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View Full Version : A change of plans.... sort of...



new2drive
05-16-2012, 07:36 AM
Ok, so I mentioned I bought 2 40 Commanders from Sam, the end result is to restore the family stude and fix the other up nicely. So far, so good...

I started the adventure by having to deal with some stripped studs. I was able to get the tires off, replace the studs with NOS press fit ones (not those new ones with the knurling on them)... and then had a look at the brakes. The pads were actually pretty thick still, well above the rivets and the drums were smooth... very smooth. The insides were rusty, as expected, but in very great conditions. Getting the hubs off with the puller was a real challenge with the stripped studs... I did it though, about 3 hours per tire with stripped studs. The amazing thing though, was that once I got hooked up, the hubs came off relatively well... they weren't siezed at all. I replaced 10 studs in all.

Which brings me to my first question: It my book correct at saying the axle nut needs to be torqued to 170 pounds when I reattach the hubs?

The brake hoses looked relatively new and in good repair and the lines were not copper, but seemed ot be steel. They were rusty looking, not fresh and clean, but pretty solid.

Question number two: The brakes show signs of being completely restored sometime in the recent past, would you guys still recomend replacing all of the brake lines and hoses? Pulling the cylinders, etc? My intent is to check them over, bleed them and then test them very hard. If they work fine, I wasn't going to pull all of th ecylinders and master to rebuild like I did on my other 40. My reasoning here is that the brakes work, th ecar is drivable and has fluid in them, not dry ashy buildup.

Is there a way to tell wha kind of brake fluid is currently in the car as Sam didn't know? I woudl like to get it cleaned, flushed and refilled.

Once I decide on what to do here, I will be moving right to a tune up as the mechanicals are still operational and in good shape. I added a carb breather and it runs well now.

My next project will be seals, welt, channels and weatherstripping... along with a new bumper bracket (there were 2 different sized one on the rear bumper) and bumper to body rubbers. I also need ot replace 2 windows... all of this, including the tires will easily come in under $1000 from the pricing I have done.

I know it is dumb to put seals on before paint, but the seals can be safely removed without damage when paint time comes. I am using the 3M stuff as recomended. I just cannot afford a paint job right now, but soon I hope!

Anyway, I just though I would post an update to progress... it is very hard to pull me from the garage now that I am seeing serious progress.

I'll update as things move forward.

BobGlasscock
05-16-2012, 12:14 PM
I'm not an expert at many things, so I'll offer only this advice. Check the rubber parts of the wheel and master cylinders VERY closely before deciding not to replace them. They are very easy and inexpensive to replace, and the brakes depend on them to work.

Skip Lackie
05-16-2012, 03:45 PM
Question number 2: put some clean DOT-3 fluid in a glass jar, and bleed some of the fluid out of a brake line into it. Shake, and let sit. If it separates into two fluids, you currently have DOT-5 silicone fluid. If not, it's DOT 3/4. Also, silicone fluid is normally colored a sort of a purple color when new. However, I have seen old (but still good) silicone fluid that has faded to a clear color.

new2drive
05-17-2012, 06:05 AM
Skip.... THANK YOU! This is probably something I should have known or figured out, but I am a bit overwhelmed with excitement. I just want to make sure the brakes are the best they can be.... and on that note...I'll be taking Bob's advice too... you guys are right... there is a LOT riding on the brakes and it doesn't take long to pull, clean and check the cylinders once the hubs are off anyway. And I already have the rebuild kits... better safe than sorry!!! I know I have been very bad at pictures, but like I said, I literally have 100's, but they take forever to uplod to photo bucket and then even longer to try and get into the SDC forum in the correct format.

I want to ask something about seals too really quick: as the paint job will cost more than I have extra right now, it might take me a year of so to fund it, so if I use the 3M adhesive to apply all of the new seals I have ordered to get the car up and driving, can I *EASILY* use the 3M remover to dissolve the adhesive *SAFELY* with no damage to the seals when it comes time to paint? I do not want to have to buy the seals twice, but I want to drive the car too... instead of having to wait a year or maybe more depending on the paint job cost.

Thanks so much guys! I am really looking forward to trying to turn out with the Pittsburgh PA chapter a few tiems this summer!!!

Dan

Skip Lackie
05-17-2012, 06:32 AM
Note that Bob Glasscock said to check all rubber parts. My recommendation would be to replace all rubber parts, including the hoses, as long as the brake system has been opened up. You can't see disintegration of the inside of the hoses. And replace all those little brass gaskets/washers. They are cheap and readily available at your FLAPS or from SI.

