Brakes: Disc brake problem

[feralcat0_0]

Gentelmen; Does anyone have any contact information for Steel Tech Solutions? have tried to reach them at the two phone numbers that I have for them, but even David Levesque's home phone number has been disconected.
If I can't reach them, maybe someone who has used his Front disc brakes can help me.
I purchased mine (pluss rear disc setup) about 6 years ago. Just recently I have been working onthe restoration of my "58 Starlight Packard. Am in the process of installing the disc brakes and all the other components on the frame.(Body is on a roterisie, and frame painted.) Instalation of the rear disc brakes was straight forward with no problems. The problem comes in when trying to install the front wheel bearings in the new rotors.The races that were in the rotors from Steel Tech's were somwhat rusted from sitting so long is storage. Removed the races and went to press in the new races that came in the kit from Steel Teck. The new races just fell into the rotors and were too loose to possibily use like that. Went to a bearing supplier and they could not come up with a solution. Anyone have any suggestions?

[sweetolbob]

Robert

There should be numbers on the bearings to identify them, However, if not:

Just take the box the rotors came in to the parts store and have them do a search for the cars they fit and order the bearings and races.

If the boxes are missing here is a shot of the box my Steel Tech rotors came in.

Hope this helps.



Bob

[pdrnec]

Might find some answers here

[sbca96]

I had a rather involved conversation with Dave a few years ago, and what I can add
is ONLY Bendix rotors work with his kit. Apparently the Chinese rotors on the market
dont allow the use of the Studebaker bearings and "fall in" like you describe. I was
not able to understand if you replaced the rotors that came with the kit, or replacing
the bearings only. The Bendix rotors were about $180 a piece last I priced them. On
the other hand Turners rotors are over $100 a peice, ~$120 when I priced them. I
would think you could sleeve the rotors with hardened machined tubing, and press in
the races with sleeve retainer .... or order the Bendix rotors.

If you are concerned about using a sleeve, also keep in mind Turner uses a bearing
spacer on the spindle to make up for the Ford rotor bearing spread being closer.

Tom

[feralcat0_0]

sbca96, Thank you for your answer. No, I did not replace the rotors. Was trying to installthe supplied bearings in Daves rotor. Idon't have a problem with a spacer. In fact, I've been trying to find a machinest who would be able to do this.
Thanks for all the help from every one.

[52 Ragtop]

Tom,
That makes no sense! IF that rotor is made for a specific vehicle, then, the original bearings should work. IF it is made for a Chrysler (whatever, I do not know what he used) then a rotor made by other vendors than Bendix should work. UNLESS, it is boxed wrong, which I have run into with theMustang rotors.
Dave's kit uses a spacer inside the rotor, where as my kit uses a spacer on the spindle. The use of a spacer is needed because the Studebaker spindles are extremely long compared to most others.
BTW, Bendix rotors are also made in China, I ran raybestos out of US made rotors about 5 or 6 years ago. However, although expensive, the Mustang crowd will not let the Mustang rotors go away! That is the main reason I stay with those, That and the fact that other than the spacer on the spindle, there are no other modifications needed.

Jim

[1962larksedan]

Tom,
That makes no sense! IF that rotor is made for a specific vehicle, then, the original bearings should work. IF it is made for a Chrysler (whatever, I do not know what he used) then a rotor made by other vendors than Bendix should work. UNLESS, it is boxed wrong, which I have run into with theMustang rotors.
Dave's kit uses a spacer inside the rotor, where as my kit uses a spacer on the spindle. The use of a spacer is needed because the Studebaker spindles are extremely long compared to most others.
BTW, Bendix rotors are also made in China, I ran raybestos out of US made rotors about 5 or 6 years ago. However, although expensive, the Mustang crowd will not let the Mustang rotors go away! That is the main reason I stay with those, That and the fact that other than the spacer on the spindle, there are no other modifications needed.

Jim

That alone is a very good reason to stay with said Mustang parts since people will be keeping them on the road till there are no more cars as we know them.

[Skybolt]

Tom,
That makes no sense! IF that rotor is made for a specific vehicle, then, the original bearings should work. IF it is made for a Chrysler (whatever, I do not know what he used) then a rotor made by other vendors than Bendix should work. UNLESS, it is boxed wrong, which I have run into with theMustang rotors.
Dave's kit uses a spacer inside the rotor, where as my kit uses a spacer on the spindle. The use of a spacer is needed because the Studebaker spindles are extremely long compared to most others.
BTW, Bendix rotors are also made in China, I ran raybestos out of US made rotors about 5 or 6 years ago. However, although expensive, the Mustang crowd will not let the Mustang rotors go away! That is the main reason I stay with those, That and the fact that other than the spacer on the spindle, there are no other modifications needed.

Jim

That is the main reason I went with the Mustang/Granada set up. They are easy to sorce and cheap enough to replace. The Camaro caliper I used are also going to be available. An upgrade for either is a bolt on option.

[sbca96]

From memory I believe it was a 1972 Dodge Coronet. The rotor is used without a spacer.
This is the 12 inch setup that I am referring too. I think he had a Mustang 11 inch just like
Turners, but I didnt seek info on that. I wanted larger, or I would have stuck with the 11
inch factory disc Studebaker used. The bearing info I agree was confusing. One bearing
is going to fit either, or how would you make it work. Keep in mind I am posting from my
memory, which is only so accurate. I have the emails saved somewhere I think ....

I ended up designing my own setup, to use truely modern brakes. I have a 13 inch vented
rotor with aluminum two piston PBR calipers that cost around Turners 11" setup. I am still
trying to find a new CNC shop to produce my brackets, or I might redesign into steel. That
would reduce my overhead. My most recent quote was from a manual shop, his hours to
make them put the price way out of consideration.

Tom

[feralcat0_0]

Gentelmen; I did find a machinest to make some sleeves for my bearings. I should have them tomorow. Just over $125, which I feel is a decent price. Won't be able to report on their useability as there is a couple years work to do before it's drivable.
Thanks again for all your help.

[sbca96]

Congrats, sorry about the difficulty. There was a day when Levesque was the go-to guy for
quite a lot of performance parts, he was the originator of the GM adapter. I dealt with him
in those days and bought a lot of parts for my '60 Hawk. My brother even required his help
in the middle of the night during a cross country trip with his wife and baby. His '64 Daytona
broke down, rear axle trouble. Dave helped him tear down the car at his house & get him
back on his way to Michigan. At any rate, glad you solved your issue.

Tom

[52 Ragtop]

I looked into the part number above 141025, fits a 1969 Ford LTD, t-Bird etc. The correct wheels bearings for those rotors are A-2 and A-6, which is ALSO the correct wheel bearings for Studebakers! Either that rotor is wrong! OR the wheels bearings you have are wrong. SOMETHING is not right!

IF your rotors are new, look on the edge, sometimes the part number is stamped on it. You have your "problem" solved for now, but, what happens when you need rotors? Maybe you will be lucky and the part number is on the edge.

Jim