Other: Door Striker Plate

[drnittler]

Does anybody know how to adjust the striker plate on my 61 Lark door? The shop manual is not very clear. My door catches on the plate where it becomes hard to open the door. I tried different moving the plate in different places but I must be missing the point, because I can not seem to make any improvement.
The door itself is solid.
Thanks in advance for the help.

[E. Davis]

I'm sure you will get better instructions from forum members but the way I do it is to loosen the striker plate screws just enough so the plate will move under pressure. Slowly close the door and let the door piece move the striker plate into a match. Carefully open the door so as to not move the striker plate from its new position and tighten the screws. Close the door again and and it should align perfectly.

[rockne10]

You do want it tight enough to retain the door in a sealed position before you really "put the screws to 'er!"

[Warren Webb]

My first question would be does the door line up without the striker plate? Many times the door has sagged in the rear from either worn hinges (upper mostly) or the "A" pillar is loosing support from the floor due to rust. Rust in this area is not always seen. Look under the car & notice that the crossmember (or as some call it "the batwing") doesn't go out to the base of the "A" pillar. This area is very prone to rust. Also a front end impact at some time in its history can move the pillar rearward, not enough for a buckle to show but enough for the door to be misaligned. I'm working on a car now that has had a minor collision. Minor enough that the fender is likely repairable but the post has been moved back so that the drivers door closes hard.

Studebaker used shims under the striker to insure correct contact. If the striker is too far back it wont latch correctly & if it's too far forward it will rub against the inside of the latch itself. The door should close smoothly into the striker. It should not move the door into alignment. Also make sure that it isn't adjusted too far out so that it is latching only on the "safety" portion. The safety should latch with the door open about 1/2 inch away from the outer adjoining panel, then latch again on the primary when it is closed all the way. As Rockne said the striker should be snugged enough to hold its position. I then do the final finesse adjustment moving it with a hammer & block of wood......gently, small movements & close the door & check every time. Kneel down so that your eyes are at the same level as the belt line making sure the striker isn't moving the door up or down. Hope this helps.

[drnittler]

I sort of get it. If I get a new strike plate, how do you remove it? It looks impossible to get behind it to take the nuts off. Thanks.

[Warren Webb]

There is a floating nut plate in the pillar post. Just remove the Phillips head screws (3) & replace. If there are shims behind the striker remember to reinstall them with the new one.

[blackhawk]

David, others have done a good job of describing how to adjust the latch. I would just say that if the door is dragging on the striker plate and hard to pull open, then either the latch mechanism on the door is riding up on the striker plate or the striker plate is shimmed so far out that it touches the door and is dragging there. Unless we are misunderstanding your problem, it should be easy to fix by adjusting the striker plate as E. Davis and Warren have described. ~ Dale

[drnittler]

Thanks one and all.
There are no shims.
Don't the nuts fall off in the back if I take the striker plate off?
Thanks.

[rkapteyn]

Thanks one and all.
There are no shims.
Don't the nuts fall off in the back if I take the striker plate off?
Thanks.

No.
There is a nut plate in the door jam that is clipped in and will stay where it is.
Robert Kapteyn

[dpson]

I fiddled around with the latch on my GT Hawk for hours, finally out of frustration I replaced the latch (lock) mechanism in the door with a NOS unit and come to find out it was the culpret. The rotary mechanism wears out and all the adjusting in the world won't fix it.

[drnittler]

Last dumb question.. If I loosen the plate to replace it, I guess the nuts do not fall out?
Abd
How do I get the plate out?
Thanks

[Warren Webb]

If you mean the "nut plate" may I ask why would you need to replace it? Why the need to get it out? Have you stripped the threads? Is your car a 2 or 4 door? Which door striker are you adjusting?

[drnittler]

I would guess that the striker plate is the deal on the door post. If it is worn out wouldn't I need to replace it?
If I move the plate too high up I can not open the door without lifting the door by he handle
If I move the plate too low the door won't catch when it is closed.
I am still at a loss. Thanks for the help.

[Warren Webb]

Sounds like you need to have someone in the club locally adjust it or take it to a body shop & pay to have it done by a professional.

[drnittler]

Ill keep trying.