You said ask questions! ;) I've got a few already

[Oregon59]

Howdy,

Last week I did an introduction thread about my new to me car. A 1959 Studebaker Lark VIII. I was looking for someone to hold my hand through the restoration...but then I thought "I can do this". So I started tear down just the other day. I'm keeping track of parts and pieces having labeled the majority of them. to be honest I never restored a car before so I feel a bit over my head. Thank you all for being a resource.

I did use the search feature on a few of these and I have some ideas for the hood alignment. If you can direct me to any relevant threads you remember that would be great.

Photos:

http://imgur.com/a/qVyO0

The link is safe and it is a Gallery with about 10 photos.

Questions:
1) This is going to be a daily driver and when I get it sanded (to the metal) I'll probably just have it sprayed by MAACO or a similar service. That being said I can not get the nuts on the bumper mount to budge...52 years of being wet. Do you think I would be alright in covering them and having the painters shoot a little behind the bumper? I can sand under it just fine, but getting paint in there might prove tricky.

2) There is a picture of a spot I sanded, to the metal it with 60 grit. It feels smooth but as you should be able to see there is a lot of swirling. Should I go over it again with 120 or 300 to be sure it is smooth and those swirls do not come through the paint.

3) There is a seized screw in the taillight housing, I've tried some liquid wrench, hand tools, a power drill. I wouldn't be hurting it by just drilling the screw out would I?

4) The trunk is rusty, but not rusted out. I was going to sand the loose rust and then paint it with a rust specific sealant like POR 15. Do you all think this would be acceptable.

5) Having trouble removing the small grills up front, any ideas? I'm going to go look for some small crescent type wrenches that might fit in the tight space.

6) Lastly the hood. I've read about Studebaker hoods being difficult, mine it appears is no different. I've got new springs on the way for the mechanisms on both sides, the ones that are on there are beyond useless. Other then that the lifts/mechanisms appear to be tight and complete, I apologize for not knowing what the different parts are called! The hood strikes the fender in the corners near the cowl AND pinches in the middle of the hood up against the cowl, so three points that it gets hung up on. When closed the corners of the hood closest to the windshield stick up from the fenders about 1/2 inch. Any ideas? I am thinking about taking it to an auto body shop and letting a pro fix it. Only because I would hate to 'fix it' myself and then have the new paint torn off the first time I open the thing.

Wow, that was longer then I thought it was going to be. I'm sorry, help me out if you'd like, click back if you don't! Thanks again for being open to helping an absolute newbie like myself.

-Micah

[ddub]

One thing to do is read this page:

http://studebakerdriversclub.com/tech_things2do.asp

[jclary]

Just take your time and you will do fine. If you feel like you need to be in a hurry and get too impatient to get the job done...take a deep breath and then repeat "half fast" rapidly three times. By the time your are finished, you will have heard what the work will be like if you rush the job.

It won't hurt to wring off a bolt or two. There are few fasteners on the car that can't be replaced with newer and unrusted ones. Get the bumpers off. If you have not already, get the three manuals (shop, body, and chassis) for your car. That will help to identify and locate things you need, or parts, when you need to order something. Vendors have a difficult time filling orders for doohickies and thing-a-ma-jigs.

As far as the cheapo paint job, it will probably be better than what you have now, but any trim you can safely remove will help you get the car prepped for a better result.

Good luck with your project, take some pictures and keep us informed of your progress.

[kurtruk]

If it's gonna be a daily driver, I would have left the paint as is. Yes, once you get the hood problem solved you're going to need a little primer and maybe some close match paint, then you're good to go!

If you'r a first-timer, make sure you have a plan and realistic goals. Don't get in too deep. One area at a time. Complete disassembly is where many "projects" end, never to be re-assembled.

[COMMANDERPINK1]

Get a digital camera and take as many pictures of the tear down before dismantling so to help in identifing and reassembly.
Tom

[COMMANDERPINK1]

2) There is a picture of a spot I sanded, to the metal it with 60 grit. It feels smooth but as you should be able to see there is a lot of swirling. Should I go over it again with 120 or 300 to be sure it is smooth and those swirls do not come through the paint.


From the look in your photo there are alot of discolored spots showing, from my experience those spot could mean prior paint contamination possibly from moistureand that would lead to poor adhesion to the panel requiring removal of the finish to bare metal and then a metal etch primer applied. But I have also seen this covered up with another good coating of primer and being fine for years. The car appears to have been painted once aready so now you will need to consider the paint film thickest with yet another priming and painting.
Tom

[52 Ragtop]

Ok, I'll take a shot! Remember, DO NOT get the bare metal too smooth! primer will NOT stick! What you have is perfectly fine for a GOOD coat of etching primer, followed by a few coats of a GOOD 2 part epoxy primer. (soap box time) Go out and buy a GOOD respirator for spraying, one with replaceable filters! Keep the respirator in a sealed plastic bag as the filters WILL absorb moisture from the air, and will not be any good!

