Rebuilding a T-96 OD

[Guest]

Thanks to StudeRich for the parts I needed, I've begun the teardown of my 63's tranny and have come to realize without the right kind of snap-ring pliers, the job is nearly impossible. Now I'm trying to drive out the pins for the shift shafts. Tomorrow I'll get a small drift, as the awl's not cutting it.
Is there anything I need to be aware of or maybe something you encountered doing the job that you'd like to pass along to a novice?
I've got the shop manual for my Lark and have the OD parts off. Trying now to get those pins out. Thanks.


Western Washington, USA

[gordr]

Tom, being as I had mostly worked on the older 3-speeds with the short OD housing, one thing I was not aware of was the fact that there is a circlip beneath that big Welch plug on the top of the extension housing. You need to pry out that plug, and then use suitable pliers to compress the ring into the groove on the bearing to withdraw the bearing.

So have a new Welch plug on hand.

Buy good drifts or punches. A lot of the Chinese ones are made of carbon steel, hardened to the point of being brittle. One or two of the good ones, in the sizes you need, beat a whole set of cheap ones in which the ones you need break.

Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

[Guest]

Thanks Gordon, I'll look for USA made punches. Got that welch plug out, did the ring and got the rear cover off. Now have the OD gears soaking in purple degreaser overnight. I just hope and pray it shifts when the project's done. I did notice the first/reverse gear has some chips in a few teeth but no teeth missing. Would it hurt to dremel them smooth?

[StudeRich]

Tom; what you look for on the gears (especially 2nd.)is those small synchronizer teeth about a 1/4" or less long, need to be very pointed, if not the gear is toast even if the main teeth are good!

There is a rear seal in the kit for short tail tranny & long, so the one for short tail is extra, also match up[ the rollers to the old as there is two types in there! Doc will answer questions about the parts and repair work if you email me for his cellphone number. Good Luck! Sorry I am 140 miles away, and don't do house calls!

StudeRich
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA

[gordr]

quote:Originally posted by tomnoller

Thanks Gordon, I'll look for USA made punches. Got that welch plug out, did the ring and got the rear cover off. Now have the OD gears soaking in purple degreaser overnight. I just hope and pray it shifts when the project's done. I did notice the first/reverse gear has some chips in a few teeth but no teeth missing. Would it hurt to dremel them smooth?

Tom, I have done that before. I don't think it can hurt, as long as you don't make the contact area of the teeth so slanted that it creates a wedging force that tries to kick the gears out of mesh. (which is exactly why Rich posted his warning about wear on the synchro blocker teeth)

I would just radius the corners of the chips in an effort to keep the cracks from spreading.

Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

[studebakerkid]

Pay particular attention when you slide the gear clusters in. I don't know what manual you are using but Chiltons has had the install photos screwed up for more that 20 years in their manuals so if you assemble according to their drawings you will wind up with only first and reverse gears

If you car is ugly then it better be fast.....

65 2dr sedan
64 2dr sedan (Pinkie)
61 V8 Tcab
61 Tcab 20R powered
55 Commander Wagon
54 Champion Wagon
46 Gibson Model A

[Guest]

Thanks guys, and Rich don't get me wrong, I'm not running into trouble. Just looking for advice from those who've BTDT. :-) On the rear seal, just figured on using the one that looks closest to the one I removed. Man, that old tranny oil stinks!