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Rear Fin to Fender Molding

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  • Rear Fin to Fender Molding

    Hi, I am a new, proud, owner of an old '58 Silverhawk (my first Stude). It is complete but needs a little metal work. What is perplexing is where to find the thin, flat molding strips that connect the fins to the rear fender(along the trunk line). These are painted, not chromed, just to be clear about which strips I am referring. Mine are rusty and need replacement. Any pointers? I would appreciate any leads! Much Thanks. Badger

  • #2
    Classic Enterprises has them as reproductions, check their website
    www.classisEnt.com they have an online catalog that lists them.
    Frank van Doorn
    Omaha, Ne.
    1962 GT Hawk 289 4 speed
    1941 Champion streetrod, R-2 Powered, GM 200-4R trans.
    1952 V-8 232 Commander State "Starliner" hardtop OD

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    • #3
      I remember that somebody has them, is it Classic Enterprises?

      Jim
      "We can't all be Heroes, Some us just need to stand on the curb and clap as they go by" Will Rogers

      We will provide the curb for you to stand on and clap!


      Indy Honor Flight www.IndyHonorFlight.org

      As of Veterans Day 2017, IHF has flown 2,450 WWII, Korean, and Vietnam Veterans to Washington DC at NO charge! to see
      their Memorials!

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      • #4
        I bought the Classic Enterprise replacements and had them installed on my car. The body shop guys told me they were a tough ordeal to form and get to look correct.Here is a link of an alternative.....



        I offer this as an alternative only, I wanted the correct part and I paid for the installation of an original type part.

        OK I lied....I'll do it again for the "right" car, I love the chase.....
        It is an addiction!

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        • #5
          The Classic part is a pain, will rust and expensive. Use the rubber body molding like shown on the link, once it's painted it'll pass any show judge.

          JDP/Maryland
          64 Daytona HT/R2 clone
          64 GT R2
          63 GT R2
          63 Lark 2 door
          59 3E truck
          58 Starlight
          52 & 53 Starliner
          51 Commander

          JDP Maryland

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          • #6
            I doubt the Classic part will rust if it is painted prior to installation.Mine were cut, fitted, primed and painted before permanent installation.



            The alternative link I listed is(IMO) an option for a "driver". The material used is more of a "D" shape, not as flat fitting as the original type and may be noticed by a judge in an SDC concourse. The dimples below where the bolts connect the strip to fin and inner fender would no longer be there. I had the plastic strips on my car before latest restoration, they were changed to fit the "original as from the factory".

            Again this is all about personal opinion as well as what was correct from the factory. No right or wrong in the choice , just what works for a particular application.

            Classic Enterprises part must be formed on the front end(towards the door) for the early hawks into a bullet shape. Then as they decend towards the bumper they must twist as well as bend downwards. There is also a right and left side to the molding...... the plastic molding does not have this problem.

            OK I lied....I'll do it again for the "right" car, I love the chase.....
            It is an addiction!

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            • #7
              Thank you all for such great advice and encouragement. The only thing I need yet to find a source for the rubber/plastic option. I found the metal and will decide what to do once I compare prices, etc. Thanks again, I love Stude people!

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              • #8
                The "plastic" is a 3-m product and is much,much cheaper !

                1961 Hawk 4BC,4-SPEED,TT

                Lewisville,NC
                (formerly chevpartsman)
                1961 Hawk ...4-Speed;4bc;Twin Traction

                Ken Byrd
                Lewisville,NC

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                • #9
                  JC Whitney part number ZX159869B, 11.99 for 20ft black,
                  also avalible in chrome or gold . This works good for the
                  fin moulding and the "T" strips .

                  This is from another site and post, this is the plastic trim....


                  OK I lied....I'll do it again for the "right" car, I love the chase.....
                  It is an addiction!

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                  • #10
                    does anyone known if this trim from Classic will work on my 56 wagon fins??? It looks the same. Thanks.

                    1956 Studebaker Pelham Wagon Houston, Texas
                    Remember, \"When all is said and done. More is always said then ever done.\"

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                    • #11
                      I'm with JDP on this. The metal one's aren't worth the aggravation nor the price. CE does a GREAT service to the Studebaker community overall and they deserve praise for at least TRYING to do these delicate and complicated strips for us, but they're about twice as wide at the originals and a BEAR to make fit to where they look like a factory job.[}]

                      Miscreant adrift in
                      the BerStuda Triangle


                      1957 Transtar 1/2ton
                      1960 Larkvertible V8
                      1958 Provincial wagon
                      1953 Commander coupe

                      No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

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                      • #12
                        I concur, having been down that road. Don't even think about
                        trying to bend the metal strips yourself to get the compound curves right, unless you're a really good body man.

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                        • #13
                          Corrected link for Classic Enterprises;

                          Welcome to Classic Enterprises where we manufacture restoration car and truck parts for the Studebaker Avanti, Coupe, Hawk, Lark, pre-Lark post-war Sedan, C-cab pickup and T-cab pickup; also Jeep, Willys and the Ford Fairlane 500 retractable and convertible. Visit us at http://www.classicent.com. Reproductions are of the same gauge steel as the original in most applications, or a heavier gauge wherever the original component was too light for its application.


                          MIke

                          got my '59 Lark

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