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  • New starter issue

    So not having a mill at my avail, I am just not able to make the GM mini starter work on the Stude. The gear itself will work, but it wont extend quite far enough for me to be comfortable with it. The stock starter throws out at least 5/8" maybe a bit more but the mini starter is about 1/2" maybe a bit less. That engagement is a bit too shallow for me. If i could get the bendix gear on the starter to be a few thousandths from the ring gear it may throw out far enough, but the face block of the mini starter would need to have a 1/4" milled off and I dont have that capability.
    It could be done for you machinist out there.

    So I am back to making a stock starter work. I have a 3 speed w/OD trans from a '52 Commander. I will be installing a '63 259 in it this week.

    The starter in it has a few numbers on it. There is some sort stamoing I cant read looks like 2 xx's but then there is an 8 the a space then 64. Then under that there is a 3537. It looks like this.

    8 64
    3537

    First off, what do I have currently?
    Second, is there a part number that I can use when I convert to 12v?
    Third, Where can I find one?

    It has been suggested that I just have mine rebuilt, and that may be what I need to do, but, I just feel like it may be a waste to rebuild it if it is 6v and then burn it up again in short time. I have used a 6v starter on 12v converted bugs before and they work fine, for a while.

    Input?

    12v to 6v reducer is always possible, but I hate that slow crank of the 6v starters personally. I want a daily driver here.

  • #2
    The 6V starter will last a Looooooooooooooooooooooong time on 12Volts. It's likely I have one layin' about here somewhere. There's no ID tag on your starter? How about a photo of it?
    No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

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    • #3
      I have used this guy, Alex electric many times over the past 20 years, with success, and a have high level of trust. There are several other palaces around Riverside whom I've tried once, and would never recommend, I'll just say English isn't their primary language and hammers are their primary tool. Not so with Alex. Last 2 starters they did were for a 38 and 40 Packard 8, about $225-$260 each for those, and they were smoked. Not cheap. The 6 volt should last a long time on 12V, been there, done that, as they say.
      Alex Auto Electric
      18721 5th St (corner of Cedar and 5th. Cedar south of the 10Fwy. Rubiodoux Blvd, about 5 miles north off 60Fwy.)
      Bloomington, CA 92316
      (909) 877-1314
      sigpic
      Ross.
      Riverside, Ca.
      1957 Provincial X2
      1958 Transtar

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      • #4
        I've been using a 6 volt starter in my 12 volt '55 Land Cruiser for three years now, it generally starts on the first cylinder up, but if not cranks well, until it does start. I make a point of not cranking for more than 8 or so seconds without a little (couple of seconds) breather, but I expect my grandkids to be using this starter eventually. Go for it.

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        • #5
          Bob: It doesn't have any tags other than the numbers I posted. I was hoping the "8 64" was a production date and it is 12v and that is why it is cranking slow, it has been used on 6v which will burn up an electric motor.

          RossStude: Thanks for the fairly local heads up. I will start there. Chunk of money though. But if it works right, that is fine.

          Tom: Starts on first pop, are you running an electronic ignition or still on points?

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          • #6
            6Volt starter on 12Volts

            64 Champ long bed V8
            55/53 Studebaker President S/R
            53 Hudson Super Wasp Coupe

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            • #7
              Assuming that you had the correct course toothed Flywheel to match the 6V Starter, and a properly "dialed-in" Bell Housing, this "should" not have happened, judging by the many on 12 volts that have not.
              StudeRich
              Second Generation Stude Driver,
              Proud '54 Starliner Owner
              SDC Member Since 1967

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              • #8
                I doubt that is from using a 6v powered by 12v. That is really only hard on the windings because of heat from the extra voltage. That I would say is likely from having been dropped at some point by someone, Or just plain old fatigue. JMHO though

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                • #9
                  My family has a couple of Studes with original 6V starters running on 12V with regular use. My uncle's '51 Champion, for example, has been that way for probably 25 years.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by mbstude View Post
                    My family has a couple of Studes with original 6V starters running on 12V with regular use. My uncle's '51 Champion, for example, has been that way for probably 25 years.
                    It has also broken 2 nose cones in exactly the same way. We discovered that if you use a low amp 12 volt battery, it seems less likely.
                    Neil Thornton

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                    • #11
                      Did not know that. Interesting!

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