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  • Color tomorrow ??

    2 coats Epoxy primer, 2 coats High build primer, 220 grit dry sanded and dings addressed, 2 coats surfacer and 600 grit wet blocked once. Once more over it in the AM and just maybe color tomorrow or Monday... (shell only)!

    Started one fender patch and waiting on delivery from CE of other one and hood stiffeners. Plenty of fill and repair time on the front clip till they arrive.

    Thanks 61Lark. I had 60 days till decision time between stay stock or fabricate new steering/shift method. Stock will be much simpler and save several days on the Gantt chart.

    Frame Done.
    Body in process.
    Anxious to get to mechanical.

  • #2
    Merlin,seems like you're moving along at a good clip.I'd really like to see lots of pics of the shell once painted,including the floor pan and trunk floor.
    Joseph R. Zeiger

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    • #3
      '63-T... I'm as anxious as you to see the color on. That Pimlico Gray is my first go at a metalic and this stuff looks wierd in the can... looks like a mixture of water and oil ......so I hope there are pictures I'm happy to share. I'm a gamer so it should be good.

      It's got to be totally done no later than January because I have a serous commitment for the rest of 2014. We're on schedule.
      Last edited by mmagic; 09-07-2013, 06:55 PM.

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      • #4
        You make it look easy Merlin, can't wait to finished project, not like any of us have to wait too long.

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        • #5
          GT... Build it on paper first... one more plug for the Gantt chart... and from there on it's like a paint by numbers kit. It also helps to start with a very straight AZ car with no rust compromised exterior body panels other than rocker panels and front fender clips, readily available from CE. Other than a dozen stone size or parking lot dings so minor as to need body putty instead of Bondo and one shallow rear quarter scrape crease the body is a sand and paint job.

          To this point the biggest annoyance has been all the dirt that had to be removed to find the car.
          Click image for larger version

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          It isn't good enough to eat an elephant one bite at a time. You have to know which bite to take first.

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          • #6
            will your exterior trim and chrome fit with all that paint & prep covering ?? specifically: will the clips purchase and keep in their holes with the new thickness ???

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            • #7
              Anytime I had painted a metallic color I would always put a couple of (new) nuts in the gun to help keep the metallic agitated. Perhaps it's overkill but it can't hurt.
              59 Lark wagon, now V-8, H.D. auto!
              60 Lark convertible V-8 auto
              61 Champ 1/2 ton 4 speed
              62 Champ 3/4 ton 5 speed o/drive
              62 Champ 3/4 ton auto
              62 Daytona convertible V-8 4 speed & 62 Cruiser, auto.
              63 G.T. Hawk R-2,4 speed
              63 Avanti (2) R-1 auto
              64 Zip Van
              66 Daytona Sport Sedan(327)V-8 4 speed
              66 Cruiser V-8 auto

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              • #8
                Originally posted by jackb View Post
                will your exterior trim and chrome fit with all that paint & prep covering ?? specifically: will the clips purchase and keep in their holes with the new thickness ???
                Good question.. I have numerous clip issues to begin with on pot metal parts that will likely need to be resolved with adhesive. If I have to re-drill and re-treat stainless attachment clips so be it.

                Jackb-- I'm listening and that sounds like as good an idea as any I've had. One of the biggest reasons I continue to post about my project is for comments like yours and ideas. If my amateur approach deserves a, "that was stupid" maybe it will help the next guy.

                As for the latter, I had a miserable time with my high build primer. I was on the low side with my tip size, didn't strain it, was spraying in 95 degree temps and hadn't adequately cleaned my gun at last usage. The result was that 30 minute pot life and poor flow was more like 15 minutes and it was setting up in my gun! Replay addressing these mistakes and with a little reducer added and it laid down like it should.

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                • #9
                  Merlin,
                  You make a very important point in many of the (great) threads you have been posting on the restoration of your Speedster. A point that I hope is not missed on those here contemplating or starting a build (stock or modified).

