Steering: changing the steering setup when installing IFS front end???

[Deadbodyman]

hey guys,

I'm installing an Independent front suspesion on my 49 R5, which you can check out in my other thread.

Anyway it comes with a new rack and pinion steering unit to install. But from what my dad and I see the original steering box wont line up connect with this new unit.

Just wondering if anyone else has done this, or knows about it, and can give me some insight on what is normally done with the steering set-up??

I really want to keep the original steering column and wheel, and my dad thinks he knows how to modify it to work, but we dont want to go cutting anything up if we dont have to.


Any input anyone could give would be greatly appreciated!

[toymobile]

I have used more than one U joint steering shaft , Just needs support between the joints, check for binding ,PLAN++++PLAN measure twice cut ONCE, good luck
Johnny

[Mike Van Veghten]

Yep, what toy said.
Using more thAn one U-joint is a fairly normal thing when messing with cars (steering). As he notes, just build a "stable" support for the section that comes out of the firewall. You can buy kits for this. Check out the "Speedway" (Summit and Jegs also) guys.

Mike

[gordr]

You wouldn't want to use the original steering box with the new IFS, anyway. Too slow, and most likely worn out, too. Retain the original column? Sure. Disassemble it, use a hacksaw to cut the shaft off the worm from the steering box, and true up the cut in a lathe. Cut the jacket a little shorter than the shaft, and fashion a Delrin bushing to support the shaft at lower end of the jacket.

You will need to get a splined plug to fit the lower end of the steering column shaft in order to fit up a U-joint. I would want to have that plug both pinned and welded to the shaft, so there is no danger of it coming loose.

The above is very much the Coles Notes version. Probably your suspension supplier or an out fit that does mostly steering, such as Flaming River, will have detailed instructions for safely remaking your old column into one that is compatible with the new steering rack.

[leyrret]

I always use a self aligning bearing on lower end. Find a tube slight larger to slip over the original and weld a flat plate on it. Bolt the bearing to that. This can be clamped(split it where it is to be clamped) with a muffler clamp or similar to the original tube. If you make it of sufficient length you can adjust length somewhat. Though the bearing assembly has set screws I add a small u bolt below the bearing to hold steering wheel and shaft in position. The bushing method is neater and more compact but the bearing set up much stronger and with a grease fitting will last forever.

[Deadbodyman]

thanks guys, These are all things my dad was saying, but we wanted validation, and verification.

[gordr]

The self-aligning bearing sounds like a great idea!

[PackardV8]

The self-aligning bearing sounds like a great idea!

Yes, it works, but IMHO, its overkill for the application. A piece of Delrin or other UHMW plastic works fine as a lower bearing, lasts forever, can be easily machined to fit inside the column tube, held in place with a couple of machine screws.

Just asking - since this build is modifing everything else, why go to all the work to retain the old column? The Pik'nPull is full of good R&P columns for cheap which have a bearing and rag joint at the bottom, plus turn signals, wiper controls, headlight controls, steering lock, tilt, telescope and hotrod wiring kits plug right into them.

Your build, your money and time, your decision.