Carb overhaul

[Gordy911]

going to have to overhaul the 2bbl stromberg on the 62 hawk. Got the kit looks pretty straight forward but dont have info on number of turns etc and the jets.I havent taken it apart yet wondering if I should take it to shop to do or can I do it myself with some guidance from the group?

62 GT Hawk
84 vette
31 Ford Pickup

[Swifster]

Gordy, you should be able to do the overhaul yourself. Harbor Freight sells a small parts cleaner that you can use to soak the carb housings over night. Most FLAPS have carb cleaner in a one gallon can which will be enough for the cleaner container.

Carb kits wil come (or should anyways) with disassembly and reassembly instructions. Some go over adjustments and some do not. Do you have a copy of the service manual yet? Definitely worth while. If you don't, e-mail me and I'll sent the necessary section as a pdf.

As for the idle screws, I normally will turn these in until they stop, noting how many turns it takes to get there. If I turn left and it's 3/4 of a turn to bottom out, I'll note this so I can start at this setting. Do this with both idle screws. I know the carb I sent you ran decent a few months back when the engine was pulled, so I wouldn't mess with the side linkages unless you really need to. As Alabama and Florida don't have a great variance in altitute, I don't think the carb will need to be rejetted. Of course, if you are closer to the mountains than I thought, this might be necessary too.

In the early '80's before everything I owned had EFI, I was told (and instructed) about the lien drop procedure to setting idle speed. After all these years I've forgot the process. At that time my one barrel Carter was set this way for my '62 Lancer and it ran great. The Carter AVS on my '71 Fury was done by a friend of mine who worked at Holley, including the final tune. I still have my trade school stuff somewhere, and if I can find the process I mentioned above, I'll sent that to you too.

EDIT: After soaking the carb, let it air dry. If the carb really looks dirty in the fuel bowl, you might want to use some very light compressed air (like that used to clean your computer - in the can) to make sure none of the dirt stays in the bleeds or orifaces.

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Tom - Valrico, FL

1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $1755.45)

[Gordy911]

I am going to give it a try the carb seemed to have some gasket dried out when i installed it and fired it it ran pretty good for about a min but would not excellerate it would stall. Then I notice gas was seeping out of the gaskets nearest the air cleaner. So thought while i am working on it would rebuild it then start from there as gaskets do dry out.Thanks for the assistance if I run into trouble will give you a holler.. did find some info on turning the jets down then back out 1 1/4 turn so will see where there set at and try to maintain that if close to spec.

62 GT Hawk
84 vette
31 Ford Pickup

[blackhawk]

quote:Originally posted by Gordy911

I am going to give it a try the carb seemed to have some gasket dried out when i installed it and fired it it ran pretty good for about a min but would not excellerate it would stall. Then I notice gas was seeping out of the gaskets nearest the air cleaner. So thought while i am working on it would rebuild it then start from there as gaskets do dry out.Thanks for the assistance if I run into trouble will give you a holler.. did find some info on turning the jets down then back out 1 1/4 turn so will see where there set at and try to maintain that if close to spec.

62 GT Hawk
84 vette
31 Ford Pickup

Gordy,

I always found these carbs fairly easy to rebuild and adjust. Give it a go if so inclined.

After you take the top cover off the carb, lay a straight edge across the mating surfaces of the top cover to make sure it is not bowed. The covers on the Stromberg carbs often warp. If the cover is bowed it will not press down evenly on the gasket. This sometimes causes a vacuum leak. You can carefully file down the high spots to make the cover seal better if it is bowed.

Don't bottom out the idle screws too tightly or you will damage the seat.

I usually adjust the idle this way: 1st back out the mechanical stop so the engine idles slow. Then adjust the idle screws one at a time. Turn the idle screw in (clockwise), leaning it out, until you hear the engine idle change (rough idle). Then turn the screw out (counterclockwise), enriching the mixture, and the idle will smooth out. Keep going until the engine idle changes because it is too rich. Midway between those two end points should be pretty close to where it needs to be and you should be able to hear the difference (engine idles smoothly). Do the same with the other adjustment screw. If you can't make the engine idle worse at either extreme then the carb is either leaking (gaskets not sealing) or some of the passages did not come clean.

Dale

[Gordy911]

Thanks for the info Dale will start on it tonight.

62 GT Hawk
84 vette
31 Ford Pickup