Electrical: Project electrical on 60 Hawk

[BShaw]

While I am waiting for parts so I can finish up the fuel system, I thought I'd start planning the electrical system redeux. Here's where I am currently at and some related questions:

1. Though the original harnesses are in generally good shape (save for a few jury-rigged connections by the previous owner) I will be removing the wiring and installing a 21-circuit EZ-Wire kit. This will be my fourth wiring install and I am pretty comfortable with that aspect. If I add new stuff like AC the circuit will be there for me.

2. I will be going to a GM one-wire 100 amp alternator. Going to call Phil Harris at Fairborn today and order a bracket for this. I have researched all the forum threads on this but if anyone has some thoughts, I'm listening.

3. The taillight lenses on the Hawk are small. Can't change the size but I would like to make them brighter. Has anyone done a custom LED conversion on taillights (any make)? I know there are halogen replacement bulbs but I don't want the heat that comes with it. LEDs would be the bee's knees. (Oh, how poetic!)

4. I am going to install some sort of relatively inconspicuous (hopefully) third brake light on the package tray. Any recommendations?

5. I am keeping the original AM radio as-is but I need to find a new location for my stereo unit. It was in a custom housing on the tunnel below the dash but the new 5-speed changes that. What have you done...under the seat (would have to be driver side) in the glovebox? I am not needing concert sound quality. I had previously converted the dash speaker into two stereo speakers and will probably install a speaker or two in the package tray and be done with it. Okay, maybe a small power amp and woofer in the trunk.

6. Electrically related.... My car has the dual deck antennas. i love 'em but I had to punch holes in my car coveer, which kinda defeats the purpose. So, I would like to replace those with a pair of power antennas IF I can find a style that has a shorter under surface space requirement. Any recommendations to check out would be appreciated.

Enough thinking out loud for now.

[rockne10]

Bob,
I changed the Prestolite alt in my '63 Cruiser for a Delco. All I needed to do on the bracket was weld an extension on the rear and drill two new holes. Years later I parted out the '63 and sold my adapted bracket.

I haven't done any tail light conversions but, from the testing I have done, painting the inside of the housing white will reflect more light than coating it with a mirror. If you think about the physics of light waves, black items appear black because they absorb all wavelengths of the spectrum. White items appear white because they absorb no wavelengths of light; all wavelengths are reflected. Using foil, painting silver or even chrome is going to absorb rather than reflect those wavelengths that make the color appear silver or chrome.

When I had my '63, I bought a relatively cheap third brake light from J.C. Whitless. Just about as inconspicuous as any aftermarket brake light will get.

[Warren Webb]

With that many amps possibly coming from the alternator I would want to have a heavy guage wire (at least 10 guage) feeding the fuse block. You may not need it with the current demands now but may in the future after other things are added.

Clark a while back came across a source for LED lights that sounded pretty good. He was mainly thinking of dash lights but tail lamps would be a resonable next step.

For tunes I would inquire into one that can have another (hidden) location but be controlled by a remote control. Some local car stereo places would be a good place to ask for advise.

[bezhawk]

I second the notion of a hidden audio. However, custom auto sound, and hidden audio (brands) have a bad rap for poor quality.

http://reviews.cnet.com/in-dash-car-stereos/rockford-fosgate-rfx-3000/4505-6729_7-35164364.html

This one looks promising.

[sweetolbob]

I second the notion of a hidden audio. However, custom auto sound, and hidden audio (brands) have a bad rap for poor quality.

http://reviews.cnet.com/in-dash-car-stereos/rockford-fosgate-rfx-3000/4505-6729_7-35164364.html

This one looks promising.

This is an intriguing option. While it requires a wired remote head, it could be installed most anywhere and the remote head installed in a console or low visibility area. Works with ipod and has an aux jack for MP3 etc. input and also a usb connection which is how I carry and use music in the Avantis.

Here's Crutchfields input on it. http://www.crutchfield.com/p_575RFX3...0.html?tp=1721

Bob

[Pat Dilling]

I tried replacing 1157 tail/brake light bulbs with the direct replacement LEDs and was disappointed in the result. Instead I am now using 2357 bulbs. They are dimensionally the same as 1157 but are higher wattage, especially on the brake/turn signal element. That produced the best results for me. Of course your mileage may vary. As for the third brake light, wander around your local pick n pull wrecking yard, there are a lot of choices.

[Colgate Studebaker]

I recently left (moved to Florida) my job with J.W.Speaker Corp., which manufactures lighting for Harley Davidson, Polaris, and several other large manufacturers. The bulk of our "new" business is the LED area. I only worked on the assembly line, But dealt with a lot of the engineers/ programmers on problem solving. For the LED's to "work", there needs to be enough "power" to light the various led's used in any particular head or tail light. To do this there were "driver" boards used in conjunction with LED boards fitted to the necessary housing being used. The driver boards are the key to getting the led's to "light" up. It would be neat if Speaker or another manufacturer could come up with a universal board that would be adaptable to various different configurations, but at this time there is not a lot of interest to invest in that line of thinking. I was pushing the sales team and product development to make some lights for the "classic car" market, but again the interest was very low. I intend to from time to time contact them about this, so who knows what might come down the line in the future. B.V.

[BShaw]

I tried replacing 1157 tail/brake light bulbs with the direct replacement LEDs and was disappointed in the result. Instead I am now using 2357 bulbs.

I saw those LED bulbs on the Jegs site. I figured one of you guys must have tried them. I'll go with 2357s. Thanks.

[jackb]

make sure you sound-proof the entire car for best stereo listening....

[rstrasser]

RE #3 If the reason for a 100 amp alternator is because the load is in the area of 100 amps then # 10 wire is way too small. The rating of #10 copper wire with 90 degree C insulation (194F) insulation is 40 amps. Double that amount of current for a long period of time and you might melt the insulation. Another problem is you will never keep any connections tight with that much of a temperature swing. If it was mine I would be running #2 or 4 to the fuse block.
Can't say I ever tried it. We currently have a job where we are using a mixture of #10 and 8 wire to power 32 amp 480 volt temporary electric heaters. The #10 wire is warm to the touch.
Before someone says something; I am well aware that the largest fuse that is allowed on #10 wire is 10 amps. The heaters had to be hooked up to prevent the building from freezing. Note the word temporary.
Ron

[RadioRoy]

[QUOTE=BShaw;721112]

5. I am keeping the original AM radio as-is but I need to find a new location for my stereo unit. It was in a custom housing on the tunnel below the dash but the new 5-speed changes that. What have you done...under the seat (would have to be driver side) in the glovebox? I am not needing concert sound quality. I had previously converted the dash speaker into two stereo speakers and will probably install a speaker or two in the package tray and be done with it. Okay, maybe a small power amp and woofer in the trunk.

QUOTE]

How about one of these?

http://www.radiosforoldcars.com/stereoF.htm

[hawk58man]

Thanks for the info,keep us in the loop! Mike..