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best method of swapping front springs

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  • Frame / Springs: best method of swapping front springs

    Looking for opinions on the best way to swap springs. The '63 below has ridiculously shot front springs. They actually have expansion spacers in them, and even with that, if I sit on the front fender of the car, it makes contact with the tire. (Okay, I'm a fairly big guy, but still...)

    So I have taken the sage recommendations of many here and ordered a pair of the Moog CC655's, which should be arriving on Friday.

    That said, what is the easiest method of swapping the springs? I am a man of limited time, and while I will be sure to not rush myself, if there's a 2 hour and a 6 hour method to do the task, I really need to do the 2 hour method.

    Thanks!
    '63 Lark Custom, 259 v8, auto, child seat

    "Your friendly neighborhood Studebaker evangelist"

  • #2
    I'm no professional, but this is how I have done it.
    I have an old (huge) floor jack that I got from my Dad. I jack up the front of the car and put jack stands under the frame just behind the A frames.
    I then lowered the car onto them, My next move was to remove the front wheels. Then I placed the jack under the wide part of the A frame where it bolts to the frame. My next move was to wrap a chain under the jack and over the car frame and then run the jack up to the mounting bar and jack the car back up until the chain is tight. I then remove the four bolts and lower the jack. The A frame opens up and when the jack is lowered all the way, I can get the old spring out. I use a pair of coil spring compressors to squish the new spring, put it in place and jack the A frame back up. Just before I get all the way up, I use two punches to align the bolt holes and jack it tight. Then I put one bolt in each side, pull the punches, install the other two bolts and tighten up all four. I then go to the other side and repeat. (You might want to compress the old springs before removal as well).
    After all is back in place, drive it for a week & then go to the alignment shop.'The reason I use the chain is... one time the entire car jumped up from the spring tension & the car fell off the jack stands... I ESCAPED THAT ONE BUT DON'T WANT TO PUSH MY LUCK AGAIN!

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    • #3
      Jim

      If you have a torch, cut the old springs. If not, I use the jack under the A-frame method. The downside is getting the lower knuckle apart. I've had them come easily with spring pressure and as bad as beating the heck out of the with a brass hammer.

      What ever you do, loosen the king pin nut in increments. Let the jack down enough to give a little slack and get the knuckle moving. Continue slowly until the knuckle come free and then lower the jack and the spring will fall out.

      If you cut them, leave the shock on to contain the coils. If you lower it, you can run a chain through the coil and A-arms but leave enough slack so you can remove the nut but short enough to contain the coil if something go wrong.

      The first one I did took a lot of effort and I expended my 70 years of foul language on it. The other side just slid off, you never know.

      Bob

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      • #4
        I remove the front shocks and use a lenth of fine threaded rod in its place , use washers or heavy steel plates and tighten
        I remove the 4 bolts from the lower control arm and loosen the nut on the threaded rod .
        Grease the threads on the threaded rod!
        You can also replace the 4 bolts on the lower control arm by taking two of them out and replacing them with a long threaded rod
        and then replace the other two with threaded rod and loosen the nuts slowly and evenly.
        I stripped out many junk Studebaker that way safely.
        Do not attempt this if you are an idiot. (legal warning)
        Robert Kapteyn.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Deaf Mute View Post
          .'The reason I use the chain is... one time the entire car jumped up from the spring tension & the car fell off the jack stands... I ESCAPED THAT ONE BUT DON'T WANT TO PUSH MY LUCK AGAIN!
          okay, have not removed springs yet, but will be soon, and have read lots of old posts on the topic. I will be taking the lower knuckle apart first, instead of the a-arm as directed by the service manual for this very reason...as sals54 has stated over and over again, this method means NOT having to be under the car when removing springs...that's what sold me. cheers, junior.
          sigpic
          1954 C5 Hamilton car.

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          • #6
            sals54

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            • #7
              It's always a good idea to loosen the bolts on the lower "A" arm rubber bushings so they don't tear when the "A" arms are dropped, otherwise you might turn the 2 hour method into a 2 day method. Don't forget to retighten them once the car back on the ground. Also, if you have a good air hammer you will find it invaluable for removing the lower knuckle. There should be a counterbore in the bottom of the kingpin to prevent damaging the threads. I ground down an air chisel point to fit the counterbore and pulled the knuckle apart in seconds, spent more than 45 futile minutes of upside down hammering with a sledge hammer and drift punch to no avail.

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              • #8
                Thanks guys for all the input so far.

                I think getting the old ones off will be a walk in the park, as they have extenders in them and even with that the car looks like a low rider. I'm getting tired of bottoming out at every car wash and speed bump I pass! It's more the getting the new one on that I'm hesitant about.

                If I rent a pair of spring compressors from the auto part store, will that get them bundled up enough that I'm not going to have to fight to reconnect the lower knuckle?

                Also, I was reminded in this thread that I probably aught to buy a pair of shocks as well, so thanks for that!!
                '63 Lark Custom, 259 v8, auto, child seat

                "Your friendly neighborhood Studebaker evangelist"

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                • #9
                  I was going to ask this very question rather soon myself. From what I have read you either lower the A-arm at the inner pivot (four bolts), or at the lower kingpin (one nut). Assuming the nut comes off rather easily I'd opt for the lower kingpin method (wiring up the kingpin/upper A-arm/drum so they don't fall). For re-installment you are only attempting to align the un-sprung upper A-arm/kingpin to the lower A-arm.

