Studebaker Hawk model year?

[Wolfsburg]

Greetings gents!

I've run across this neglected Hawk that has been variously described as a 1959 and a 1961 model year. Which is it? I'm an acolyte when it comes to all things Studebaker but I'm thinking it's a 1959?

[fatboylust]

My guess is 1961. but on the passenger side of the firewall, under the hood there is a body tag and that will tell the story.

[studegary]

Welcome!
The Hawk appears to be a 1959 (possibly 1960), but definitely not a 1961.
Post the Serial Number from the driver's door A-pillar and/or the Body Plate information on the engine side of the cowl and we can tell you more.

[BobPalma]

Danny; it's either a 1959 or 1960.

We are all straining our eyballs to see if there are the remains of either Silver Hawk or just Hawk script on the upper rear portion of the fin. It's all but impossible to see that area clearly from the posted photo.

If you go back, look at the uppermost rear of each fin. If it says (or there is an outline of a removed emblem) that says Silver (in addition to Hawk), then it's a '59. If it just says (or said) Hawk, then it's a '60. BP

[DEEPNHOCK]

Definitely a '59 or '60.
('61 would have had an extra horizontal trim piece above the existing trim piece shown hanging loose in your pic).

Find out more about it, as the front frnders look real good (rust wise) for something setting outside.
Jeff

Greetings gents!

I've run across this neglected Hawk that has been variously described as a 1959 and a 1961 model year. Which is it? I'm an acolyte when it comes to all things Studebaker but I'm thinking it's a 1959?

[StudHawk60]

A '61 would have also had the "Hawk" emblem near the forward end of the fin. I also don't see any signs of the 3 louvers (sp?) that a '60 has on the fins......it's probably a '59. I sure would like to have some of that nice straight stainless trim.

[Wolfsburg]

Thanks so much gentlemen! This is a great forum!

The lack of the extra trim piece is what made me doubt it was a '61. I'll have to try and get a closer look and see what the VIN indicates and also get a closer look at the fins. I also don't see any sign of any emblems present.

The engine is apparently a V8 (a 259?) but I know little about what options the car does or doesn't have or the condition of the interior. Where are common places that these typically rust? Assuming the lower half and frame aren't rusted through, what might a ballpark valuation for the pictured car, as it sits, be?

[Anne F. Goodman]

It could be a 289 also the engine number will tell If it starts with a P it is usually a 289. V its a 259.
It could even be a 170 flat head 6.
They will correct me if I am mistaken.
Nice find ,if you could put where you are in your signature it helps us to help you. I would say $500. the way it sits .

[BobPalma]

Thanks so much gentlemen! This is a great forum!

The lack of the extra trim piece is what made me doubt it was a '61. I'll have to try and get a closer look and see what the VIN indicates and also get a closer look at the fins. I also don't see any sign of any emblems present.

The engine is apparently a V8 (a 259?) but I know little about what options the car does or doesn't have or the condition of the interior. Where are common places that these typically rust? Assuming the lower half and frame aren't rusted through, what might a ballpark valuation for the pictured car, as it sits, be?

If it is a 1959 model, it is a 259 V8. 1960 = 289 V8. 1959s were also available with a six. However, 1959 Hawk sixes did not have wheel opening moldings, and this car does. So unless someone added them, it is a V8 even if it is a 1959 model.

Rust first appeared along the rear vertical edge of the front fenders; the standard Studebaker "competition stripes" on either side. Next in line were he front floors, especially the outer edges near at the bottom of the "A" pillars where they attach to the floors, and, especially, the floors themselves. If it has been in the weeds like it is now, the bottom plate of the frame is also suspect as to having been compromised by rust.

Still, as Anne says, it is worth $500 all day long, even if to be parted out. That assumes the drive train is intact, regardless of its condition. BP

[Wolfsburg]

Yeah, the condition under the car is a big unknown right now. Is there any way to research the VIN or anything else to determine the original color, options, etc.?

[studegary]

Yeah, the condition under the car is a big unknown right now. Is there any way to research the VIN or anything else to determine the original color, options, etc.?

The original color name/number should be on a label on the bottom side of the glove box (it may not be still there since the label was glued on).

You can order the build sheet from the SNM. It will have all sorts of information, like equipment, engine number, where shipped to (if not a factory stock unit), key numbers, etc. You have to supply the Serial Number of the car to the SNM. The Serial Number is on a plate on the A-pillar (hinge area) of the driver's door.

[BobPalma]

Yes. First, you need the Serial Number.

It is stamped on a stainless steel plate between the upper and lower hinges on the drivers door hinge post. You must open the drivers door to see it. There is also a plate under the hood in the upper left corner of the engine room as you face the engine, but it is not the number(s) you need.

The serial number on this car will begin with either 59V or 60V, followed by four or five numbers only. Any other set of numbers and letters is not what you're looking for.

Send the Serial Number to The Studebaker National Museum. Consult their website for cost and particulars. They will be able to send you a copy of the original Production Order which will tell you more than you probably thought was available about the car. BP

[woodysrods]

My money was on 1959. I looked for the 3 little slashes on the fin as well?
Good Roads
Brian

[Milaca]

Another typical area of rust concern is the trunk floor being that the decklid gasket typically leaks allowing rain water to enter. Also open the doors and look at the bottom inside edge of the doors for rust, as the drain holes sometimes get clogged and don't allow rain water to drain through.
From what I can see, the most likely area of rust is everything near the ground. Parking a car on sod covered pasture/field subjects the bottom-side to a lot of moisture. If it only sat there for less than 5 years, it may be okay. Good luck and keep us posted!

[8E45E]

That would be a good TW cover photo as the car is complete, including the glass.

Craig