Fuel System: Gas tank to filler pipe connection?

[Justin53]

I removed the gas tank from my '46 Champion yesterday because it leaked mightily from the connection where the tank meets the filler pipe. It was easy to see why. There is nothing to seal the two pieces together but a dab of JB Weld. Well a little dab won't do. How were these pieces assembled when new? Did the factory assemble and align before sealing with some magical gas resistant goo? Other than the usual dirt and grease the parts are in good shape.

Other than that my only quandary is the fan belt. Suggested ones are either too long or too short and the job is so tedious that I wouldn't be surprised to discover that the engine block is from a Franklin and the generator from an Owens Magnetic.

Thank you all,
Justin

[57transtar guy]

Does it not have or supposed to have a rubber neck filler adapter held tight but hose clamps?

[FlatheadGeo]

Justin,

Just take your fan belt, if you have one, to an auto parts supply. They measure it and match to another one. If you do not have one, take a piece of clothesline or rope, wrap in around the pulleys and tie it where the two ends meet. This will give you a model to compare to replacement belts.

George

[FlatheadGeo]

x2, on the rubber piece. I just bought a new one from Studebaker International.

[t walgamuth]

If you are talking about the metal neck connecting to the metal tank, on mine it is leaded together, not very neatly I might add.

[Justin53]

Here is a picture

I have had other cars where the filler was in two pieces joined by a hose and clamps, but this is all one piece. The filler pipe doesn't have a flange to limit or align it to the tank and there is not any indication that it was ever welded. The edge on the tank side is curled back into the tank. If it curled out instead I could seal and clamp it. Here is a picture of the tank. It is not mine but the same unit.

Thanks for the input,
Justin

[41 Frank]

The fix is to remove the tank and take it to a radiator shop and have the neck resoldered to the tank. That is what I had to have done on my 41, which has the same tank. Make sure the neck is clocked properly before soldering.

[Justin53]

Accepting the inevitable

I will have it soldered. I had a feeling all along that this was what I would have to do. First I will clean it up so I can at least get the pipe into the tank. then I will remount it and mark it.

Is the stiff soldered joint a weakness since there is no flex allowed? Maybe I should make a hosed joint in the pipe.

Thank you for the good info,
Justin

[Studebakercenteroforegon]

Regarding your fan belt question...Dayco catalog specifies 22380, which means 22 - width in 1/32 of and inch = 22/32" or more correctly 11/16". 380 Means length - 38.0 inches long. So, this should give you a head start.

[Deaf Mute]

About all you can go is get it soldered really good. After cleaning as good as you can, get it just where it needs to be and mark it really well to get it in the exact position before taking it to the shop!

[nvonada]

Justin,
Gee, that tank picture looks familiar . Just get the neck resoldered. It worked for 70 years the last time. Is the clamp that supports the neck against the frame rail intact? If not that is probably why it failed. That calmp is supposed to support the neck. If it is loose or broken then every gas nozzle that you stick in the neck will be leveraging right on that tank-neck solder joint. The clamp is fully exposed to the wheel well and is likely to have rusted away or broken.

Nathan

[rkapteyn]

The original factory installed tanks had a solid ,one piece filler pipe up to I believe was 1950.
Replacement tanks from the factory had a rubber hose coupling and a separate loose filler tube.
This was done to facilitate shipping.
Robert Kapteyn