If you are doing any body work, rough up th metal before applying the filler. Plastic filler is NOT meant to be used for much more than a skim coat to smooth things out. Do not just fill in any dents, as that's when it WILL fail and crack out. I have filler on my 52 that has been on for over 20 years.
Do ONE panel at a time, and get it done and primed, then move on to the next panel. You will not be overwelmed with all the work. Be sure to use a block when sanding any filler.

Jim

[COMMANDERPINK1]

This will set off all sorts of alarms, but stick to one product line start to finish!
Tom

[barnlark]

Questions:
1) That being said I can not get the nuts on the bumper mount to budge...52 years of being wet. Do you think I would be alright in covering them and having the painters shoot a little behind the bumper? I can sand under it just fine, but getting paint in there might prove tricky.
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I would get a decent air compressor and a round air controlled cutting tool. I would cut the nuts off on the frame holding the assembly together and then slide the bumper and brackets out as one piece. Then cut the other ones behind the bumpers after it's out. Do not ruin the square, flat washers under them. You can also torch them off to avoid errant cutting. New chrome capped bumper bolts may be purchased by many vendors. Don Simmons who advertises in Turning Wheels for Silvertone Mufflers has them for sure. You will be happy you started with fresh bolts and nuts for future adjustments. If you are going to take the paint down to metal, don't give up on a couple wimpy old rusty bolts.
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2) I'm not a paint and body guy. Sorry I'm am zero help there.
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3) There is a seized screw in the taillight housing, I've tried some liquid wrench, hand tools, a power drill. I wouldn't be hurting it by just drilling the screw out would I?
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If you are careful, you can drill that out. Use a very small drill bit first. If you lie on the floor with the tire out, you may be able to back that screw back out with vise grips between the fender and the trunk panel. Tight space but it is possible. I assume you have the lens off. Go slowly and carry a gentle drill.
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4) The trunk is rusty, but not rusted out. I was going to sand the loose rust and then paint it with a rust specific sealant like POR 15. Do you all think this would be acceptable.
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I'm a fan of renting a small sand blaster and using a self etching primer/sealer after it's super clean. The POR is good stuff for many things, but on some it will cause bad words to be brought forth when removing things later. It is also quite permanent and messy. It gets on everything. Think about it before you use it in the trunk. Do it right. I nice solid trunk painted nicely (in your case it was gray on all models) is a thing of beauty.
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5) Having trouble removing the small grills up front, any ideas? I'm going to go look for some small crescent type wrenches that might fit in the tight space.
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Do yourself a favor, get a gear wrench. Those are then best approached by taking the headlights out and main grill mesh. That requires crawling underneath the car and removing the majority of the speed nuts on the main grill. Either that, or remove the radiator, but it doesn't have to come out. The access is amazingly easy after you have removed that grill. It's a tight spot and a gear wrench is a must. NAPA has a nice one with multiple box sizes. You'll never regret the purchase of at least two sizes of those.
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6) Lastly the hood....
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Play with this after you prep and paint the car. The cowl rubber strip will change it all. You have to knock out the two knurled flat head nails that hold that rubber strip on to the cowl at each end. They can be tapped out from under the dash, or vise gripped from the top. Now that you've ripped into the paint. it's a great time to remove those nails. Get all new hood bumper rubbers, too. Pop out the old dried up ones from inside the fender well.
If your hood looks like it's been bent even a little, that hood top hinge rod & hood hinge torsion link may feel okay and look okay, but may not be. New springs will tell the tale. It needs to lift up properly and smoothly to not bang your fender tops. Only lift it just beyond the prop rod height if possible. It takes two people tweaking the hood back and forth and adjusting the castle nuts just right to get it all just right. It needs patient time to get the gaps right, too.
Also, make sure the hood latch receiver is reinstalled and tightened toward the passenger side as much as possible so the hood doesn't pop up. Bob Palma helped me with that nagging problem as seen in the latest TW, and it absolutely worked. Lastly, NEVER put the hood parts back together without installing the safety latch...ever. It is your last hope of not having the hood blow up under road condition stress on an old Stude body. On your '59 that safety latch hits the front panel on the way down, (bad design fixed later in the Lark series) so remember that crucial fact after your fresh paint job to avoid embarrassing tears. I'd remove it for Maaco paint under everything, then install it at their shop after it's done. They will drop the hood and chip the new paint for sure. You will have to remember to hold it in each time you close the hood from now until eternity. You will have hit your head on the main hood latch by then to remind yourself, though.

