Engine: crankshaft bolt

[speedbump]

My first build and I've done lots of searches here and found some great info for the 64 289. Of it's idiosyncracies, the one that amazes me most is the 11/16 x 16 crankshaft bolt. I've read of people being exorted to use a inst. tool when installing the balancer instead of the crank bolt and/or hammer which we probably all did at one time until education and tools caught up. Where does one find an 11/16 x 16 adapter for a balancer installation kit? Mine doesn't have one and the fastener store laughed when I asked for a bolt to make one out of. I made one but what do people do that don't have access to a lathe? As slow as I am, I figure the adapter is worth about $500...but it worked.

[Mike Van Veghten]

I made (had it made!) one out of a Chevy truck wheel stud to fit my puller/pusher tool. A small shop near me did it for me. Not cheap ($50), but it works fine.

Hammering on a Stude crank may damage the connecting rods. The thrust bearing arangement on a Stude is so that until the crank gear is fastened in place, the crank can move quite a bit. And the gear is only a press fit, along with the damper. So, pounding on the damper can actually move the gear from it's correct, as seated location, and bolting the damper in place MAY not put everything back where it's supposed to be.

Mike

[PlainBrownR2]

The crank damper on the 289's is bolted in place by six bolts on the crank hub with a rubber cushion in between. That damper should slide right off once all six nuts are removed(which also holds the pulleys in place as it all sandwiched together). As stated, the gear, and I think the hub, is a whole other story, as those are pressed onto the crankshaft, and a puller will be needed for those.

The crankshaft bolt, believe it or not, is made for an implement socket. I have a set of Williams 3/4 sockets and a 1/2 inch adapter that I use to remove that crankshaft bolt. For most everyone else, one socket is what you'll need to take off the bolt, and maybe one for the nut on the rear axle. Once you get the engine rebuilt, and put it all back together, remember to use the same socket and adapter on your torque wrench to torque the socket back to specification, as the crankshaft bolt has a specific torque spec.

[Alan]

speedb; That is what I did a number of years back. Took a damper installation tool for Chevys I bought a swap meet for $5 since the threads were buggered up. Then took a 3/4" bolt and whittled it down to 11/16"Cut the head off then stepped it down for 7/16" X 14 threads which screwed into the Chev assembly.

[StudeRich]

Or, you could buy a New Crankshaft Bolt from a Studebaker Vendor at: http://studebakervendors.com

[bezhawk]

Or, you could buy a New Crankshaft Bolt from a Studebaker Vendor at: http://studebakervendors.com

I believe the pusher tool we are talking about is much safer than using a bolt to push on the hub. I had a machine shop turn one for my pusher set. I have in the past heated a hub in the oven @ 300 degrees for a half hour before pressing it on. It is a clumsy thing to do with the bolts sticking thru from the back side.

[speedbump]

Bought all my stuff from Studebakerparts.com. Looked but didn't see a crank bolt, so didn't know the price to decide whether I'd be willing to cut one up to make an adapter. Cutting the threads on the lathe was costly in terms of hours, but having it actually fit when I was done.....priceless!

[SScopelli]

Bought all my stuff from Studebakerparts.com. Looked but didn't see a crank bolt, so didn't know the price to decide whether I'd be willing to cut one up to make an adapter. Cutting the threads on the lathe was costly in terms of hours, but having it actually fit when I was done.....priceless!

For $59 you can buy this:



from https://www.studebakerparts.com/stud...age=tools.html

[speedbump]

Nice. Didn't think to look in tools. That tool is what I have except the crank bolt end has multiple adapters for lots of vehicles...even Studebaker now. Might sound like heresy, but if I was going to do much performance tinkering with one, while I had the crank out, I might be tempted to drill and tap it to 3/4x16 and be done with it.

[Alan]

Looks just like the one I made for less than $10

[Skybolt]

Head bolts for some diesel truck have the same thread pitch and many of them have to be discarded as a one time use only so can be gotten cheap. One can make up the tool out of that, or many other alternatives, but to save time, and eventually money, if one does not have the skill to make it, buying one already made up will serve well if one plans to own Studebakers for a long time.

[55 56 PREZ 4D]

I ran into the same problem when I changed the timing gear on my 55.
I tried to beg borrow or steal a puller or something to make one. Scrounged around my junk pile not finding anything that fit. I looked over parts from my 55 parts car.
The threads on the end of the hand brake guide [bolts up under the dash, the handle/plunger slides in it.] are the correct thread.
I removed the plunger.
I used the nut that came with it and 2 large flat washers with grease between as a bearing.
Pulled the hub on slick as could be.
Free is good.

[Bellingham Studenut]

For $59 you can buy this:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]23713[/ATTACH]

from https://www.studebakerparts.com/stud...age=tools.html

I just used one similar to this last night although it's stepped to center the vibration damper. I bought it from Ted Harbit years ago and works great.
Various pullers work to get the gears off, but you need one made for the pushing if you want it to go easy.
$59 isn't a bad price and will last a lifetime, or sell on the swap page, or ebay after your finished with it.

[Skybolt]

I ran into the same problem when I changed the timing gear on my 55.
I tried to beg borrow or steal a puller or something to make one. Scrounged around my junk pile not finding anything that fit. I looked over parts from my 55 parts car.
The threads on the end of the hand brake guide [bolts up under the dash, the handle/plunger slides in it.] are the correct thread.
I removed the plunger.
I used the nut that came with it and 2 large flat washers with grease between as a bearing.
Pulled the hub on slick as could be.
Free is good.

Good find. I have seen that an off the shelf bolt or nut from a parts store only leads to a hand brake retainer nut like you mentioned. So you might be onto something easily sourced.

[SScopelli]

I just used one similar to this last night although it's stepped to center the vibration damper. I bought it from Ted Harbit years ago and works great.
Various pullers work to get the gears off, but you need one made for the pushing if you want it to go easy.
$59 isn't a bad price and will last a lifetime, or sell on the swap page, or ebay after your finished with it.

This is the tool used to Push on the damper.. Has a real nice bearing that the nut turns on. With the pinch fit the pulley, it went on with no problem..

Since it is your first build, and you mentioned "idiosyncracies" Did you get the main bearing clearance set properly? One of the most over looked steps in the book and can lead to real nasty problems down the road..

When setting the clearance gap on the main bearing I used a round pipe to push against the oil slinger washer, Checks and shimmed accordingly.. When you go to install the damper it will be a one time shot..