I have a 63 Lark and want to replace the tank. I want something that is safe with todays fuels and can be modified for a large fuel line. Any recommendations?
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Originally posted by wheels777 View PostI have a 63 Lark and want to replace the tank. I want something that is safe with todays fuels and can be modified for a large fuel line. Any recommendations?--------------------------------------
Sold my 1962; Studeless at the moment
Borrowed Bams50's sigline here:
"Do they all not, by mere virtue of having survived as relics of a bygone era, amass a level of respect perhaps not accorded to them when they were new?"
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You may have a shot for a NOS Studebaker tank from Studebaker International.
If you can get your hands on a Studebaker parts manual and find the Studebaker part number for the tank you need and call Jim.
You may get lucky.
Billsigpic1957 Packard Clipper Country Sedan
"There's nothing stronger than the heart of a volunteer"
Lt. Col. Jimmy Doolittle
"I have a great memory for forgetting things" Number 1 son, Lee Chan
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You want to replace the tank. That means you have a tank. So far, so good.
You will be very lucky if SI has any left.
Your existing tank is repairable. It will be as safe with todays fuels as any tank you will find.
If you are going to modify with a large fuel line, why not start with the one you have? Stude gas tanks no longer grow on trees.
Why the larger fuel line?
If this will be a pro-stocker, why not get a totally new cell?Brad Johnson,
SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
'33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight. '53 Commander Starlight
'56 Sky Hawk in process
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Originally posted by rockne10 View PostWhy the larger fuel line?
If this will be a pro-stocker, why not get a totally new cell?
Pro Stock is very competitive and modern aerodynamics force the competitors to utlize modern cars. A Studebaker would not be competitive, and is not what we are building. An original tank with a larger outlet is all that we need for the performance level we are building the car for.
Originally posted by rockne10 View PostYou want to replace the tank. That means you have a tank. So far, so good.
You will be very lucky if SI has any left.
Your existing tank is repairable. It will be as safe with todays fuels as any tank you will find.
If you are going to modify with a large fuel line, why not start with the one you have? Stude gas tanks no longer grow on trees.
rockne10, It's stupid comments like yours that help turn young people away from older cars.54 C Land Speed - 179.644 mph
59 Lark Cruiser - 14.58 @ 99.30
60 Lark Gasser 1 - 10.82 @ 122.83
60 Lark
63 Lark Slammed - 11.62 @ 116.3
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Originally posted by klifton1 View PostI have an nos 62-66 tank powder coated black that I don't need.
Klif54 C Land Speed - 179.644 mph
59 Lark Cruiser - 14.58 @ 99.30
60 Lark Gasser 1 - 10.82 @ 122.83
60 Lark
63 Lark Slammed - 11.62 @ 116.3
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Hey Wheels. I had the inlet changed from the straw Studebaker used to a 3/8" line.All they had to do is melt off the old solder around the opening,enlarge it and then slide a new piece of pipe into it and resolder. The radiator shop I used to work at handled it on both my Studebakers. I also believe I have a spare gas tank used from a 63 Lark. All you have to do is pour a gallon of muratic acid in it and slosh it around till the insides are clean and rinse it out with water. Then add water and Dawn dish soap. Slosh that around,fill tank completely with water and let it sit awhile, then rinse with clean water. That should remove all the crud. There are many previous posts here on cleaning the insides out. I have referenced them and used some of the ideas found within. Don't be put off on a used tank. If you don't use it right away after that it will surface rust so plan on spraying it with light oil inside for storage. If you do not smell any vapors of gas after cleaning it should be ok to solder or weld. I have had no problem but just use common sense. Are you planning to sump it or something? Mine never starves for fuel using the stock but enlarged line location in my tank. I have a supercharged small block in my Lark. Lets hear some details man!!Last edited by AKAchamptrucking; 01-12-2013, 05:14 AM.
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Originally posted by wheels777 View Post
rockne10, It's stupid comments like yours that help turn young people away from older cars.Pat Dilling
Olivehurst, CA
Custom '53 Starlight aka STU COOL
LS1 Engine Swap Journal: http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/jour...ournalid=33611
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Originally posted by Pat Dilling View PostActually it is comments like this that turn people away from this forum. He simply offered a sincere suggestion. No need to respond in a rude and condescending manner. I was going to offer a suggestion for a possible source, but rather than risk having my post be thought of as stupid and a danger to the hobby, I will refrain.Candbstudebakers
Castro Valley,
California
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The problem with the written word is that it does not convey tone of voice or the facial expression. Many attempts at humor are taken wrong when a person does not start from the same perspective. That's probably why people use emoticons in their emails/posts."In the heart of Arkansas."
Searcy, Arkansas
1952 Commander 2 door. Really fine 259.
1952 2R pickup
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Originally posted by AKAchamptrucking View PostHey Wheels. I had the inlet changed from the straw Studebaker used to a 3/8" line.All they had to do is melt off the old solder around the opening,enlarge it and then slide a new piece of pipe into it and resolder. The radiator shop I used to work at handled it on both my Studebakers. I also believe I have a spare gas tank used from a 63 Lark. All you have to do is pour a gallon of muratic acid in it and slosh it around till the insides are clean and rinse it out with water. Then add water and Dawn dish soap. Slosh that around,fill tank completely with water and let it sit awhile, then rinse with clean water. That should remove all the crud. There are many previous posts here on cleaning the insides out. I have referenced them and used some of the ideas found within. Don't be put off on a used tank. If you don't use it right away after that it will surface rust so plan on spraying it with light oil inside for storage. If you do not smell any vapors of gas after cleaning it should be ok to solder or weld. I have had no problem but just use common sense. Are you planning to sump it or something? Mine never starves for fuel using the stock but enlarged line location in my tank. I have a supercharged small block in my Lark. Lets hear some details man!!54 C Land Speed - 179.644 mph
59 Lark Cruiser - 14.58 @ 99.30
60 Lark Gasser 1 - 10.82 @ 122.83
60 Lark
63 Lark Slammed - 11.62 @ 116.3
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Originally posted by Pat Dilling View PostActually it is comments like this that turn people away from this forum. He simply offered a sincere suggestion. No need to respond in a rude and condescending manner. I was going to offer a suggestion for a possible source, but rather than risk having my post be thought of as stupid and a danger to the hobby, I will refrain.54 C Land Speed - 179.644 mph
59 Lark Cruiser - 14.58 @ 99.30
60 Lark Gasser 1 - 10.82 @ 122.83
60 Lark
63 Lark Slammed - 11.62 @ 116.3
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Let's all relax. Pat and Bob, appreciate your concern but I am uninjured. It sounds like Andrew is going to try cleaning his original tank anyway. Maybe he will even show up at the Studebaker York Swap Meet.Brad Johnson,
SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
'33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight. '53 Commander Starlight
'56 Sky Hawk in process
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Originally posted by rockne10 View PostLet's all relax. Pat and Bob, appreciate your concern but I am uninjured. It sounds like Andrew is going to try cleaning his original tank anyway. Maybe he will even show up at the Studebaker York Swap Meet.54 C Land Speed - 179.644 mph
59 Lark Cruiser - 14.58 @ 99.30
60 Lark Gasser 1 - 10.82 @ 122.83
60 Lark
63 Lark Slammed - 11.62 @ 116.3
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