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1962 Lark - how to buff/shine?

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  • Paint: 1962 Lark - how to buff/shine?

    Hi - we're in coastal Washington, so some kind of protection is important, I know. We have a carport and a nice cover for it, however, there are a few small spots which have some rust already (just small dots, no worse than my "real" car). It seems to be the original colors (body white, roof a sort of blue green), and I want to get it shiny. What should and should I not use here?

    Thanks!

    Secondary question - should I paint the inside of the engine area?

  • #2
    Try to use a chemical shine maker, rather than buffing the paint. Buffing makes the paint thinner and leaves less paint on the car. I know that there are pros on this board who know how to buff, but the vast majority of us tend to over buff and remove too much paint.

    There is a wonderful product out there that used to be made and labelled by "the wax Shop." It's changed names a few times, and the bottle I have is labelled "Non Abrasive Pre - Wax Cleaner" and the top of the label says "the wax shop. Marine/RV." the bar code is 27475 38012.

    Use the stuff by hand and keep it real wet (with the stuff, not with water" while you work it around and around with your finder on a soaked rag. It will bring out a great shine and will not take off any paint.

    If you paint the inside of the engine compartment you should do it the way the factory did. That means NOT in black paint. Black paint is the way other brands or cars did it. The tops of the inner fenders are body color, and the lower parts of the inner fenders are generally body color paint runs and over spray.
    Last edited by RadioRoy; 10-01-2012, 07:04 PM.
    RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.


    10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
    4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
    5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Caligulette View Post
      Hi - we're in coastal Washington, so some kind of protection is important, I know. We have a carport and a nice cover for it, however, there are a few small spots which have some rust already (just small dots, no worse than my "real" car). It seems to be the original colors (body white, roof a sort of blue green), and I want to get it shiny. What should and should I not use here?

      Thanks!

      Secondary question - should I paint the inside of the engine area?
      Your car was originally painted with enamel.
      Some, or all, of your car is NOT original paint. Studebaker did NOT offer two-tone paint in 1962, except for possibly special order fleet applications.
      What was the original color of your car? Look for the paint tag under the glovebox or check the build sheet.
      Not knowing anything about the paint job that is now on your car, it is hard to give advise on what to do or not do to it. With any paint job, a general statemnet is do not use something that will remove too much material/paint.
      As stated by Roy, the inner fenders received some body color paint. The amount varied from car to car. The cowl received a fairly good paint job with the body color paint.
      Gary L.
      Wappinger, NY

      SDC member since 1968
      Studebaker enthusiast much longer

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      • #4
        According to the production order, it was originally Ermine White.

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        • #5
          A minimally intrusive approach may be a claybar. It will release soil, brighten and smooth the finish while being least aggressive on whatever the current paint may be. There is little you can do with areas that exhibit surface rust. After the claybar, a good wash with mild detergent, rinse, dry and wax. Those worn surface areas may be represented as patina.
          Brad Johnson,
          SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
          Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
          '33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight. '53 Commander Starlight
          '56 Sky Hawk in process

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          • #6
            I agree - three step process, if you really want to make it shine:

            1. GM Surface Cleaner (available from your friendly GM dealer's service counter)
            2. Mother's or Meguiar's clay bar
            3. NuFinish wax - great for older finishes

            And drive it proudly

            Clark in San Diego | '63 Standard (F2) "Barney" | http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

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            • #7
              This very car has been in my driveway when the prior owner was buying parts, and I would say it has a very sound finish on it. Good to seal and maintain it as everyone is suggesting, but it certainly does not need heavy buffing or scrubbing.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by rockne10 View Post
                A minimally intrusive approach may be a claybar. It will release soil, brighten and smooth the finish while being least aggressive on whatever the current paint may be. There is little you can do with areas that exhibit surface rust. After the claybar, a good wash with mild detergent, rinse, dry and wax. Those worn surface areas may be represented as patina.
                +1.
                I wholeheartedly endorse a good clay bar. It's the best way to find out what kind of paint surface you really have. I used a blue (fine) bar by Clay Magic on my Hawk to bring the finish from a dull, dry skin feeling to that of slick glass. The contaminants extracted were unbelievable (20 years L.A. smog). Now it looks wet all the time.
                Andy
                62 GT

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