Electrical: Pos bat terminal fell on my coil

[mrhingle]

Got home a few days ago and my 1962 champ 7e5 wouldn't kill so I put it in gear and let off the clutch. A few days later I tried to start the truck and it wouldn't start. I opened the hood to see that my battery clamp rusted out and my battery fell on to the coil ( positive terminal on the two wire connection of the coil). I replaced the battery and it is turning over, but is not getting a spark. I was going to replace the coil, but I keep getting the question: Does the coil have an internal resistor? I don't know. There are three black wires coming to the coil. Should I start with the coil? Should I get one with or without a resistor? Thanks..

[jclary]

This is a good example of how different people react to certain problems. If this had been my truck, there is no way I would have been able to leave the truck until I had opened the hood and attempted to diagnose the problem right then and there. Popping the clutch might have killed the engine, but if your ignition circuit was energized, by passing the ignition switch, you might still have a good coil, but fried the points. If you are still running the stock distributor and ignition system, leaving the ignition circuit energized, can burn the points. That is the cheapest component, and the one I would check first.

[63 R2 Hawk]

^^X2, fried points.

[mrhingle]

I looked at the points, and don't see anything strange. Don't really know much about it though, they appear clean and not black. There is a hole in the coil casing. I would like to replace the coil too, but can't replace it without knowing weather there was an internal resistor.

[64V-K7]

According to https://www.studebakerparts.com/stud...trk-legend.jpg, If the wire from your IGN switch is Pink, then the coil has NO internal resistor. The pink wire is a thermistor and adds resistance as the current flows, which acts as an external resistor.

[52hawk]

And if you have the pink wire,it's time to replace it too. Buy an external resistor coil,and a resistor,and wire it up. Or,buy an internal resistor coil,and wire it up-[with a normal wire from the ignition switch. Lucky the poor truck didn't catch fire and burn to the ground.

[mrhingle]

I've got spark at the points but none at the plugs. Could it be the cap, condenser, rotor, or something else?

[StudeRich]

I've got spark at the points but none at the plugs. Could it be the cap, condenser, rotor, or something else?

The point gap and condition still is suspect, they are getting fire from the Condensor but may not allow the Engine to run without proper Gap and a good smooth surface.

On a 6 Cyl. it is very easy to pull the Dist. for a GOOD look, just bump the starter until the Rotor points forward or in a rememberable position to return it to.

[mrhingle]

I replaced the points, coil, and batery. Set the gap at .02

[jclary]

I've got spark at the points but none at the plugs. Could it be the cap, condenser, rotor, or something else?

YES, it could be something else. It could be as simple as 1) check the inside top of your distributor cap. Be sure the little round carbon contact is in place and not missing. 2) Check your rotor, make sure the metal contact point that is supposed contact the carbon piece on your distributor cap is not so pushed down that it fails to make contact. 3) When placing the rotor back on the distributor shaft, don't push is all the way down, let the distributor cap do that when you re-install it. 4) Most importantly, make sure that the rotor is the proper one for your distributor.

Over the years, there have been various distributors that will work on these engines, it is easy to get mis-matched replacements. Some of the mis-matched parts will actually work, but not always work well.

[52hawk]

Gap at .02? Should be around .18.