Good luck. Just trying to help. Others may disagree and offer other ideas.
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[ddub]

I have exactly the same problem with the hood of my 64 Champ. When open and sitting on the prop rod, the back corners rest on the fender tops. What will cure this, new springs? It fits reasonably well closed. It also binds in the center if I don't pull forward when opening. I want to get this sorted before I refresh the paint.

[barnlark]

I have exactly the same problem with the hood of my 64 Champ. When open and sitting on the prop rod, the back corners rest on the fender tops. What will cure this, new springs? It fits reasonably well closed. It also binds in the center if I don't pull forward when opening. I want to get this sorted before I refresh the paint.

The rod and torsion hinge links are shot, or have been overly sprung. You can find a '59-'60 parts car and get another, which I did, or swap with an understanding friend and see if another changes the height. Lube it up and try that with new springs. Another one from a parts car simply worked for me. Maybe SI still has them in their SB warehouse? Worth a shot.

[woodysrods]

Find a local restoration shop or specialty bodyshop and start hanging out there! There is always some bodyman that likes his job and old cars that will be willing to talk to you and give you good advice. About product and body tips.
Disassemble everything! If bolts are stuborn, get a long handled socket driver and tighten them rather than trying to losen them....they WILL break!(Only bolts that have nuts on the back) Replace almost every bolt you take out if you can....it is cheaper than cleaning them unless you have a beadblast cabinet and a lot of free time.
Good Luck
Good Roads
Brian

[studeclunker]

As I recall... there are two springs that must be installed that run from the torsion bar forward to the fenders to make that Early Lark hood open and close properly. To clairify; you have two springs that go straight down, one on each side (PN: 1620-14), I believe these are the ones you replaced? There is another set which assists with the lifting of the hood. They go forward to small holes about 24" or so towards the front of the car. These do the 'pull forward' on the hood as it opens. Without these, there are numerous problems you will encounter including the bent corners you currently have. The forward springs aparently broke years ago and the owner never replaced them. Without them, your mechanic will do a number on your hood. This also goes for the Champ pickups, as they utilized the front clip from the '59 - '60 sedan.

Here's a shot of the spring from the Shop Manual it's refrerrence number 2 (double click on the picture to enlarge):



If you haven't ordered them yet, you seriously need a complete set of Shop Manual, Chassis Parts Catalog, and Body Parts Catalog. All of these will help you in what you are doing. Otherwise you are operating in the dark. They are available from several vendors, Studebaker International chief among them at about a hundred-fifty for the set. These will be your Bible for this car and are essential.

[barnlark]

As I recall... there are two springs that must be installed that run from the torsion bar forward to the fenders to make that Early Lark hood open and close properly. To clairify; you have two springs that go straight down, one on each side (PN: 1620-14), I believe these are the ones you replaced? There is another set which assists with the lifting of the hood. They go forward to small holes about 24" or so towards the front of the car. These do the 'pull forward' on the hood as it opens. Without these, there are numerous problems you will encounter including the bent corners you currently have. The forward springs aparently broke years ago and the owner never replaced them. Without them, your mechanic will do a number on your hood. This also goes for the Champ pickups, as they utilized the front clip from the '59 - '60 sedan.

There are not any extra 24" springs going to the fenders on his '59 Lark, Ron. The only springs are the two which go down to the cowl... straight down from those torsion bar hinges. Part number 284505P. The fenders are not involved. The hood sort of swivels forward on those hinges as they lift, but not much. My hood goes almost straight up.
Oregon59, when you get a Chassis Book an image is on page 436 to assist you. Email me if you need any original '59-'60 Chassis Parts and/or Body Parts books. I have a few left and I'm cleaning house.

[Warren Webb]

As far as the hood alignment goes I have 2 good examples here, my 60 Lark parts car & the 62 Champ. Both have the same hood hinge arrangement as yours. When the hood is fully closed is the hood even with the cowl & fenders (along the gaps)? Where the hinge bolts to the cowl make sure the hinge is bolted evenly with the level of the bracket on the cowl. It will probably be around 1/4" below the top of the bracket- thats where the horizontal level to the adjoining panels comes into effect. Adjustments would be easier if you have someone assisting holding the hood up & even better if you remove the spring while adjusting, then reinstall the spring before you check the alignment. It may be a bit tedious but well worth while. Let us know what you find & how you make out.