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  • CASO Paint Job

    I thought all the CASO folks would appreciate this. I did some touch up paint work on my recently acquired '35 Dictator 4 door. An advantage to owning a black car is that you needn't be too concerned about color matching when the inevitable touch up time comes. The fellow I got the car from told me he bought it from the family of the original owner (no way to prove it, of course, but I trust him), and he put it in dry storage from 1975 to 2010 when he finally got around to tinkering with it (he has several cars). He got the car running and did what he deemed necessary mechanical work--tune up, put a new exhaust on it, put in a replacement gas tank (12 gal. aluminum as opposed to the original 14 gal.). When I asked about the brakes, he said he put new shoes on all four wheels, but didn't touch the cylinders or hoses since they looked good. This, of course, told me the car needed a brake job, especially since the brake pedal travels halfway to the floorboard before there's any resistance. That might also occur if the shoes aren't properly adjusted, too. The tranny whines a bit in first gear but it fires right up (usually--see my posting on the Tech page about the Stromberg carb problem). He redid the interior but not 100% authentic from what I can tell. What impressed me most about the car was the body and sheet metal. He repainted the fenders (the right rear fender is a bit rough--you can readily tell it was pounded out and bondoed) and the upper roof area when he installed the new vinyl insert. The rest of the paint appears to be original. The only dent is a small crease in the trunk by the left tail light. The top of the hood on the driver's side show a few minor dents. And there was very little rust on the body which brings me to the CASO paint touch up. Sorry for the long digression!

    The paint, while original, is awfully tired. I don't think it's seen a coat of wax for at least a half century. There was a lot of road rash on the body--hundreds of little nicks, scratches, and chips. It must have seen a lot of gravel roads in its day. The paint had chipped away around the trim piece where the trunk meets the body with some minor surface rust forming. And there was some bubbling, crusting surface rust on both sides where the body meets the frame, mostly in cowl area. The PO removed the fenders to paint them (the fenders have new welting). Why he didn't touch up the cowl while the fenders were off is a mystery to me. To keep things from getting worse, I decided to do a little touch up work. Walmart was out of the $5.95 gloss black touch up paint, so I sprung for the $16.00 Duplicolor at the AutoZone (which does have a handy little abrasive tip for lightly rusted areas). This worked fine on the chips and scratches but not so good for the bigger stuff around the trunk and the cowl area. So back I go to Walmart for a half pint can of gloss black Rust-Oleum ($3.97) and a couple of toss-away 1" foam brushes ($0.53 each). I also found a few cheap Crayola brand artists paint brushes around the house and some sandpaper. With supplies in hand, I tackled the paint job today (It got up to 80 degrees here today--just had to mention that for the folks dealing with the current winter storm). Granted, up close the car looks like "The Great Speckled Bird" (remember that old Roy Acuff song?) but from 20 feet, ain't she sweet. This weekend I will put on a little "color back" wax to remove the heavy oxidation on it and see what happens. Sure beat a couple grand for a new paint job. Pics of the car are before the touch up job today.

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  • #2
    A restored car is NEVER original... so what about all those guys who "restored the car to original"?
    THIS is original, even with touch-ups it's just as any car from the old days without being a "rat"!
    & I'm one of those who REALLY love this stuff!

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    • #3
      Very Nice!

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      • #4
        Very nice Dictator Mark, drive and enjoy
        Joseph R. Zeiger

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        • #5
          you are doing the right thing just touching it up. I get a kick out of someone doing a body off the frame high dollar restoration and then entering the original class and then say they restored it to original.

          Denny L

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          • #6
            Thanks guys. Here are some photos of my '50 Land Cruiser. The car now sports blackwall tires. The wide whites are pretty on a big black sedan, but to me it wasn't worth an extra $500.00 just for pretty. Besides, they're a bear to keep clean. I put the fender skirts back on it, so it doesn't look too bad. This car, too, is mostly original with the exception of repainted NOS fenders (I still consider this original since its NOS) and a bad repaint on the hood and trunk lid (soon to be corrected) done by a PO back in the 80s. The interior is all original except for the carpet. Yes, the pot metal is pitted, and the chrome is a bit dull and scratched, and some of the glass is a little cloudy, and the steering wheel has the inevitable cracks, and the engine compartment is a little grungy. But when folks see the car they often comment on how well the car held up over all these years. It seems a lot of people look past the imperfections when they view our cars through the soft lens of nostalgia. And, yes, I never did quite get the "restored to original" phrase. More accurately, "restored to original factory specifications," I guess.

