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  • Washing, & Detailing

    Not to sure if this can be answered here or not. I have a 1955 Studebaker President Speedster that hasn't seen a bath in 20 years or so, but now she is running and driving. I'm wanting to get her all cleaned up and polished for an upcoming car show here in Bakersfield, CA at the end of this month. The NSRA 37th Annual Western Street Rod Nationals at the Kern County Fair Grounds, not sure if anyone will be attending the show with their Studebaker, but I will be their with the Speedster.

    What would be your recommendation on getting the paint cleaned up and getting a nice coat of wax to finish it off?
    I'm the 3rd owner of the vehicle, and is a very proud owner, I have some documents that I have found stating that their was some paint work done in 1991 not sure if that has anything to do with. But I just wanted to put that out their, its the Pimlico Grey/Ivory White two tone paint job.

    Any advise is very appreciative!


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    Dylan
    I own a 1955 Studebaker President "Speedster", sat garaged for 20 years
    pulled it out in January of 2013, she is now a weekend driver around town.
    "Making many miles, and many smiles a long the way".

    sigpic

  • #2
    I like the McGuier's 1,2,3 system. Or polishing compound followed by Carnuba. Turtle wax makes some good products.
    Neil Thornton

    Comment


    • #3
      I would suggest you start off with a warm bucket of Murphy vegetable soap and a nice soft microfiber washing cloth.
      Soak it, wash it gently, and hose it off.
      No harsh detergents, no dishwashing soap.
      Nothing aggressive on decades of dirt and grime.
      Rinse the soft rag a whole bunch.
      Rinse/wash/rinse/wash/rinse....
      You don't want to grind in the dirt or film.
      You want to soften it and rinse it away.

      I like the Murphy's because it is gentle....
      HTIH
      Jeff


      HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

      Jeff


      Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



      Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by DEEPNHOCK View Post
        I would suggest you start off with a warm bucket of Murphy vegetable soap and a nice soft microfiber washing cloth.
        Soak it, wash it gently, and hose it off.
        No harsh detergents, no dishwashing soap.
        Nothing aggressive on decades of dirt and grime.
        Rinse the soft rag a whole bunch.
        Rinse/wash/rinse/wash/rinse....
        You don't want to grind in the dirt or film.
        You want to soften it and rinse it away.

        I like the Murphy's because it is gentle....
        HTIH
        Jeff


        Madge, You're soaking in it!.......
        I would then clay bar the finish and a good non abrasive wax. Avoid waxes that say "cleaner" as they take paint off.
        Bez Auto Alchemy
        573-318-8948
        http://bezautoalchemy.com


        "Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln

        Comment


        • #5


          I see a few Coleman items on the wall behind Your Car. Here are a couple pics of some of My Coleman collection.
          By the way Your car looks great!

          ~Patrick Sammon
          Patrick Sammon

          Comment


          • #6
            Beautiful car! But then again, I'm partial to 55Ks. I have Murphy Oil soap on hand for a number of uses, mostly hardwood, guitars, ect. Never thought of washing my car with it, but now I know. Thanks for the tip.
            Dave Warren (Perry Mason by day, Perry Como by night)

            Comment


            • #7
              Nice car!! All good advice above. Be careful not to get polishing compounds and wax buildup under the edges of the chrome, door locks & handles, door panels, etc. Whatever you do, avoid the temptation to use a power buffer to make it shine. Simichrome works great on the chrome and stainless.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by warrlaw1 View Post
                Beautiful car! But then again, I'm partial to 55Ks. I have Murphy Oil soap on hand for a number of uses, mostly hardwood, guitars, ect. Never thought of washing my car with it, but now I know. Thanks for the tip.
                Jeff: The tip on a new use for Murphy's Irish Soap is appreciated. The previous owners of our home left several bottles of it and now we have an additional use for it. Harsh detergents can remove some of the protective polishes/waxes that you just applied. A friend with a funeral home wanted only water and agitation with a sponge or mitt used to clean off any dirt or dust from his vehicles.
                Last edited by Bob Bryant; 04-04-2013, 07:26 AM.
                "Growing old is mandatory, but growing up is optional." author unknown

