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Oil Pan Install advice

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  • Engine: Oil Pan Install advice

    Hi,

    I just spent better than an hour looking at old post, got most of what I need answered, but still need some one to chime in..

    I am replacing the clutch on my 60' Lark..BUT I started first by addressing what a lot of Studebaker owners complain about, oil leaks.. Last winter, I successfully replaced the felt seal, and fixed the stripped filler block on my 259, so far, the front of the engine is dry. Before I pull the tranny, I decided to replace the pan gasket.. everything has gone fine, the pan is out, cleaned, ready to go..

    Hear is my challenge, It looks like the 4 bolt filler block will have to come out, to get the length wise pan gaskets in place, then reinstall the filler block. (in other words, the end of the pan gasket is sandwiched between the filler block and the engine block) I will most likely rip my front cover gasket doing this. my Stude shop manual says one can splice a piece of new gasket on the front cover.. Well, can you do this? Or should I bite the bullitt and take the front of the engine apart and replace the front cover gasket in one piece.

    I should have done this last winter, but being relatively new to Stude's I did not see the connection.

    Thanks for the help.

    Dave

  • #2
    I have successfully cut the gasket w/o problems....

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    • #3
      I have spliced the gasket several times, and never had a problem. Just butt the end up against the filler block and be sure to slather the pieces with your favorite gasket sealer. Careful not to use so much that is squishes out on the inside of the pan. Even if it does, it will stay stuck to the gasket; in other words its not gonna break off and fall into the oil. If I had to choose, would prefer a little too much sealer than not enough.

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      • #4
        What they are saying is, cut the length wise gasket to fit and use a small dab of RTV where it meets the filler block. BTDT last month.
        Jerry Forrester
        Forrester's Chrome
        Douglasville, Georgia

        See all of Buttercup's pictures at https://imgur.com/a/tBjGzTk

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        • #5
          I have gotten lucky before, and slid a putty knife between the timing cover and the filler block and separated the two with out damaging the timing cover gasket. A lot of that will depend on what kind of gasket sealer you used on the timing cover.
          1962 Champ

          51 Commander 4 door

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          • #6
            Thanks for the advice..

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            • #7
              One thing to watch for is how flat the oil pan mating surface is.
              Use a straight edge to check for flat. Lay it along the flange, across the pan, and corner to corner to eyeball how out of flat it is.
              The bolts usually put in a pucker that has to be removed.
              A piece of 3/4" wood on the back side of the oil pan flange and a hammer carefully applied will flatten the flange.
              Use wood not metal to back the flange, you're trying to move the metal not stretch it.
              The corners will sometimes need to be pryed or hammered to bring them flat.
              The closer to flat you get it the less chance of leaks.
              Of course you could just forget all about flat and duck pucky the 8377 out of it and hope for the best.
              South Lompoc Studebaker

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