Engine: '55 Speedster Comes Alive!

[Dylan]

First I just want to Thank everyone who has helped me though the process of getting the Stude back on the road. I do appreciate all the guidance that everyone has given me, and what will be in the future.

I'm glad to say after 25+ years my 1955 President Speedster has come alive. After just a month from digging her out of a storage room where she sat for the last 25+ years. With just a little work and replacing a few things, water pump, valve cover gaskets, heater hoses, battery & cables, ignition wires & spark plugs, oil change, and going through and cleaning all of the grounds and wires pertaining to the ignition she started right up after a little persuading. Coughed a little from the MMO that I put in the cylinders to loosen the pistons and rings, she hit 40 PSI oil pressure right away after starting, really glad that it did considering some of the horror stories I have read on the forum. The exhaust system has some Swiss cheese in the muffler, and in the rear tail pipe so when it kicked over the exhaust was coming from the back and in front of the RR. But the plan will be having a brand new exhaust put in the near future. After about 10 minutes the headers burned off the excess oil that I dropped from the MMO and the other chemicals, the exhaust was blowing clean. I burned about 6 gallons of fuel from a separate fuel container that I had setup, everything sounded really good. When I start it up their really isn't much smoke so I'm confident all the valves are in good condition.

Their is only one concern I have where the filler cap is for the oil their is this steam that comes out from the filler tube? Should I be concerned about it, or is it the old oil still burning off. I plan to build it up to temp a couple more times then will be changing the oil again and adding the ZDDP addictive to the oil.




Thanks again everyone!
Dylan

[avantilover]

I had the same question with my Lark and it was ok, just an exit for the heat on switch off. Enjoy the '55. I would one day strip the engine down as there is likely to be lots of rubbish in it from all the years of oil/water etc. Takes a while but you then know for sure all will be well. Just done that myself.

Don't forget to check/replace the brakes and fuel lines it's good to have "Go" but you gotta have "Whoa" also.

[avantilover]

Don't forget to get a tie-down for the battery or you'll have Bob Palma after you. It's kind of a forum joke.

[SN-60]

To: Dylan,----Just saw this thread...Congratulations on Your progress!...I have to get to work,....but just wondered if You could post (or re-post) the serial and the body numbers of Your Speedster for the roster?
Thanks......and 'KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK!'

[Dylan]

Thank you everyone. When I got the car the battery top mount was missing so I had to fabricate it, but it needs a more work for clearance. The brakes are on the next list of things, I will be doing them along with a good family friend who is a mechanic that has owned a few hot rods back in the day. This next week the plan is to drop the fuel tank and either have it dipped which was real pricey or by a good cleaning kit and do it myself, still undecided. I would like in a few years (10 - 15) down the road go through the motor when I have some more experience in engines.


Here is the Serial & Body Tags:

Engine Block: F1022 - 5356074

Exhaust Manifold(s): 5359762 - 3

Intake Manifold: 535661

Body Tag: 6H-K7 - 151

Serial Number: 78057I7

Note: Not sure what tag numbers you wanted I have posted the numbers that I could see, from what I read and looked up the car was built in the Los Angeles, CA plant is that correct from the serials numbers given?

[doug]

Air cleaner looks like it make it run a little rich. Just kidding. Engine compartment looks very nice for an unrestored car.

[Dylan]

Thank you it has taken a lot of degreaser and some elbow grease to get the gunk off the motor after all these years. I'm very happy how it's starting to look.







Dylan

[SN-60]

To: Dylan,----Thanks for the info...Your President Speedster was NOT listed in the roster...BUT IT IS NOW! Entering Serial# 7805717, 6HK7-151 (Los Angeles). Sliding right in between Serial# 7805658 6HK7-129 and
serial # 7805721 6HK7-155. Double check that engine number....It should start with a P (or actually PL on an LA Speedster). It's located on a machined pad to the right of the oil fill pipe, as You face the engine, and it's stamped into the block. PS....Notice how the body numbers follow nicely on Your Speedster and Speedster # 7805721!

[BobPalma]

Looking good, Dylan; congratulations! 'Glad to see someone else mentioned the battery hold-down, but I realize you're presently in the non-driving stage ever so temporarily.

