On my Daytona, there used to be chrome drip rail mouldings. These get damaged when being removed. What have others used for replacement mouldings. I know there are vinyl ones available, but anything in stainless? Can they be repaired like body side mouldings?
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Drip Rail Mouldings
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99% of the damage found on drip rail moldings is done when they're removed. Best bet is to simply leave them alone, unless you manage to score NOS ones.
They can be repaired, within reason. They're very thin and fragile.. I've had my straightening hammer "stretch" them by using too much force, and have wrapped one or two around the buffing wheel.
As far as replacing them with something other than the original trim, I've never heard of anything.Last edited by mbstude; 07-31-2013, 05:45 PM.
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Even my "Maestro" hates to do them because they truly are a b***h, and he has been in the trade for 32 years.
We will have a new site up soon: https://www.custompolishandchrome.com
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The trick to removing the drip rail is to use a old style beer can opener, the type with one pointed end and a blunt end. Use the blunt end with some tape to protect the stainless. Work slowly and it will not damage the drip rail. Do not use a paint can opener - I learned that myself. Mine is a vintage Hamm's Beer model.
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Originally posted by 5brown1 View PostThe trick to removing the drip rail is to use a old style beer can opener, the type with one pointed end and a blunt end. Use the blunt end with some tape to protect the stainless. Work slowly and it will not damage the drip rail. Do not use a paint can opener - I learned that myself. Mine is a vintage Hamm's Beer model.Tom - Bradenton, FL
1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2514.10)
1964 Studebaker Commander - 170 1V, 3-Speed w/OD
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