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by 63 R2 Hawk View Post
                  Nice car!! All good advice above. Be careful not to get polishing compounds and wax buildup under the edges of the chrome, door locks & handles, door panels, etc. Whatever you do, avoid the temptation to use a power buffer to make it shine. Simichrome works great on the chrome and stainless.
                  This is basic, but good welcome information, thank you. I would like some clarification though on just when you DO use a buffing wheel and polishing compound, if not when the car looks as the OP's does. Just for the washed out, oxidized flat paints or ???

                  Also, I've never used a clay bar, but I've heard it mentioned here and there. If you're supposed to avoid cleaner waxes and harsh detergents what in the world do you do with a block of clay and how is that supposed to be a positive?

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    some clay bar info: http://www.detailedimage.com/Auto-De...uide/Clay-Bar/

                    kits available at your FLAPS, or online.

                    i was sold on clay bars the first time i used one. both on clear coats and when i used it on the '40 Champion's original paint!
                    Kerry. SDC Member #A012596W. ENCSDC member.

                    '51 Champion Business Coupe - (Tom's Car). Purchased 11/2012.

                    '40 Champion. sold 10/11. '63 Avanti R-1384. sold 12/10.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Thank you, that looks like a thorough website.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by LeoH View Post
                        This is basic, but good welcome information, thank you. I would like some clarification though on just when you DO use a buffing wheel and polishing compound, if not when the car looks as the OP's does. Just for the washed out, oxidized flat paints or ???

                        Also, I've never used a clay bar, but I've heard it mentioned here and there. If you're supposed to avoid cleaner waxes and harsh detergents what in the world do you do with a block of clay and how is that supposed to be a positive?
                        A polishing wheel can be a good way to polish, but it takes a lot of practice to avoid "burning through" the paint. Very hard to inflict damage rubbing by hand. The clay works great, it is a very, very fine polishing medium in a clay binder. You need to keep it lubricated for it to work. I use Windex, but there are special liquids made specifically for clay compounds.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by effiedude View Post
                          [ATTACH=CONFIG]22747[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]22748[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]22749[/ATTACH]

                          I see a few Coleman items on the wall behind Your Car. Here are a couple pics of some of My Coleman collection.
                          By the way Your car looks great!

                          ~Patrick Sammon
                          Yep, we're eyeballin all your stuff !

                          Dean.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Leo, the idea of the clay bar is that the "stickiness" of the clay pulls off any dirt etc. which is attached to the paint, or chrome or even glass. After a wash and dry, use a clay bar with quick detailer or similar to keep the bar lubricated and slowly rub the bar all over the vehicle and feel the smoothness compared to the other panels. Then use a polish if required, finally a wax to preserve the finish.

                            I'm buying a clay bar for my new lark which I picked up today, 1962 Champagne Gold (Toyota Colour) Lark Regal Sedan, Taupe dash and wheel and Maroon upholstery/carpets.
                            Yes, Yes, Photos when I can get them, Stude Dude from Queensland has some so will ask him to post them.
                            Last edited by avantilover; 04-04-2013, 10:59 PM.
                            John Clements
                            Christchurch, New Zealand

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Wow! I would of never thought of using the Murphy's soap on a vehicles paint, but sometimes things work better in different applications. I have a Clay bar setup with the quick detailer and definitely plan on using it on the vehicles paint. I did try it out on a small section of the paint and saw a huge difference in the feel of the paint. I just wanted to make sure I didn't hurt anything by washing the paint that I assume is older, but I appreciate everyone's advice so far with the Speedster project.



                              Dylan
                              I own a 1955 Studebaker President "Speedster", sat garaged for 20 years
                              pulled it out in January of 2013, she is now a weekend driver around town.
                              "Making many miles, and many smiles a long the way".

                              sigpic

                              Comment

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