PDA

View Full Version : We dont work on the rusty ones....



cultural infidel
07-05-2012, 02:52 PM
Was calling a few local exhaust shops regarding my exhaust leak and that was the response that I got. The collector bolts are rusted solid it would appear. We damn near soaked them in wd-40 to no avail. We tried heating them up. We werent able to get them to budge at all. We sure gave em hell! I have the gaskets ready to go, just need to pull the thing apart to do it. No air tools to work with. Anyone got a tip or trick breaking them free?


Got a couple other shops to try, hopefully they will work on the rusty ones.

sweetolbob
07-05-2012, 03:08 PM
Was calling a few local exhaust shops regarding my exhaust leak and that was the response that I got. The collector bolts are rusted solid it would appear. We damn near soaked them in wd-40 to no avail. We tried heating them up. We werent able to get them to budge at all. We sure gave em hell! I have the gaskets ready to go, just need to pull the thing apart to do it. No air tools to work with. Anyone got a tip or trick breaking them free?


Got a couple other shops to try, hopefully they will work on the rusty ones.

WD-40 is not your best option. Go to BP Blaster or the ATF/acetone mix. Looking from the top of the manifold you should see the threaded holes that the studs are in. Hit them with BP Blaster from above and also soak the studs and nuts with it. After a while, heat the studs with a torch and spray again. Keep this up on both the nuts, hole and studs. Remember acetone is flammable so I'd try the commercial first.

Also use a wire brush to get rid of as much rust as you can.

What you are trying to do if wick the release agent into the threads. Hopefully this will help. If you don't have a torch use a propane torch.

Bob

rockinhawk
07-05-2012, 03:36 PM
Everything Bob said and use 6 point sockets ,wrenches if possible. Good luck.

JoeHall
07-05-2012, 03:49 PM
You may be better off to remove the exhaust manifold on each side, so you can get at it better, since you may wind up doing some drilling and tapping. While you are at it, have the manifolds "surfaced" at a machine shop. Put it back with all new fasteners, and use "anti-seize".

JoeHall
07-05-2012, 03:50 PM
IN order to remove the manifolds, you may have to cut the pipes a foot or so down from the flange. If the metal in the pipes is good, you can weld them back together later.

studegary
07-05-2012, 03:58 PM
WD-40 is not your best option. Go to BP Blaster or the ATF/acetone mix. Looking from the top of the manifold you should see the threaded holes that the studs are in. Hit them with BP Blaster from above and also soak the studs and nuts with it.
Bob

I think that you mean PB Blaster. I don't want him looking for the incorrect thing.

cultural infidel
07-05-2012, 04:49 PM
I think that you mean PB Blaster. I don't want him looking for the incorrect thing.

I actually read it as PB Blaster. I will spray that on there tonight.

I have to drive it tomorrow. So I will suffer with the leak for another day. If I can't get it taken apart this weekend, I may take it in to a shop next week that I have gone to many times before to see what they think. My old Dodge came apart so easily when I needed to fix the exhaust, its kind of frustrating that the Stude is being so stubborn! lol

53k
07-05-2012, 04:55 PM
Was calling a few local exhaust shops regarding my exhaust leak and that was the response that I got. The collector bolts are rusted solid it would appear. We damn near soaked them in wd-40 to no avail. We tried heating them up. We werent able to get them to budge at all. We sure gave em hell! I have the gaskets ready to go, just need to pull the thing apart to do it. No air tools to work with. Anyone got a tip or trick breaking them free?


Got a couple other shops to try, hopefully they will work on the rusty ones.
My mechanic son's trick on frozen bolts/nuts is to heat them with a propane torch then rub an ordinary candle on the heated part then put the wrench to them (six point as another suggested). On reassembly anti-seize is your friend.

swvalcon
07-05-2012, 06:04 PM
As crazy as it sounds that heat it up and put a candle to it works great. I've done it many times myself on frozen bolts. Not %100 but has gotten me out of more than one spot.

