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**studegary** · 06-06-2007, 05:16 PM

I have towed many Studebakers with a tow bar. Everything from between towns or counties to between states. The front end geometry of post-1951 Studebakers make them harder to tow bar than most cars, but it can be done. You should make turns as gradual as possible and be sure that both vehicles are moving straight forward before trying to turn. The problem that I see in your picture is the mis-match in heights. I see a quick stop causing a vertical jack-knife and the destruction of that nice grille.

Gary L.
Wappinger, NY

1959 DeLuxe pickup (restomod)

**studegary** · 06-06-2007, 05:16 PM

I have towed many Studebakers with a tow bar. Everything from between towns or counties to between states. The front end geometry of post-1951 Studebakers make them harder to tow bar than most cars, but it can be done. You should make turns as gradual as possible and be sure that both vehicles are moving straight forward before trying to turn. The problem that I see in your picture is the mis-match in heights. I see a quick stop causing a vertical jack-knife and the destruction of that nice grille.

Gary L.
Wappinger, NY

1959 DeLuxe pickup (restomod)

**lstude** · 06-06-2007, 05:22 PM

Thanks Gary. Yeah, I need to lower that ball.

**lstude** · 06-06-2007, 05:22 PM

Thanks Gary. Yeah, I need to lower that ball.

**DEEPNHOCK** · 06-06-2007, 05:57 PM

Take a long bungee cord and take a couple of wraps around the LH edge of the steering wheel. Pull the two ends out the door and slam the door with the bungee cord pinched in the jamb.
That'll stop the wheel flip problem and still allow some turning.
Then flat tow in fearful bliss...
Jeff[8D]

quote:Originally posted by lstude

South Bend came upon me too fast and my 52 is not ready for a 1500 mile trip so I am going to tow it to the meet.

I had a tow bar made when I first got the car. It tows fine except for one big problem.

When I make a sharp turn the Studebaker's front wheels turn the opposite direction and lock so they just drag. I was told that is was because I didn't have an engine in it and the front end was too light. But now the engine is in and I still have the problem.

I strap the steering wheel by inserting bungie cords in between the vent window and door frame which seems to work.

My friend who tows his Honda behind his motor home says that I shouldn't have to tie the steering wheel.

Has anyone had this experience? Any suggestions.

DEEPNHOCK at Gmail.com
Brooklet, Georgia
'37 Coupe Express (never ending project)
'37 Coupe Express Trailer (project)
'61 Hawk (project)
http://community.webshots.com/user/deepnhock

**DEEPNHOCK** · 06-06-2007, 05:57 PM

Take a long bungee cord and take a couple of wraps around the LH edge of the steering wheel. Pull the two ends out the door and slam the door with the bungee cord pinched in the jamb.
That'll stop the wheel flip problem and still allow some turning.
Then flat tow in fearful bliss...
Jeff[8D]

quote:Originally posted by lstude

South Bend came upon me too fast and my 52 is not ready for a 1500 mile trip so I am going to tow it to the meet.

I had a tow bar made when I first got the car. It tows fine except for one big problem.

When I make a sharp turn the Studebaker's front wheels turn the opposite direction and lock so they just drag. I was told that is was because I didn't have an engine in it and the front end was too light. But now the engine is in and I still have the problem.

I strap the steering wheel by inserting bungie cords in between the vent window and door frame which seems to work.

My friend who tows his Honda behind his motor home says that I shouldn't have to tie the steering wheel.

Has anyone had this experience? Any suggestions.

DEEPNHOCK at Gmail.com
Brooklet, Georgia
'37 Coupe Express (never ending project)
'37 Coupe Express Trailer (project)
'61 Hawk (project)
http://community.webshots.com/user/deepnhock

**N8N** · 06-06-2007, 06:02 PM

The reason you have this problem is because the earlier iteration of the late-style front suspension actually had *negative* caster for lighter steering effort. If you HAVE to flat tow a Stude any appreciable distance you should have the front end realigned with as much positive caster as you can possibly get. However I am not sure if you can even get positive caster prior to the change in the kingpins.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight

http://members.cox.net/njnagel

**N8N** · 06-06-2007, 06:02 PM

The reason you have this problem is because the earlier iteration of the late-style front suspension actually had *negative* caster for lighter steering effort. If you HAVE to flat tow a Stude any appreciable distance you should have the front end realigned with as much positive caster as you can possibly get. However I am not sure if you can even get positive caster prior to the change in the kingpins.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight

http://members.cox.net/njnagel

**BobPalma** · 06-06-2007, 06:11 PM

Leonard: It looks like you have an adequate tow vehicle.

The reality of the proposed journey is this: You'll be so beat by the time you arrive in South Bend after fighting that thing for 1500 miles that you won't be able to enjoy the week, thinking about having to repeat the process to get home.

[}

] So at the risk of offending anyone,[:0] here's the only advice I'd ever tender, as we discussed in The Co-Operator within the last year:

[u]RENT</u> a four-wheel car trailer!

BP

**BobPalma** · 06-06-2007, 06:11 PM

Leonard: It looks like you have an adequate tow vehicle.

The reality of the proposed journey is this: You'll be so beat by the time you arrive in South Bend after fighting that thing for 1500 miles that you won't be able to enjoy the week, thinking about having to repeat the process to get home.