                  That is, HAVE A DETAILED PLAN. Maybe it doesn't have to be a formal Gantt Chart (or Microsoft Project), but a DETAILED plan prior to removing the first bolt will help avoid much frustration and unwelcome surprises.

                  Like you, the rest of us need to visually and mentally go through the car system by system and determine what it is going to need to get to the finished product we have in mind, then put it down on paper. It needs to be done at a relatively fine level of detail and conservatively (both time and money) to avoid disappointments. There are far more incomplete and abandoned projects out there than completed ones, and I think the lack of a detailed plan is the main reason.

                  Along with the plan, should be a budget. Not a budget in the sense of what you would LIKE to spend, but a realistic one for the project plan you developed taking into account your personal skills and what you will have to "farm out". It should include actual prices for the parts you will need and the labor you will subcontract.

                  It takes time and research to do this, and is generally not a "fun" part of the project for many. It may also be somewhat discouraging to see the amount of hours and dollars you will need to devote to the car, but at least you will know what you are up against. If it doesn't look possible once the plan and budget are developed, you can decide to buy a completed car (they are generally less expensive than doing one yourself), you can revise your end goal (maybe a nice driver is just fine for right now rather than a show car), you can revise your original timetable (at least you won't be fooling yourself that the car will be on the road in a few months like you originally thought), you can delay the start of the project until you have more time (and/or money) to devote to it (it's a lot easier to sell a complete and assembled car that needs everything, than one that is torn down and in boxes if you decide not to tackle the project).

                  Any chance you can post (or link to) your Gantt Chart or at least an outline of the nodes you are using as a start for the rest of us in developing our own plans?

                  I'm really enjoying your build threads. Keep them coming!
                  Dick Steinkamp
                  Bellingham, WA

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                  • #10
                    Dick ..Thanks for the comment. You make my point better than I have.

                    I'd add one more thought... STAY IN A BREED ! I finished and flipped at least a dozen relatively minor issue Cherokees some of which I bought for dirt because someone lost interest but when the parts are in a box and you know the breed you have some idea where they go back and where to get what isn't there. For this reason when I switched to Studebakers I did the Champ first as a learn the breed experience although the Speedster was in storage and was motivation to get the Champ on the road. Unlike the Speedster, the Champ was a truck and didn't have to be perfect.

                    Because there is a plan, I've been acquiring needed goodies over time. First a Good center grill, then a better center grill and now a great center grill... the others will ebay soon. Ditto the hood ornament. I've had a little missing steering column issue with options evolving from find one for an early Saginaw PS box, to find and modify a manual one to adapt a GM box and PS unit. 60 days out from the absolutely must act point by the chart, 61Lark posted on the board a suitable adaptation and I was all over it.

                    As for the Gantt, my main catagories are:

                    Purchases
                    Disassemble and Evaluate
                    Frame & Underside
                    Body
                    Mechanical
                    Electrical
                    Interior
                    Chrome and Stainless

                    I use a program from Ganttproject.biz, a free open source item. I'll gladly email a copy to anyone who PM's an ask. The Chart looks like this:
                    Click image for larger version

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                    • #11
                      All right I'll look into making a Gant chart. Seems like it could work for really any project. My plans have changed a lot since I've seriously looked into getting this project done. I've come to realize if I over think everything on my budget, it'll never see the road. But if I underthink too many things it won't even be worth hitting the road with. As for any mocking of your amateur methods. I bet most who would mock you either have never restored a car, or have done so for twice to three times the money farming most of the work and likely will have as much fun with the finished project. I think most real hard working car guys would respect your get it done attitude And way.

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                      • #12
                        keep up the great work!
                        Kerry. SDC Member #A012596W. ENCSDC member.

                        '51 Champion Business Coupe - (Tom's Car). Purchased 11/2012.

                        '40 Champion. sold 10/11. '63 Avanti R-1384. sold 12/10.

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                        • #13


                          Thank you Merlin,
                          Charlie D.

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