1962larksedan
07-05-2012, 08:24 PM
In the worst case scenario: i.e. the exhaust studs breaking off the 'ears' from the manifolds: new ones are available from Dorman and a few other outfits for about $100 each. Just specify a Ram's Horn for a 1960's SBC.

rockne10
07-05-2012, 08:29 PM
Remember too, cast iron can take a lot of heat. Torch it cherry red with an oxyacetylene. Quick shot of Blaster. Don't give it a chance to cool before wrenching with a six-point socket. Remember afterwards, your socket will also be very hot.

sweetolbob
07-05-2012, 09:16 PM
I think that you mean PB Blaster. I don't want him looking for the incorrect thing.

Well!!!! actually I was suggesting that he take the car to BP (Bob Palma) and have him spray his PB Blaster on the parts. ;)

In any case, Gary Thanks for cleaning up my oversight.:!:

Bob

rodnutrandy
07-05-2012, 10:16 PM
I hope those dorman studs are a dollar each and not $100, but i haven't priced any in a while and nothing shocks me anymore!

cultural infidel
07-05-2012, 10:27 PM
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a209/edward4dhands/2012-07-04_16-58-30_918.jpg
Thats what I am working with. The angles to get a socket in there absolutely suck. I had also never seen that middle "donut" (for lack of a better time) on a car before. The gaskets that I was told to purchase via NAPA's website look like a blue graphite donut instead of a flat gasket. Is this the correct gasket?

mapman
07-05-2012, 11:22 PM
You may be able to get a nut splitter in there. Use it to split the nuts then chase the threads after you get it apart and use the anti-sieze when you put it together. It can save a lot of time not messing with the old nuts.
Rob

jclary
07-06-2012, 06:18 AM
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a209/edward4dhands/2012-07-04_16-58-30_918.jpg
Thats what I am working with. The angles to get a socket in there absolutely suck. I had also never seen that middle "donut" (for lack of a better time) on a car before. The gaskets that I was told to purchase via NAPA's website look like a blue graphite donut instead of a flat gasket. Is this the correct gasket?

If I am understanding your photo correctly, your exhaust connection involves the heat riser valve with a fixed flange gasket, and a floating flange that takes the donut style gasket. It also looks like the assembly was tightened with a slight mis-alignment with the right side squeezed tighter than the left which causes a bind increasing the difficulty in removing the rusty nuts.

Unfortunately, one of the things that I think Studebaker was truly ahead of its time was "space economy." Which really is a euphemism for not leaving much room for working on the darn things. Also, any muffler shop too timid to tackle a job like this is probably not qualified to do a proper job in the first place. There are some great suggestions already mentioned. Enough heat to get it "cherry red" and six point sockets and/or a good old-fashioned wrench, candle wax, etc. are all excellent suggestions.

About the worst thing is, if you are having to depend on the car as your daily transportation, because very often, it takes time and patience to allow these things to work to your advantage. Having to rush to do this type of job is often where you brake bolts and strip threads making a hard job even worse.

Not only are you battling close working conditions, but you need top quality thin-walled sockets and wrenches because there is usually not much clearances between the nut you are trying to remove and the curved side of that exhaust pipe. Hang in there and keep at it. Few things give me more satisfaction than overcoming the difficult jobs. Fortunately for most of us...this is one we don't have to do very often.

64V19816
07-06-2012, 07:17 AM
What I do with well and truly frozen bolts is use a dremel cutoff wheel and slice into it. Then a few whacks or sometimes a Twist with a screwdriver gets it iff

gordr
07-06-2012, 09:07 AM
What I do with well and truly frozen bolts is use a dremel cutoff wheel and slice into it. Then a few whacks or sometimes a Twist with a screwdriver gets it iff

What he says! They are exhaust flange nuts, not the Crown Jewels. Take the Dremel tool to them, and slice the nuts until you can just see the threads showing in the cuts. Slice them in two places if you can, and then a few taps with a hammer and cold chisel should knock the pieces off. You can probably buy a basic Dremel tool kit, or its Craftsman counterpart, for about $40, and it is money well spent. Get an extra sleeve of the little cutoff discs; they are fragile. Once the head pipes are off, run a die over the studs to clean up the threads.

