Brakes: M/C for disc brake cars

[Scott]

Does anyone know what the bore is for the single chamber master cylinder used with 63-66 disc brake equipped cars? Is it one inch or something else?

[bezhawk]

Yes, 1" is correct.

[Scott]

Thank you!

[Studebakercenteroforegon]

If we are speaking about Lark/Avanti firewall mounted disc brake master cylinders, 1" is not correct. These cylinders are 1-1/8" bore.

[Scott]

This is on my 66 Cruiser. I was looking at either Cardone 10-36706 or Wagner 36706.

[1962larksedan]

This is on my 66 Cruiser. I was looking at either Cardone 10-36706 or Wagner 36706.

I believe a 1970's dual reservoir Mopar master cylinder will bolt up to your booster. You will need to split the brake lines (front and back) but that's easy (I just did a dual MC conversion on my 1962 Lark a couple of days ago).

[Scott]

I don't know if that will work with disc brakes, though.

[1962larksedan]

I don't know if that will work with disc brakes, though.

Note later Avantis all had dual master cylinders starting 1967...........and, they used the original Studebaker disc brakes up front till ca. 1985.

[52 Ragtop]

early 70's Chrysler will bolt right on, you will need to adjust the rod between the M/C & booster I do not remember the part number right now, but I think if you look in April 2001 Turnering Wheels in the tech section, the number is in there.

Jim

[Gunslinger]

1976 full size Chrysler disc brake master cylinder interchanges...$14.99 at Pep Boys.

[Orestudeguy]

Somewhere I read that a 1973 Plymouth Gran Fury (?) has a power booster/ m/cyl that is very similar to the Stude set up.
If Scott decides to go the split m/cyl unit, which brake line goes where?
Also, will we need to put a proportionng valve in line?

[1962larksedan]

Somewhere I read that a 1973 Plymouth Gran Fury (?) has a power booster/ m/cyl that is very similar to the Stude set up.
If Scott decides to go the split m/cyl unit, which brake line goes where?
Also, will we need to put a proportionng valve in line?

Assuming that disc brake Studes did not have proportioning valves; I would simply take the present hard line from the junction block and plumb it into the 'disc' brake sides of the master cylinder. Then (assuming the layout is the same as my 1962 Lark) remove the hard line from the above junction that runs to the union on the driver's side frame rail, cap off the former (3/16" plug available from NAPA, etc.), run a 5' 3/16" hard line to the 'drum' brake MC port, bleed, road test and call it a day.

[StudeRich]

If we are speaking about Lark/Avanti firewall mounted disc brake master cylinders, 1" is not correct. These cylinders are 1-1/8" bore.

The 1 1/8" M/C's are incorrect replacements, possibly Chrysler units.

When using any Chrysler Single system round reservoir Master Cylinder, (use only 1 inch) you must remove their residual valve (when included), rubber boot, their type of Piston retaining cover and (2) screws and replace with the SINGLE, simple beveled head screw and retaining ring from a Studebaker M/C.

[Scott]

Well my head is spinning, but hopefully George understands all this. The bottom line is that I know I can get the correct MC from a Studebaker vendor, but as much as I want to support those guys this is a case where if I can find the correct replacement for $50-$75, it makes more sense to do that than spend $150 to get one (probably the same item) from a Stude vendor. It would also leave me more money to get really unique items from them.

[Rafe Hollister]

I've noticed that too, 2 or 3 times the price from Studebaker venders on some stuff.

[Orestudeguy]

Scott,
I know what to do.
But it's your car and your cash. Let me know!!!