Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Chrysler 318 fuel pump compatability

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Fuel System: Chrysler 318 fuel pump compatability

    Okay, the '63's fuel pump is faltering (again!) and recently a couple guys in the local chapter told me that a fuel pump from a Chrysler 318 is a bolt-in replacement, and the only difference is that the in and out ports are reversed on the Chrysler pump. So I called NAPA and they have a pump for $20. I told them to hold it for me.

    Reviewing Bob Johnstone's site, it looks like the pump does bolt in, but the references there say that you might need to heat up the arm and bend it a few degrees. At the same time, they seem to be discussing R series motors on Bob's site, not the little 259. The guys who told me about using the 318's pump did not mention bending the arm.

    Here's my question. If I bolt this bad boy up as is, is it going to be fine for my engine even if the arm is a hair off, or should I bend the arm? Not having picked up the part yet, I can't physically line them up to see the difference. If I do need to bend it, will a mapp gas torch be hot enough to do the trick? That's the best I can do right now in my shop.

    Thanks guys!

    (PS - Yes, yes, I realize I could order the right part straight from a Stude vendor, but I'm off tomorrow, and I really want to get some time to drive around. Plus, with everyone in South Bend, it's going to be a week before any of my regular vendors could even get back to me anyhow.)
    '63 Lark Custom, 259 v8, auto, child seat

    "Your friendly neighborhood Studebaker evangelist"

  • #2
    Those are a higher volume pump, good for R 1 engines. the mods to the arm are best done by cutting and welding. Too much heat without a heat dam will ruin the pump.

    The cams are in the same spot on stude V 8's so the mod is needed if you plan to use it on a 259. This area is what contacts the cams fuel pump eccentric lobe......

    check your tank for dirt and rust. Install a filter at the tank.

    Comment


    • #3
      Bend the arm with a vice and large pliers and/or hammer. There is a template on the Johnstone site. Use that and your old arm to get it right.
      Jim
      Often in error, never in doubt
      http://rabidsnailracing.blogspot.com/

      ____1966 Avanti II RQA 0088_______________1963 Avanti R2 63R3152____________http://rabidsnailracing.blogspot.com/

      Comment


      • #4
        If you have a Hawk, the Chrysler pump (as well as the R series pumps) will hit the frame mount. A bit of heating and hammering will provide needed clearance. Larks are ok.
        Bez Auto Alchemy
        573-318-8948
        http://bezautoalchemy.com


        "Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln

        Comment


        • #5
          I find it interesting that a small block Chrysler fuel pump will bolt up and work on a Stude with a tweak of the pump arm......could definitely bail out someone traveling in His/Her Stude V-8 if their
          fuel pump breaks.

          Comment


          • #6
            If you will call Hal at 518 374 5078, He will rebuild your pump really quickly and it will be just like new. He's an interesting fellow too. Give him a call

            Comment


            • #7
              Jim, I installed a mopar fuel pump on my 259 two barrel and it does push more fuel than the two barrel bowl can hold. So I put a fuel regulator between the pump and the carb, then took the car for a drive. After stopping a couple of times to adjust the regulator to the point where the amount of fuel running through it was now making the carb happy, the problem was solved. It is a straight bolt on install. If you have a four barrel carb I don't think you will need the regulator. Also the mopar pump does not spray oil all over your block like the Stude pump does.
              Jim Barker
              '70' Avanti II

              Comment

              Working...
              X