BTW, if you are really good with a cutting torch, you can smoke the nuts off there without damaging the studs. That used to be the routine way for muffler shops to deal with this issue.

new2drive
07-06-2012, 09:16 AM
You can also take the opposite approach and use something like Loctite Freeze and Release. I will tell you it works. We use it at the shop all of the time to aid in breaking frozen nuts up on meters that are solid rust. I have also used it on the Stude too. Sometimes heat, sometimes cold... it all has to do with breaking that rust seal between the parts.

johnod
07-06-2012, 12:06 PM
After you get it apart, you might try using brass/bronze nuts for reassembly, an old trick.

mmagic
07-06-2012, 12:33 PM
Ouch ! I just did the same drill with engine out and it wasn't much fun. My solution having been there would be pull the manifold, sacrifice the studs to get it out and with manifold out drill out the old studs, clean re-tap the manifold threads. New studs are $4 at Advanced. That is essentially what I did.

You can spend man-years trying to solve the problem in an awkward spot and still have old rusty studs that won't come off any easier the next time.

studegary
07-06-2012, 01:30 PM
I thought that you were trying to get studs or bolts out. Now that I see that you just need to remove nuts, simply destroy the nuts and replace them with brass nuts.

cultural infidel
07-06-2012, 02:19 PM
Next question about this.... what does the heat riser do? is it necessary? From what I understand, it's not as important since I have a manual choke already on the car.

Skip Lackie
07-06-2012, 03:23 PM
The heat riser heats up the fuel faster in cold weather so it will vaporize. It does this by partially blocking one of the exhaust head pipes and directing the exhaust gases through passages in the intake manifold to the other side. It really is not related to the enrichment provided by the choke. If you live in Fla, you can probably get along without it. But in Washington, your car will start moving a lot more easily on a cold day with a working heat riser.

cultural infidel
07-27-2012, 02:31 PM
in my picture you can only see 2 bolts. When I look them up online all i find is ones with 3 bolts. Is there a 3rd hiding back in there? Also, anyone know what the size is that I should be looking for? 2"? 2-1/2"? I am looking at deletes and replacements. I am weighing all of my options. I most likely will not be driving this in the winter so I am not too consider about the chilly days. I generally let the car warm up for a bit of time.

nwi-region-rat
07-27-2012, 06:06 PM
I had a similar problem. bought a air body saw from harbor freight, it's about the size of a flashlight and has a nice short saws all type blade. Under $20 and worked great, I use it all the time now....

1962larksedan
07-27-2012, 09:05 PM
in my picture you can only see 2 bolts. When I look them up online all i find is ones with 3 bolts. Is there a 3rd hiding back in there? Also, anyone know what the size is that I should be looking for? 2"? 2-1/2"? I am looking at deletes and replacements. I am weighing all of my options. I most likely will not be driving this in the winter so I am not too consider about the chilly days. I generally let the car warm up for a bit of time.

Ram's Horn exhaust manifolds all have 3 studs.

wittsend
07-28-2012, 12:29 AM
I've had mind on/off a number of times. For sure you need a deep socket, a universal joint and about 18" of extension. Wire brush the threads (use the small ones), spray with a penetrate and pray that nothing breaks. Yes, there are three studs per side.

Warren Webb
07-29-2012, 12:13 AM
All great suggestions but I would like to caution if you use heat from an oxy/acet. torch, place a soaking wet rag on the starter & soleniod just as a precaution.

cultural infidel
07-30-2012, 01:37 PM
I've had mind on/off a number of times. For sure you need a deep socket, a universal joint and about 18" of extension. Wire brush the threads (use the small ones), spray with a penetrate and pray that nothing breaks. Yes, there are three studs per side.
Hoping to get after this this weekend finally. Between moving and the newborn, I have just watched the car sit on the parking strip. I have been spraying it with the PB Blaster every so often so that it can work its way in and do its job. My cousin in law who is a diesel tech suggested giving the bolt a quick jolt to the right then trying to loosen it. He said to do this after it soaks for a while.