                  With removing the inner A-arm bolts you are fighting to move the sprung lower A-arm and having to hit four targets (all be it the last two are likely not too difficult). And, as stated that needs to be done under the car.

                  OK, I'm speaking theory here because I have never done it myself. And, if I'm reading right, now I'm hearing it may take hammer blows to slide the lower A-arm off the kingpin??? From what I had read before it just slide out??? Anyway, I too would appreciate hearing any feedback. Ironically, unlike Jim (sorry Jim) I weigh a "mere" 160 pounds and the SBC and 700R4 have taken about 150 pounds off my front end. My car sits too high and the spring seem too stiff. I'm not going to use the Moog CC655, but the actual variable rate springs GM installed in the cars that the CC655's are replacements for (1986 Le Sabre in my case). They have a lower rating and I'm hoping they will work with my reduced front end weight.

                  Tom
                  '64 Lark Type, powered by '85 Corvette L-98 (carburetor), 700R4, - CASO to the Max.

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                  • #10
                    Tom,

                    Maybe the best solution for the ride height issue is to eat more? Fast food places run specials all the time, you know
                    '63 Lark Custom, 259 v8, auto, child seat

                    "Your friendly neighborhood Studebaker evangelist"

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                    • #11
                      ......I guess I will always be in the quiet minority here: I have done many replacements using the shop book procedure......piece of cake....

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                      • #12
                        Posted by JimC

                        I think getting the old ones off will be a walk in the park, as they have extenders in them and even with that the car looks like a low rider. I'm getting tired of bottoming out at every car wash and speed bump I pass! It's more the getting the new one on that I'm hesitant about.
                        Jim

                        I think you will be surprised at how much energy remains in the old springs. Treat them with caution. Replacing them is much less exciting than removing them. If you want to use a spring compressor, go for it, but I've never used one on the install.


                        Bob

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                        • #13
                          I just replaced mine last weekend, not a bad job, I put the jack under the A arm and took out the 4 bolts from the cross member. I didn't use a spring compressor. I did use a chain to keep things in check. you're really not any more under the car with this method than the other. you're just under the front bumper instead of the fender. when your lowering the A-arm you're out at the end of the jack. if the spring is going to try to go anywhere it's going in towards the under side of the car instead of at you. when you're looking at shocks, get the Gabriel 82087 they bolt right in, I read that 77 Camaro shocks would work and that's what I got and had to change the bottom mount with the one from the old shock (PITA) oh yea and you can't get the front end up too high, I have 12 ton jack stands and put them all the way up and think I had just enough room to get the old springs out. so not really a bad job, just be carefull
                          Last edited by guyina4x4; 11-21-2013, 05:48 PM.
                          Not studes right now

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                          • #14
                            Bob Kapteyn does it the same as I. Never any problems. I use a new all thread every two cars, or 4 uses. Make sure it is a good thread with no nicks or rust. Put the all thread where the shock mounts with steel plates under to hold large washers and nuts. I add a second nut an inch or so away from the first, in case an inferior nut strips out. Take the outer kingpin nut off the lower spindle mount,after the all thread is snugged up just a turn or two. All you have to do then is loosen the nuts and slowly release the tension.
                            slicker than snot!
                            Bez Auto Alchemy
                            573-318-8948
                            http://bezautoalchemy.com


                            "Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln

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                            • #15
                              My .02 worth? Having done it both ways, I prefer separating the lower A-arm at the bottom of the king pin, removing the shock first. Car on solid jack stands, with enough room for the lower A-arm to swing to at least a 45 degree droop. Wrap a piece of heavy wire around the spindle and over the knob at the top of the kingpin so the steering knuckle doesn't fall off it. Have new O-rings or seal for the steering knuckle on hand; you will need them. Also, if the lower inner A-arm bushings are old, now is the time to change them.

                              My reason for doing it this way? If you have your floor jack under the A-arm, and remove the bolts anchoring the A-arm inner shaft to the frame, there are really no constraints any more on either lateral or fore-and-aft movement of the A-arm. Spring pressure, a few hundred pounds of it, pushing down on a wheeled jack, and that jack becomes like a watermelon seed held between your thumb and finger, a projectile looking for a place to fly. This is one job where it is an actual advantage to work on the grass or in gravel. But if you undo the lower nut on the kingpin instead, the A-arm is still constrained by the inner shaft, and can only swing down in an arc. Even if the jack slips, you know where it's going to go, and you can stay out of Harm's way. And yes, you should loosen the bolts on the inner A-arm bushings so the rubber doesn't get torn, if they bushings appear to be good, and you don't plan to replace them.

                              Honestly though, if you are getting into it this far, you might as well replace the inner bushings, and service or replace the kingpin bearings and the outer trunnions and bushings while you are at it. It's a 50 year old car, now. Remember that the shop manual procedures were written with a view to replacing broken parts on fairly new cars, where it could be expected that the surrounding parts were still serviceable. And the job was to be done quickly, to keep the customer happy. For those of us working on our own, on a car that's most likely not our primary means of transport, it makes more sense to use the access opportunity afforded by the spring replacement to also replace other old, worn and tired parts that we have to handle anyway. So it makes for a longer job, but you are already committed to doing the single toughest part of it; might as well spend some more money, and some more time, and buy the peace of mind that comes with knowing that you won't probably have to deal with front end problems for another 50 years.
                              Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

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