Brakes: Studebaker disk brake pads........

[Hawklover]

Pulled the pads out from the car today and measured the thicknes of each pad. Mintex GDB-704.

They measure 5/8 thick. To my eye they look like new with no wear.

Is 5/8 thickness good enough to leave in the car, or replace with new?

Thanks for the info:-)

[Gunslinger]

That's plenty thick enough. Unless the pads are glazed or cracked, they should be good to go...or stop as the case may be. Even if they're glazed, that can be taken care of...cracked is a different issue.

Besides...most replacement pads you can buy today are very noisy.

[63 R2 Hawk]

I got tired of the squeaky pads- tried centering them with correct shims several times and they measured out to be perfectly centered but still noisy. Tried a few high speed panic style stops, helped slightly. I finally pulled the pads back out and machined a shallow diagonal groove with a radiused bottom on each pad and added some disc brake pad no-noise compound, they are now quiet except stopping in reverse when cold or normal stops when they get extremely hot. I oriented the grooves so that they sweep dust to the outside of the disc. Been 2 years so far, I will check them again this spring.

[Hawklover]

Gun,
Would you know what the thickness is of brand new pads??

That's plenty thick enough. Unless the pads are glazed or cracked, they should be good to go...or stop as the case may be. Even if they're glazed, that can be taken care of...cracked is a different issue.

Besides...most replacement pads you can buy today are very noisy.

[Gunslinger]

If I remember correctly, most states require a minimum brake pad or shoe lining thickness of 2/32" over the backing plate (if bonded) or rivets. I don't know the original thickness of your pads but you have far more than minimum requirements for safety.

[Hawklover]

I can see brass sintered particles within the friction material.

[StudeRich]

My new Stude. Vendor, Semi-Metallic Pads in stock are 5/8" thick.

[Hawklover]

Rich,
Thanks so much!.............it would appear that my pads are as new!

I do drive the car about 500 miles per year:-)

[studebaker-R2-4-me]

These new pads are really noisy and drove me nuts last fall at every stop. Have not tried it yet, but I was told to use CRC brake quiet when installing new pads to stop the chattering and harmonics. I bought a bottle and have it somewhere probably rolling around in the trunk of my Hawk.



Allen

[Studebakercenteroforegon]

You will be very pleased with CRC Disc Brake Quiet. I have been using it on disc brake Studebakers for decades! No squeal at all.

[63 R2 Hawk]

That's the same stuff I used, couldn't think of the name and too lazy to go out in the shop and look for it. Works good but it's kinda tricky to apply it to the brake pad and slide it in without scraping the stuff off. I use it on all my disc brake installations.

[Rerun]

When installing the pads, make sure that the slotted sheet metal backing goes UNDER the retracter pin "nail head". I have seen pads that were installed with the sheet metal in front of the pin head - not good! To help reduce noise, make sure that the metal backing is tight under the pin head. If not, bend the metal slightly, where you have to tap the pads into position. Don't get too crazy, as the metal will separate from the pad if it's TOO tight. I have also found that filing a small (1/16") chamfer on the leading and trailing edges of the pad can help.

[Hawklover]

I will not name names.........but yrs ago I had the cyls ss sleeved.......for yrs I never liked the apparent drag on the brakes.......I took the front tires off pulled out the pistons........and guess what??.......the retractor pin...was smashed down...mushroomed....the pads would never retract!....I managed to get the pin up a bit and all has been fine........but the vendor that did this......should have known better!:-(

When installing the pads, make sure that the slotted sheet metal backing goes UNDER the retracter pin "nail head". I have seen pads that were installed with the sheet metal in front of the pin head - not good! To help reduce noise, make sure that the metal backing is tight under the pin head. If not, bend the metal slightly, where you have to tap the pads into position. Don't get too crazy, as the metal will separate from the pad if it's TOO tight. I have also found that filing a small (1/16") chamfer on the leading and trailing edges of the pad can help.