Engine: My 52 champ what would you do? rebuild or not?

[Edsel G. Tattooer]

Ok This car has sat for almost 50 years. It only has 65k original miles on it.
I have my disc brakes in and working and the engine runs pretty good. Then I find out it over heats after running for a bit so I replaced the thermostat and water pump to make sure they were ok after that long wait to drive.

I'm now guessing I have a head gasket leak. I also need to replace a few leaky frost plugs. and have the radiator repaired for a few small cracks.

All of which is no big deal to fix.

My question is Im thinking of pulling the engine and having it rebuilt. Just to clean it up and fix the issues so I'm not surprised later with other issues later.

What can I expect to pay for a rebuild? I also will go with a higher compression head and bigger valves.

Does anyone know a good Studebaker knowledgeable, re builder in the Minneapolis Mn area?

[junior]

I'm thinking I'd start with a compression and leak-down test, and then go from there. If it really only has 65K miles on it, and checks out fine, why go to the trouble and expence of a rebuild, why not just do what needs doing. Cheers, Junior.

[Edsel G. Tattooer]

I'm thinking I'd start with a compression and leak-down test, and then go from there. If it really only has 65K miles on it, and checks out fine, why go to the trouble and expense of a rebuild, why not just do what needs doing. Cheers, Junior.

Thanks Junior I plan on getting the radiator fixed asap then get the test done I want to seal the leaks first.

[jclary]

Well...since you are only soliciting opinions...my approach would be to drop the oil pan, inspect the lower engine components. On top, I'd pull the valve covers and check the condition of the valve train. If I found a heavy build up of sludge, scored bearings, sloppy clearances...then I'd probably pull the engine and begin a rebuild. My approach to a rebuild is probably very different to an educated mechanic. I have to have the shop manual, and a good chair. That's because I do this stuff so infrequently, I have to "retrain" myself each time. The chair gives me a comfortable place to sit, read, and contemplate my next move. However, I have just enough curiosity, adventurous spirit, and (over) confidence to tackle the job. I partly blame my mother for this. Believe it or not...I actually recall her telling me, when I was 5-years-old (1949), "if you learn to read, and follow directions, you can do anything."

If you do not feel you have the mechanical skills, time, or tools...then, there are several competent mechanics who post here, who might take the job on. Hopefully, some of them will post. I'm sure their opinions will have much more competent weight than mine.

As far as that running hot problem. You have probably been around the forum long enough to have read stories from others about the big "flush routine" some of these old engine blocks require after years of settled core sand, rusting core wire, corrosion, etc. have combined to create a "witches brew" of flow restricting gunk. Seems like, regardless of what else you do, that will be mandatory.

Oh...I forgot to mention (confess)...I'm also too cheap to pay anybody else to do my repairs.

All the best in resolving this issue.

[Edsel G. Tattooer]

If you do not feel you have the mechanical skills, time, or tools...then, there are several competent mechanics who post here, who might take the job on. Hopefully, some of them will post. I'm sure their opinions will have much more competent weight than mine.

As far as that running hot problem. You have probably been around the forum long enough to have read stories from others about the big "flush routine" some of these old engine blocks require after years of settled core sand, rusting core wire, corrosion, etc. have combined to create a "witches brew" of flow restricting gunk. Seems like, regardless of what else you do, that will be mandatory.

Great suggestions! I back flushed the water jackets and new hoses every where. Seems to have good water flow.
I did forget to mention its a flat 6.

[Corvanti]

just to rule it out, are you going by the temp gauge regarding the overheating?

[Edsel G. Tattooer]

No Kerry, I am not I'm going by the clouds of steam from under the hood.

[Edsel G. Tattooer]

No Kerry, Not to be a smart ass but, I'm going by the clouds of steam from under the hood.

[Corvanti]

No Kerry, Not to be a smart ass but, I'm going by the clouds of steam from under the hood.

ok, i figured as much.

i was kinda asking for other folks that are just starting out in this and only going by a bad gauge or sending unit. sorry...

[Edsel G. Tattooer]

I didnt think of the newbees thanks for thinking of that.

[jackb]

.....couple points: simply back flushing your cooling system will do nothing to the accumulated gunk down low in the back of the block....If you don't clean that out, it'll get hot down there and raise cain with those back cylinders......also.....I just dropped a 289 from a 63' Cruiser into a 62' wagon. The temp gage for 3 years in the Cruiser read 160 degrees at all times. Despite that, when I pulled the engine, I pulled the plugs out and flushed the daylights out of the lower block til clear water ran.....Installed the engine in the 62' with it's own dash temp gage = 180 degrees on the gage at all times......go figure....gages can vary....