Suggestion on the battery, though, is to rotate it 180 degrees in the box. That way, the positive (ground) post is at the rear outside location, closest to the underside of the hood. 'Less chance of shorting out the negative cable and damaging the hood once you have the car running and driving.

If the battery seems too high, make sure there isn't a height adjuster plastic piece snapped on the bottom of the battery case to make it taller for some applications. (If there is, just take it off and toss it.) BP

[Dylan]

Awesome to hears SN60. Thanks!

Bob Thanks it coming together nicely. I can switch it around those cables were custom made for the car by a guy who I know he's the manager of a battery shop where I bought everything. I will just have them make a longer one so I can turn the battery around. I removed the battery tray because it was a complete rust bucket, and wire brushed it finished it off with primer and a fresh coat of black paint. When I had it out like I mentioned before I fabricated a battery support which needs a little bit more work, I will post a pic when I get it finished. Their was no height adjuster plate in there it was just the box.


I'm in the process of removing the fuel tank I don't believe these engines run on varnish, that is what the tank smells like right now. I removed the drain plug to find nothing in the tank. I just started to remove it today, I have run into one issue removing the fuel line off the tank. I have used a 13mm wrench and soaked it with WD-40, anyone have any ideas of loosening the line? I don't know what she looks like inside, I want to run a fuel tank cleaning agent through it and re-seal it. Replace the filler tube and sending unit gasket. What is your thought on this, should I leave it alone or pull the tank?



Dylan

[Dylan]

Awesome to hear SN60. Thanks!

Bob Thanks it coming together nicely. I can switch it around those cables were custom made for the car by a guy who I know he's the manager of a battery shop where I bought everything. I will just have them make a longer one so I can turn the battery around. I removed the battery tray because it was a complete rust bucket, and wire brushed it finished it off with primer and a fresh coat of black paint. When I had it out like I mentioned before I fabricated a battery support which needs a little bit more work, I will post a pic when I get it finished. Their was no height adjuster plate in there it was just the box.


I'm in the process of removing the fuel tank I don't believe these engines run on varnish, that is what the tank smells like right now. I removed the drain plug to find nothing in the tank. I just started to remove it today, I have run into one issue removing the fuel line off the tank. I have used a 13mm wrench and soaked it with WD-40, anyone have any ideas of loosening the line? I don't know what she looks like inside, I want to run a fuel tank cleaning agent through it and re-seal it. Replace the filler tube and sending unit gasket. What is your thought on this, should I leave it alone or pull the tank?



Dylan

[PlainBrownR2]

It's been ages since I removed the one from my '55, is that the outlet line to the rest of the fuel system, and is that a hard line coming from the tank, or is that rubber line coming off of a nipple? With the hard lines, I use a set of flare nut wrenches to get the flare nut off. I can't recommend those enough when dealing with brake of fuel lines, because they round off real easy with regular wrenches. With the rubber lines, if I'm feeling lazy, I just snip the rubber line if I won't ever use it again, and pull the rest off when the tank comes off the car.

[bezhawk]

I'm sure you realize that Studebaker and other american manufacturers did not use metric fasteners on anything until the mid 1980's. Use a 1/2" flare nut wrench, it will lessen the chance of rounding off the fitting.

[Dylan]

It's been ages since I removed the one from my '55, is that the outlet line to the rest of the fuel system, and is that a hard line coming from the tank, or is that rubber line coming off of a nipple? With the hard lines, I use a set of flare nut wrenches to get the flare nut off. I can't recommend those enough when dealing with brake of fuel lines, because they round off real easy with regular wrenches. With the rubber lines, if I'm feeling lazy, I just snip the rubber line if I won't ever use it again, and pull the rest off when the tank comes off the car.

Its a hard line that runs from the tank. Their is a larger nut that is welded on the tank from what I can see, I knew right away that is what the copper line screws into so I did not mess with it. I will go pick up a set of flare nut wrenches, and give it another shot tomorrow. The rubber line is on the front of the car, it runs from the hard line to the fuel pump, I have already replaced that with new rubber fuel line.

Thanks bezhawk.



Dylan

[Rosstude]

Very nice car, and looks like your off to a great start.
Someone may confirm this, but do I spy a toilet paper oil filter?
My dad had one on a stovebolt 6. I remember he was more picky what toilet paper went in the car, than in the house.
Again, nice ride.