[}

] So at the risk of offending anyone,[:0] here's the only advice I'd ever tender, as we discussed in The Co-Operator within the last year:

[u]RENT</u> a four-wheel car trailer!

BP

**lstude** · 06-06-2007, 06:24 PM

quote:RENT a four-wheel car trailer! BP

I think I will do that. Just towing it from the muffler shop today tired me out. [xx(]

**lstude** · 06-06-2007, 06:24 PM

quote:RENT a four-wheel car trailer! BP

I think I will do that. Just towing it from the muffler shop today tired me out. [xx(]

**StudeRich** · 06-06-2007, 06:48 PM

I have done this for literally over ten thousand miles, here are some of the things I have learned from this:
(1) Make sure you have very good BRAKES on the tow vehicle! And try not to use a lighter than the towed car, tow vehicle.
(2) You must absolutely CRAWL up any driveway aprons, especially those you hit on an angle, which is all gas station entrances! The weaving wheels & eventual lock-up will happen.
(3) As mentioned...turn slowly, as wide as possible AND never turn the wheel without moving!
(4) Of course, drive with a lot of distance and be looking FAR ahead.
(5) The longer tow bars work better than short ones, I did it the hard way before learning that, with a short "A" shaped bar.
(6) Always wire the tail light harness where it disconnects from the dash harness at steering column with a jumper harness for tail and turn lights to the trailer plug on the tow car/truck.
(7) Use the required dual safety chains routed near the tow bar center-line to allow full turning when needed.
(8) Keep speed down to 55 to 60 MPH, especially in traffic.
(9) If the wagging starts you MUST fully STOP dead and re-start to stop it!
(10) Most straight ahead driving is a piece of cake, it's the slow turns that are a problem, and do avoid dirt, gravel, loose surfaces as that causes the wandering also.
(11) It would help to know if the alignment is good, especially tow-in and as little negative caster as possible.
(12) Check & grease the front wheel bearings and make sure all brakes are not too tight and rear grease seals are not leaking, I had a wheel lock-up from 90 WT soaked rear linings, good thing I had the drum puller to get in there and remove the shoes!
(13 I guess you have a standard shift so disconnecting the driveshaft may not be necessary, if the lube is full. Might still be a good idea though!

It really is not as bad as it sounds, but IS a bit of a challenge! I must have been up and down the West Coast 15 or more times both directions from almost Canada to almost Mexico towing one '54 to '64 Studebaker with another and with U-Haul trucks, the worst was when some cars would not track and had to be stopped on sharp turns to straighten the wheels. That never happened on the Highway, just in town going to Gas stations etc. One trucker told me to tie the wheels, but that just scuffed the tires and set up a "twist" in the front end where the outside front corner was high and the inside (of the turn) front corner was low and locked.

I now use a full car trailer, had no luck with axle dollies, and don't like the no protection for the car thing.

StudeRich
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA

**StudeRich** · 06-06-2007, 06:48 PM

I have done this for literally over ten thousand miles, here are some of the things I have learned from this:
(1) Make sure you have very good BRAKES on the tow vehicle! And try not to use a lighter than the towed car, tow vehicle.
(2) You must absolutely CRAWL up any driveway aprons, especially those you hit on an angle, which is all gas station entrances! The weaving wheels & eventual lock-up will happen.
(3) As mentioned...turn slowly, as wide as possible AND never turn the wheel without moving!
(4) Of course, drive with a lot of distance and be looking FAR ahead.
(5) The longer tow bars work better than short ones, I did it the hard way before learning that, with a short "A" shaped bar.
(6) Always wire the tail light harness where it disconnects from the dash harness at steering column with a jumper harness for tail and turn lights to the trailer plug on the tow car/truck.
(7) Use the required dual safety chains routed near the tow bar center-line to allow full turning when needed.
(8) Keep speed down to 55 to 60 MPH, especially in traffic.
(9) If the wagging starts you MUST fully STOP dead and re-start to stop it!
(10) Most straight ahead driving is a piece of cake, it's the slow turns that are a problem, and do avoid dirt, gravel, loose surfaces as that causes the wandering also.
(11) It would help to know if the alignment is good, especially tow-in and as little negative caster as possible.
(12) Check & grease the front wheel bearings and make sure all brakes are not too tight and rear grease seals are not leaking, I had a wheel lock-up from 90 WT soaked rear linings, good thing I had the drum puller to get in there and remove the shoes!
(13 I guess you have a standard shift so disconnecting the driveshaft may not be necessary, if the lube is full. Might still be a good idea though!

It really is not as bad as it sounds, but IS a bit of a challenge! I must have been up and down the West Coast 15 or more times both directions from almost Canada to almost Mexico towing one '54 to '64 Studebaker with another and with U-Haul trucks, the worst was when some cars would not track and had to be stopped on sharp turns to straighten the wheels. That never happened on the Highway, just in town going to Gas stations etc. One trucker told me to tie the wheels, but that just scuffed the tires and set up a "twist" in the front end where the outside front corner was high and the inside (of the turn) front corner was low and locked.

I now use a full car trailer, had no luck with axle dollies, and don't like the no protection for the car thing.

StudeRich
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA

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