

Also turning a Drum usually turns the opposite one the same direction on a TT, where a Open one will go the opposite direction.

[studegary]

For the second question - yes.

[GinettaG12P]

Mine says 45D

[Mike Van Veghten]

Sweet -

To answer your question.
The easiest and most positive way is to just remove the housing cover. With the cover up/pinion down, remove the cover.

A posi unit will be a big round, with squared off corners, mostly machined "drum" if you will. You can look into the "drum" or carrier and see the clutch plates. You'll be able to see the cross shaft and only two spider gears. The other two are hidden within the 2 clutch packs, one on each side.

An "open" (non-posi) carrier will be an addly shaped carrier that is almost all...as cast surface. When you look into the large openings in this carrier, you'll be able to see the four spider gears and a cross shaft.

And yes, early Larks have positraction units. My 59 wagon has one.

Hope this helps.

Mike

[SweetSixtyn]

Many thanks everyone!! Great tech help. My local Stude hoarder has axles laying all over so I'm looking for a couple TT axles to go under my two Larks.

[SweetSixtyn]

Soooo, what would be the best combination to look for in a 44TT axle? Excluding gear ratios, as these would be determined by other issues such as HP, Torque, transmission ratios, intended purpose, etc. I was reading something about tapered or flanged axles???

[Bills R2]

Do I have a limited slip?
Pull the fill plug & stick your finger in the hole. (The axle should not be moving If your finger stops @ the first knuckle- TT.

[StudeRich]

Soooo, what would be the best combination to look for in a 44TT axle? Excluding gear ratios, as these would be determined by other issues such as HP, Torque, transmission ratios, intended purpose, etc. I was reading something about tapered or flanged axles???

Actually the Ratio IS the most important thing to look for, it is not really that complicated, they ARE Tagged.

For STOCK 259 & 289 V8's with DIRECT Top Gear (Std. 3 or 4 Speed, or Automatic) used for mostly Highway/Interstate Cruising and good fuel Mileage a 3.07 would be preferred. If you wanted a bit more Performance a 3.31 or even 3.54 would be good but increasing Noise, Engine wear and Lowering Fuel Mileage.

If you have the Stock Borg Warner 3 Speed Overdrive or a GM THM Conversion 700R4, 4L60E, 2004R etc. then there are many options depending on the HP output of the Engine. Most Stock Stude. small displacement Engines require a 3.54, 3.73 or 4.09 Ratio with the Borg Warner Overdrive, to get them started, because Low is not SUPER Low, but the GM's work well with 3.31 or 3.07 especially with more than 225 HP.

If you plan to do a lot of Street/Strip Racing the sky is the limit for Lower High Performance Gears.

As far as the Tapered Axle vs. Flanged Axle, almost all you find from '53 to '64 Cars will be Tapered Axle Diff's. only a very few Late '65 or '66 Models will be found without the Axle and Nut sticking out of the Hub/Drum Assembly.

The Tapered Axles are way more difficult to service Brakes because of needing a Hub Puller and weaker because of the taper, but have held up fairly well up to 240-300 HP.

However Moser H.D. Flanged Axle conversion Kits are available from Studebaker Vendors, but only for the Tapered Axle Rear Ends.

If you are going from a Model 23 or 27 to a 44, you need the 44 Spring Plates and "U" Bolts and a shorter Driveshaft.

[SweetSixtyn]

StudeRich,

Whoa, that a lot of info for a nugget like me. I have a broad background in hot rodding and have assembled numerous cars and trucks from a '48 Chevy Ambulance to my wife's '51 GMC Suburban that has heavy chassis work, 14" Wilwood rotors and 6-piston calipers, and a 2005 LS Chevy engine @ 300hp. At my shop and the shop next door we have access to CNC milling, laser cutting, waterjet cutting, MIG/TIG welding and heavy automotive engineering braniacs. Me being on the lower end of the scale.

What I do have to offer the Studebaker world is picking skills and a local Studebaker hoarder who wants to start selling cars and parts. I'll be setting up a webpage on my site to show the cars and trucks he has available. He also has tons of parts here and there as well as engine and transmissions, etc.

Let's not digress. TT-wise I need to be able to ID the axles so I can grab a couple before opening the flood gates to everyone. Can you tell me more about the differences in the axles that are not tapered, how to identify them and what to stay away from (and why?)

I like this site. All info, no crap (mostly). It's like the GMC truck site I post on - keep the bull to a minimum and the politics out. Thanks guys and gals - EQUALLY.

[StudeRich]

ID'ing a rare 1965 or '66 Flanged Axle:
It will look just like any other make, with a slightly concave steel axle end with NO Threaded Axle end and Nut with flat washer and cotter key.

The most important thing to spot is on the Right side lower Web between the Axle Tube and the "Pumpkin", that is the RAISED in the Casting 23, 27 or 44.

The Ratio Tag under a Bolt at about 8:00 on the Left Side of the Rear Cover.

For TT's, there is the Tin Tag on the Right Side of the rear cover under a Cover bolt, as already described with a 45 and a letter code for the angle of the "Ramps" in the TT Clutch, B, C, D whatever.
Some later TT's also have a tin tag between the two right hand center bolts that say
"Use only SP Fluid". If in doubt about that just do the above mentioned tests, turn a Drum or remove the Fill Plug.

These are really all you have to look for, most all years 1953-1966 are very close to the same and interchangeable. The only ones that are Not, are the wider Track Units from Trucks, you will see that they are wider and have narrower spring "Pads".

This should be a "piece of cake", considering your above mentioned experience.

[SweetSixtyn]

Thanks StudeRich!

You're full of good info and active enough that I can almost fix stuff or figure stuff out real time.

[candbstudebakers]

Robert where in Central California do you live? I am in the Bay area.

[SweetSixtyn]

I'm up near Yosemite. You're about an hour and a half from me I think.