Steering: Power steering noise (whine)

[PeterHawk]

Just had the power steering unit on the 1962 GT Hawk, 289 rebuilt. Prior to rebuild, unit did not whine, just leaked from somewhere, not sure but fluid level had to be topped off once a week. After the rebuild the unit whines when turning. During the rebuild the mechanic added type A Lucas fluid, before the rebuild I was using type "F" ATF, red in color. The new fluid appears to be green in color. The mechanic used the Lucas as an additional means for stopping the leaks.

What would cause the whining noise and what type of fluid should I be using. The shop manual suggests lubricating the parts during rebuild with type "A" ATF.

WHAT SHOULD I DO???

[RadioRoy]

Keep driving it for a while. Sometimes a whine is created by air bubbles in the system. It may take a while for the bubbles to rise to the top, which is the reservoir. Keep an eye on the fluid level and top it off as it goes down. It will go down slightly when the bubbles come out.

[Jeff_H]

If it does not clear up after a while (purging of air), consider going back to type F. I have saginaw PS in my '53. Different pump and gear than your GT. It would whine a bit all the time and quite loudly if the engine rpm was high for a while. Coming to a light at a freeway off ramp it was really loud (after other noises were less at idle). I had been running dextron III in it and after changing to type F there was a huge improvement.

[StudeRich]

The Type "A" is an obsolete ATF and no longer needs to be SAE or DOT approved, so it's content and quality is not to standard and should not be used.
The Valvoline Type "F" is a much better fluid to replace the long obsolete Type "A" Trans. Fluid recommended for Power Steering.

[swvalcon]

I've found it helps sometimes to get rid of air from the systems by turning the wheels lock to lock a few times when sitting still with the engine running.

[RadioRoy]

If the mechanic used special fluid to stop the leaks, does that mean there are still leaks in the system as it is now?

Seems like replacing the seals would be a better bet than special fluid, but I have never seen green fluid. I would use Dexron myself.

I gave a family tree of ATF chronology some time back and showed that Dexron was the direct descendant of the old Type A fluid, but that got a ho-hum response and most folks just kept using the kind that they liked best.

[PeterHawk]

Upon further examination, the replacement fluid was red (not green). The gaskets were replaced during the rebuild and I now have a large piece of cardboard under the car to check for leaks. Drove the car to work this morning, drives alright but still has the whine.

If I elect to replace the Lucas fluid with Dextron, is that acceptable or will one react negatively with the other?

The big thing is that the GT Hawk is on the road again after a long winter nap!!!

[RadioRoy]

You might also check the tension on the belt driving the pump. Too loose will make it squeal, which could be called a whine, and too tight will wear out the bearings too quickly - and might make some sort of noise as well.

I know nothing about the Lucas fluid, but you might Google it. My thinking is that the modern fluids were designed for modern systems, whereas our power steering is designed for ATF.

Are there bubbles in the reservoir, is the fluid foamy/milky/pinkish?

Have the leaks been stopped?

It's good to keep the bigger picture in sight - your baby is back on the road again. Good show!

[jackb]

belt adjustment

[JoeHall]

First, I'd take the car back to the mech who "fixed" it. If that produced nothing satisfactory, I'd use something like a "turkey baster" and remove all fluid from the reservoir and refill with STP brand power steering fluid. Then I'd raise both front wheels off the ground and, with engine idling, turn the wheels lock-to-lock about a dozen times. If that seemed to help, I'd empty the reservoir again and refill with STP again, to get as much of the other crap out as possible.

If the above does not help, go to FLAPS and buy a pump for a mid 1960s Mustang (search this NG's archives for part number), and install it.

STP brand is all I have used for around 15 years now. It results in quietest, smoothest operation, without any negative side effects whatsoever. It also tends to leak less than whatever I replace it with.

ABOVE ALL: do not use anything with a sealer additive. It causes seals to swell, and sticky operation.
Joe

[jackb]

I might go a step further and pull the return hose and jimmie it into a receptacle and keep the reservoir up a few times for a complete drain. I'd suspect after a good flushing if you continue with the whining and filling with Dextron (sorry-I have no experience with STP PS fluid)....its likely you've fried the rollers inside the gear vane....Hope not - although there are plenty of Ford PS pumps out there w/ dipstick and rebuild kits......GL

[RadioRoy]

First, I'd take the car back to the mech who "fixed" it.

This is always a popular option that someone usually suggests.

Maybe it's a good idea, but I have always thought if the guy screwed it up the first time, maybe he doesn't have the talent to get it right - ever. Maybe he'll screw it up even worse when you bring it back because he is now under the gun and has not scheduled time for this rework.