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64 Hawk today's project
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Learned something today that made me glad I was doing this. In the second picture just to the right of the spare tire hold down hump you will see a round area rotted out with a bolt in the middle - also seen in picture 4 with rest of pan gone. This was not cut out by me except for a sliver still hanging on for dear life. Turns out this is the only support on the passengers side for the fuel tank - I was maybe a fill up or two away from dropping the tankDave Hugo
Wellford, SC
1940 Champion
1950 Champion Coupe
1955 President Coupe
1963 Lark Custom 2 Door V8
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I have dropped a few tanks out from under a car. Looks like you are in a position to "lift" a tank without having to drop it.
I don't know if you are retired or working, but I'd like to come over and get a close up look at your car. Let me know a time that works for you.John Clary
Greer, SC
SDC member since 1975
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Originally posted by GThawkwind View Postis that the one from classic enterprises, how hard was that to do?Dave Hugo
Wellford, SC
1940 Champion
1950 Champion Coupe
1955 President Coupe
1963 Lark Custom 2 Door V8
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Originally posted by duncan1951 View PostYes from Classic E. The actual floor wasn't that hard it was all the prep work. The perimeter metal was pretty much all gone (rusted out) so I had to cut it out in most places and replace with good metal. It wasn't a piece of cake or Twinkies but with enough time, money and patience anything can be done (maybe). Welding sheet metal, especially to old thin sheet metal is time consuming and tricky.John Clary
Greer, SC
SDC member since 1975
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Dave. Dont use fiberglass on it. Take the time and cut a patch from tin to fit where you have the holes and either weld or metal glue them on. You will be much happier with the end results. If you havent tryed any patch panel glue give it some thought. The stuff is great for what you doing and not that much in cost . A $40 tube would do what you need and maybe have some left over. Steve
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Before you bolt the rear corner supports back to the frame, be sure to raise the car and support the frame just forward of the front eye of the rear springs, with the rear tires hanging off the ground. That will allow the frame to drop down away from the trunk floor, so you can install factory type rubber spacers between the supports and the frame; pry the frame down a little extra and install 1/4" spacers. If you did not do this before welding the floor in place, you can still get everything in kelter, but it may require thicker spacers. Properly spaced, when you set the car back down on the ground, the frame, now supporting the trunk floor corners as the factory intended, will lift the rear of the car about an inch; the rear bumper will no longer cover half of the backup lite (as it does in the one pic), and the lower edge of the trunk will no longer hide behind the bumper, as it likely does now. You will probably also find the trunk fits the body better and the doors close easier.
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