View Full Version : 60 lark v8 alternator

09-09-2012, 10:29 PM
1960 lark v8 had prevoius owner swap generator to alternator. Used unknown parts. Have had alternator rebuilt and tested, new battery system will still not charge battery. Suspect voltage regulator and wiring. Putting in a solid state regulator, but not sure of correct wiring setup for alternator and regulator. 2 wire regulator.?????

09-10-2012, 09:34 AM
Hi Jake, welcome to the forum! (Well, according to the sidebar you technically joined in October, but thanks for becoming a participating member ;))

I can't directly answer your question off the top of my head, but my '63 Lark had an alternator swap, so when I get a little time, I can go pop my head under the hood and tell you how the PO did the swap.
In the mean time, you could definitely use the forum search feature to see if it gives you any luck, or I'm sure more weathered car guys here may be able to chime in sooner than I can go gather the info, too.

Also, while you can post these things here in the general discussion forum, if you post them in the "Technical Talk" forum, the seasoned studebaker mechanics haunt that forum looking for challenges to tackle, and I'm pretty sure you'd get more answers by posting there.

Dads Baby
09-10-2012, 10:02 AM
Welcome Jake!
I am by no means an expert on electrical systems. I do know that my alternator has an internal regulator. My wife just replaced ours :woot: (I had surgery). The old one only had one wire going to it. The two connections on the side were not used. The new one would not charge until I hooked a wire to the number 2 connection on the side, and the main connection on the back of the alternator. Seems to be working just fine.

09-10-2012, 10:25 AM
We need a little more information. When a car is unmodified, we generally know how it was equipped. With a modified car, it's anybody's guess.

First, the alternator. What make is it? They usually will have a maker's tag or sticker on them. Studebaker used Prestolite alternators, and they also used a "2-wire" regulator. A popular swap was the big Mopar "basket" alternator, which also used the same 2-wire regulator.

And a lot of swappers use the popular Delco 10SI internally-regulated alternators.

Since you have a 2-wire regulator in place, I am guessing you have either the Prestolite or Mopar alternator.

1. Ensure there is a good solid connection from the battery (+) to the large stud on the alternator. If it's a '60 Lark, there is no ammeter, unless one was added. If an ammeter was added, one pole of the ammeter goes to the battery (+), and the other connects to the alternator, and the rest of the car's circuitry.

2. Check your grounds! There should be a ground wire from the alternator case to the car body; it was a white wire built into the harness in alternator-equipped cars. Also check the short black ground wire that bridges over the right side rubber motor mount. People forget to put them on, sometimes. Also ensure that the regulator is similarly well grounded. It would not hurt to run a dedicated ground wire from the alternator case to one of the regulator mounting screws.

3. Look at the regulator, and check, using a meter or test light, that the "Ign" terminal goes to 12 volts when the key is switched on, and goes to zero when it is off.

4. Verify that the wire leading from the "Fld" or "F" post on the regulator does indeed go to the small tab connector on the alternator.

5. At the alternator, verify that the large stud is "hot". It should show 12 volts at all times, more when actually charging. If it's not "hot" then it's not connected to the battery, and cannot charge it.

6. With the engine idling, briefly connect the large stud on the alternator to the small tab that the "F" wire goes to; you have to unplug the "F" wire to do this. This is called "full-fielding" the alternator, and should make it put out at its max rate for the RPM. You should be able to hear it load down the engine. If nothing happens, the alternator is a dud.

If the alternator is some other brand, possibly a Honda one, as certain Honda alternators are a physical match, you will need hands-on help from an auto-electric tech.

09-10-2012, 11:11 AM
Gord has a good point. My car is an aforementioned Honda alternator swap, so it could be wildly different from a car with a stock alternator setup or going from a generator to a more "period correct" alternator.

Dads Baby
09-10-2012, 11:21 AM
I probably should have stated that mine is the GM 10s alternator.

09-10-2012, 06:22 PM
If you are using the GM 10S alternator, you have an internal regulator. This is a one wire setup. You don't need an external regulator. Try looking at this:


Lots of people use this setup, but I prefer the Honda or Toyota 3 wire conversion, with the external regulator. Run what you got! The GM will start to charge at 1800 RPM, then charge normally. Many people complain of dieseling (or engine run on) after the car is turned off. Randy Rundle at fifth street internet auto sells a diode that will stop run on if it happens to you.