Brakes: New meaning to bleed the brakes...

[mmagic]

I'm embarrassed to think I've flared copper and steel tubing for 50 years and did such a lousy job on these brake lines.

Of 25 possible flare fails, at least 15 of them were initial leakers... I expected 1 or 2 when under pressure, not more than half! I'm probably down to a half dozen after 4 hours. I'd like to blame that loaner flair tool but I was the first user so I can only accept it as operator error.

[Tom Bredehoft]

Because of that problem (leaking flares) I chose to use pre-made tubing. I have a couple of extra loops, here and there, but no leakers.

[53commander]

Don't be too hard on yourself, if its a "loaner" from a parts store then its probably one of those cheap Chinese tools. I seen a lot of problems with those. I use a Snap On one and its perfect every time.

[sweetolbob]

Don't be too hard on yourself, if its a "loaner" from a parts store then its probably one of those cheap Chinese tools. I seen a lot of problems with those. I use a Snap On one and its perfect every time.

I agree, a lot of the bare steel tubing available over the last few years seems kinda brittle and hard to flare. My luck is somewhat better than yours but on the 74 I chose the advice above and went with the new coated steel pre-made tubing. Like Tom, I have a few "vibration damping bends" but it's all in and I don't think I've got more than $30 in it. The newer stuff just bends great either with a bender, around a steel cylinder or by hand.

Bob

[acolds]

I used a v belt pulley kind with 4 or 5 different diameters on as used to change speed on some home saws or lathes had good luck getting nice kink free bends

[52hawk]

Sorry I have to ask,but you did use a DOUBLE flair tool?? I did all mine with a Snap-on flair tool,and had no leakers.[but it did take a few practice rounds on a junk piece of line to get the hang of it]

[63t-cab]

I have a blue point that works spot on.I always make certain all burs and such are scraped and filed from inside the tube.and file a bevel to the outer edge,and make sure the exact amount of tube rides out to match the stagger on the button.also make sure the vise IS tight,never had one leak yet.speaking of factory flares,just looked at one the other day and talk about egg shaped !!!

[mmagic]

It was all operator error. He used an inferior loaner kit, didn't set the vice deep enough for first flare, kit left second flare rough and not perfectly square and the inspector gets fired!

Bought a better kit today and the flares look much better. I'm sure they may actually seal!

[SN-60]

I have a blue point that works spot on.I always make certain all burs and such are scraped and filed from inside the tube.and file a bevel to the outer edge,and make sure the exact amount of tube rides out to match the stagger on the button.also make sure the vise IS tight,never had one leak yet.speaking of factory flares,just looked at one the other day and talk about egg shaped !!!

Joe,..Good advice and explanation....Folks really need to be careful with this one...'Almost' certainly doesn't work here! (I also use a Blue-Point flaring kit)

[63t-cab]

Thanks Ed,something else I was taught is when doing the second step only do a 3/4 turn!so that's just how I do it.but have to admit to brain farts,like forgetting to slide the fitting on first or putting it on backwards <G> so I have had to buy extra tubing.

Joe,..Good advice and explanation....Folks really need to be careful with this one...'Almost' certainly doesn't work here! (I also use a Blue-Point flaring kit)

[gordr]

Another tip: find a source for that Cunifer alloy brake line. Non-corrosive, between copper and steel in workability, but much easier than steel. You can make small-radius bends by hand. Just made a pair of lines for a spin-on bypass oil filter to replace rotten rubber lines, and I put a complete 360 bend in each one, making them much easier to align for the install.

[Doug Bowen]

My son works at NAPA and brought me home a roll of Copper/Nickel alloy line (guess they call it "cuni"). Boy did it work nice! Plus, they say it will never rot out. Can't beat that. Put new lines on my '64 Commander last spring with the stuff. We'll see. D

[Warren Webb]

My son works at NAPA and brought me home a roll of Copper/Nickel alloy line (guess they call it "cuni"). D

Do you have the NAPA part # for it Doug & how much did it cost?

[63t-cab]

I was helping my neighbor do a brake job on His Dakota truck,I saw what I thought was copper line."and told Him that's a no no" I'll have to replace that as well ! I soon found out at the parts store that's the copper/nickel alloy line and it does work and bend up nicely.

My son works at NAPA and brought me home a roll of Copper/Nickel alloy line (guess they call it "cuni"). Boy did it work nice! Plus, they say it will never rot out. Can't beat that. Put new lines on my '64 Commander last spring with the stuff. We'll see. D

[52 Ragtop]

I recently bought the double flaring tool from Eastwood, it's not cheap, and will NOT work under the vehicle, but, mounted in a vise I can make a double flare (others too, but I've had no reason to use the other styles) in about 30 seconds. I've used it on stainless tubing and works just as easy and makes a double flare without any leaks.

Jim