I would not say that that weatherstrip adhesive comes off EASILY. It comes off with the right tools and potions, especially if it's not too old, but can be time-consuming to remove completely. 3M makes a Release Agent that is helpful, but lacquer thinner works well if you're not worried about damaging the paint and you're in a well-ventilated area (like outside).

One more datum on brake fluid: DOT-3/4 will mix with water; DOT-5 will separate.

wolfie
05-17-2012, 08:32 AM
Ok, so I mentioned I bought 2 40 Commanders from Sam, the end result is to restore the family stude and fix the other up nicely. So far, so good...

I started the adventure by having to deal with some stripped studs. I was able to get the tires off, replace the studs with NOS press fit ones (not those new ones with the knurling on them)... and then had a look at the brakes. The pads were actually pretty thick still, well above the rivets and the drums were smooth... very smooth. The insides were rusty, as expected, but in very great conditions. Getting the hubs off with the puller was a real challenge with the stripped studs... I did it though, about 3 hours per tire with stripped studs. The amazing thing though, was that once I got hooked up, the hubs came off relatively well... they weren't siezed at all. I replaced 10 studs in all.

Which brings me to my first question: It my book correct at saying the axle nut needs to be torqued to 170 pounds when I reattach the hubs?

The brake hoses looked relatively new and in good repair and the lines were not copper, but seemed ot be steel. They were rusty looking, not fresh and clean, but pretty solid.

Question number two: The brakes show signs of being completely restored sometime in the recent past, would you guys still recomend replacing all of the brake lines and hoses? Pulling the cylinders, etc? My intent is to check them over, bleed them and then test them very hard. If they work fine, I wasn't going to pull all of th ecylinders and master to rebuild like I did on my other 40. My reasoning here is that the brakes work, th ecar is drivable and has fluid in them, not dry ashy buildup.

Is there a way to tell wha kind of brake fluid is currently in the car as Sam didn't know? I woudl like to get it cleaned, flushed and refilled.

Once I decide on what to do here, I will be moving right to a tune up as the mechanicals are still operational and in good shape. I added a carb breather and it runs well now.

My next project will be seals, welt, channels and weatherstripping... along with a new bumper bracket (there were 2 different sized one on the rear bumper) and bumper to body rubbers. I also need ot replace 2 windows... all of this, including the tires will easily come in under $1000 from the pricing I have done.

I know it is dumb to put seals on before paint, but the seals can be safely removed without damage when paint time comes. I am using the 3M stuff as recomended. I just cannot afford a paint job right now, but soon I hope!

Anyway, I just though I would post an update to progress... it is very hard to pull me from the garage now that I am seeing serious progress.

I'll update as things move forward.



If you dont know when the brakes were done at the very least put rubber kits in each cylinder (all wheels and master). Remember in that original single pot master cylinder system if ANYTHING in the system fails you are likely have TOTAL brake failure. The rubber kits are quite cheap. Since you say the lines look rusty I would also replace those but at the very least pressure everything up HARD several times, stomp the brake like you were in a panic stop, and hold that pressure for at least 30-45 seconds each time. Good Luck, Steve

new2drive
05-21-2012, 10:18 AM
Soooooo, I got the stripped wheel studs off and replaced with NOS, and am reworking the brakes, lines and cylinders. Good news is I just did this for my other 40, so I "remember" what I am doing. Also... so far, the shoes are in excellent shape. I'll be doing the rebuild on the brake system just to be safe.

Tires, welt, seals and window channels & weatherstripping are all going on order in about 1-2 weeks..

I'll be putting the new carburator filter/vernting on this weekend and she purrs like a kitten.

I did opt to put all of the seals and such on for now as I really want to drive this beauty before the season ends. I cannot afford the paintjob until probably next year... at which point, all of the seals and window hardware will need to come off again... <sigh>...

When I take her out, I will post a"before" pic here... for now, if anyone is interested, I posted a lot, and I mean a lot of pictures (finally) on photobucket... Look them up if you wish: new2drive...

It looks like I'll be a member of the "on the road" Studebaker owners really soon!!!

I am really torn on the color I am going to choose... as this car is already converted to 12V, I want to keep the color authentic, but Hunter Green or Cardinal Red are really appealing to me. I will probably wind up doing matt black with white walls or charcoal grey with the white walls.

As always, thanks for reading!