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62 Lark, how rusty and where rusty is bad?

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  • 62 Lark, how rusty and where rusty is bad?

    OK, so I went to look at a 56 commander today, 2 hour drive one way, waste of time and gas. looked on CL before heading back and found a 62 Lark about 30 more miles away, so why not. I really like this Lark, it looks ok up close, under side is pretty rusty, the main frame seems pretty solid but all the outriggers are completely rotted away, the rockers have been replaced and look ok although you can see up behind the rocker into the fender where the back window is when the window is down. also there has been some rivet patches in the trunk corners and both door openings have little bondo patches in the corners. also I'd guess most of the floor will need replaced, there are no holes to fall into but not very solid, the driver door sticks out a little funny on the bottom and the drivers front fender has rust right at the bottom. I've got some pics of it, not very good ones but best I could get from laying on the ground. I should also mention it does run and drive and stop, though it smokes pretty good when started and doesn't really idle. it has the OHV 6 in it with a 3 speed, no OD. he's asking $3500 but is willing to negotiate, which I think he needs to come down quite a bit. it does have a brand new water pump and he rebuilt the steering column shifting mechanism, oh and a brand new battery, new cap, wires and plugs, he also has 4 Stude hubcaps and a spare tire and a parts carb, what do ya think? Scott
    Not studes right now

  • #2
    Did you look under the floor mats? While most people look under the car, the real story is under the mats. Even here in sunny So.Cal. we have our share or rust issues. Water gets in, gets under the carpet and or mats and just keeps the floor saturated with water. From under the car it may have surface rust, but inside often the threads in the padding is all that is holding it together.

    This car is appealing from the top side. But the further down you go, the more scary it gets.

    Tom
    '64 Lark Type, powered by '85 Corvette L-98 (carburetor), 700R4, - CASO to the Max.

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    • #3
      I agree with Tom. Unless you are good at welding, I'd stay away from this car, very far! I just went through this on my 63 Cruiser and the further I went the worse it got. If all the outrigger and rear mounts in the trunk are gone, that only leaves two mounts directly under the frame and the mount on the rear cross member. The funny door angle is probably from the body sagging and distorting. This car sounds more like a $ 400.00 parts car!

      Brian

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      • #4
        This is not a good sign:



        That should be closed in to hold up the front cowl of the car - that bottom part completely gone because of rust is not something you want to see...

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        • #5
          Just make your mind up to buy a car without major rust issues. The prices you are talking will buy a rust free specimine.
          sigpicAnything worth doing deserves your best shot. Do it right the first time. When you're done you will know it. { I'm just the guy who thinks he knows everything, my buddy is the guy who knows everything.} cheers jimmijim*****SDC***** member

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          • #6
            Originally posted by 62champ View Post
            This is not a good sign:



            That should be closed in to hold up the front cowl of the car - that bottom part completely gone because of rust is not something you want to see...
            well I am pretty good with a welder but I was thinking this may require body off frame. the more I've thought about it, the more I think I'll just pass on this one. it's going to be tough to find a not so rusty one here in Illinois. thanks for the level headed thinking, glad I waited for it instead of jumping in. Scott
            Not studes right now

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            • #7
              I seriously don't think that car is worth 20% of his asking price.
              Oglesby,Il.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by 52hawk View Post
                I seriously don't think that car is worth 20% of his asking price.
                I left there thinking maybe??, I think because I actually got to ride/drive it, first actual ride/drive in a Lark. it was awesome! I'm pretty sure I was grinning from ear to ear with both thumbs WAY up. I am very impressed with the six and a stick, I bet a v8 and stick is a real sweet ride there is a 61 Lark just down the street from me, V8 auto, NOT for sale, I wonder if I can talk him into a ride/drive?
                Not studes right now

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                • #9
                  As Jim said, $3500 would buy you a decent rust-free 6 cyl Lark.
                  Proud NON-CASO

                  I do not prize the word "cheap." It is not a badge of honor...it is a symbol of despair. ~ William McKinley

                  If it is decreed that I should go down, then let me go down linked with the truth - let me die in the advocacy of what is just and right.- Lincoln

                  GOD BLESS AMERICA

                  Ephesians 6:10-17
                  Romans 15:13
                  Deuteronomy 31:6
                  Proverbs 28:1

                  Illegitimi non carborundum

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                  • #10
                    Yeah, I agree with Bob. For that price, you can get one that won't require a frame swap

                    Clark in San Diego | '63 Standard (F2) "Barney" | http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

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                    • #11
                      If you live in Illinois, I think you will find it is well worth it to look for a more South Western Car, after you pay $1000.00 to $1,500.00 shipping, you will still be Thousands ahead by finding a non-rust belt Car.

                      Before Bob Andrews reminds me that they are not all perfect, I will say having a fellow member check them out is also beneficial because Western Cars that have been near the Pacific Ocean or in other damaging conditions CAN have considerable RUST!

                      Are you really SET on a 6 Cyl. Car? Your desires are Number ONE...BUT:
                      IMHO, when it comes to Studebaker Sixes, the only ones I would consider are '48 to '50 Commander 245 Sixes or '51 to '60 "245" Stude. Trucks.

                      The best of luck to you, if I can check one out in the Pacific Northwest, let me know.
                      Most of the good ones up here, have either always been Garaged or brought up from Calif.
                      Last edited by StudeRich; 09-21-2013, 07:57 PM.
                      StudeRich
                      Second Generation Stude Driver,
                      Proud '54 Starliner Owner
                      SDC Member Since 1967

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                      • #12
                        Corn flake rust

                        The above photo is serious rust. The type I call corn flake. No need to get involved with cars that have issues as such. Generally. most everything else body and interior wise will be trash. Go where you can and do what others do to find a good car to start with. Have it shipped. Shipping is a whole lot cheaper than fixing up a rust bucket. I ain't LION. cheers jimmijim
                        Originally posted by guyina4x4 View Post
                        well I am pretty good with a welder but I was thinking this may require body off frame. the more I've thought about it, the more I think I'll just pass on this one. it's going to be tough to find a not so rusty one here in Illinois. thanks for the level headed thinking, glad I waited for it instead of jumping in. Scott
                        Last edited by jimmijim8; 09-22-2013, 01:44 AM.
                        sigpicAnything worth doing deserves your best shot. Do it right the first time. When you're done you will know it. { I'm just the guy who thinks he knows everything, my buddy is the guy who knows everything.} cheers jimmijim*****SDC***** member

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                        • #13
                          A freind of mine was just in wa. state and told me that he saw a lark. Clean and rust free running down the street with a for sale sign with $1500 on it.

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                          • #14
                            Spend your money on this one.... Enjoy a Colorado vacation and drive it home. Unless you really enjoy hanging out under a welding helmet there are good cars out there. I've seen this one. It was actually at C Springs semi-finished and is now even more complete. I'd own it for my daily driver if my car cash wasn't all going to the Speedster restore.... NE Colorado just off I-76.

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                            • #15
                              I think you might want to join your local SDC chapter. There'll be lots of nice folks who would be happy to take you for a ride in their Studebakers and let you get a chance to get an idea of the different cars available before you decide to buy one. Talk to them about what they like about their cars and the repairs and maint. they've done. Studebaker made cars and trucks for 2/3 of the last century, find out what you would really like before you buy one.
                              Good Luck!

                              Brian

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