            Of course, I could have kept the rust and road rash on the '35, clear coated it, and called it "original patina."

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            • #7
              LOVE your cars,Mark. Especially the 35. That's my favorite pre war car.
              Neil Thornton

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              • #8
                Makes me miss my '50 LC. It was deep maroon, yup, painted head light doors, too. But its been gone almost 60 years...

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                • #9
                  great Studebaker!

                  when i had my '40 "original survivor", i hit a few road rash specks with Duplicolor Universal Black with a toothpick. just enough to fill in the speck to level it out. i went with a clay bar treatment then used Meguiar's cleaner wax, followed with Meguiar's Gold Class carnauba and a light buff. i've tried the Turtle Wax "Color Magic" black polish in the past, but wasn't impressed with the results.

                  i believe the use of the clay bar is key to getting any old paint to look better. other waxes may be fine - that's just what i used for good results.

                  my 2 cents.
                  Kerry. SDC Member #A012596W. ENCSDC member.

                  '51 Champion Business Coupe - (Tom's Car). Purchased 11/2012.

                  '40 Champion. sold 10/11. '63 Avanti R-1384. sold 12/10.

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                  • #10
                    i'm a really slow typist! i was talkin' about your '35 in the above post...

                    very nice Land Cruiser!
                    Kerry. SDC Member #A012596W. ENCSDC member.

                    '51 Champion Business Coupe - (Tom's Car). Purchased 11/2012.

                    '40 Champion. sold 10/11. '63 Avanti R-1384. sold 12/10.

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                    • #11
                      You'll need one of the spray qwik detail products from Mothers or Meguires to use with a clay bar. And...make sure to use a clay bar on cool sheet metal, otherwise...

                      To eliminate scratches that are 'in the paint' mix epoxy with touch up, dab it on with an ice cream stick.

                      When it dries, use 600 wet/dry to even it out, then rub out the scratches with DuPont White polishing compound.
                      Last edited by WinM1895; 12-06-2013, 06:13 PM.

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                      • #12
                        I see NOTHING CASO here at all, just smart.
                        Corley

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                        • #13
                          yes, what i meant by clay bar "treatment" was something like this: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=189455_0_0_

                          easy on the sanding/polishing compound on the nearby thin 78 year old paint if you go that way! i'd probably start with 1000 wet/dry and work down to 400 if needed. but that's just me!
                          Kerry. SDC Member #A012596W. ENCSDC member.

                          '51 Champion Business Coupe - (Tom's Car). Purchased 11/2012.

                          '40 Champion. sold 10/11. '63 Avanti R-1384. sold 12/10.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Corvanti View Post
                            yes, what i meant by clay bar "treatment" was something like this: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=189455_0_0_

                            easy on the sanding/polishing compound on the nearby thin 78 year old paint if you go that way! i'd probably start with 1000 wet/dry and work down to 400 if needed. but that's just me!
                            That's why I thought I'd see if the wax for oxidized finishes did the trick first. I don't want to get too aggressive, otherwise I will be looking at a $2000 paint job!

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                            • #15
                              i would think it would be at least triple that $2K price for a decent paint job - unless you "know a guy" that does side work. unless you are planning on flipping it and do a "Maaco" that won't last long.

                              i still recommend the clay bar treatment and nothing more abrasive than the "cleaner wax". do part of the car and see if you like it.

                              as many folks say: "your car, your money", etc. etc... good luck!
                              Kerry. SDC Member #A012596W. ENCSDC member.

                              '51 Champion Business Coupe - (Tom's Car). Purchased 11/2012.

                              '40 Champion. sold 10/11. '63 Avanti R-1384. sold 12/10.

                              Comment

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