Transmission / Overdrive: Anyone done a 200-4R swap behind their Stude V-8?

[Hippie]

Tried a search but get zero results no matter what I put in sooooo. I'm contemplating swapping in a 200-4R behind my 289 to replace the T-86/OD in my '55. Has anyone here done it and what problems have you encountered? Thanks.

[PackardV8]

Yes, there have been a couple. I think Ernie had one in the Avanti he just listed for sale. The TH350, 700R4 and 200-4R all use the same bolt patterns. The swap isn't difficult, just expensive. You'll find you can't do a 200-R4 swap really right for less than $2500.

jack vines

[plwindish]

Bob Johnstones's Studebaker Resource page has information on completed trans swaps. You can access the page through the Avanti Owner's Association International home page, click on Resources, it will show the link to click. I think you will find it to be a very informative site for Studebakers and Avantis. I am doing a trans swap using the 200 R4 later this week for my '76 Avanti II. There is nothing wrong with the TH 400 I have now, but I'm interested in getting better mpg's on the road than the TH 400 can do behind the newly rebuilt 400 SBC in the car.

[41 Frank]

The adapter kits available, including the one I market, are set up to use a 12 volt starter so if your 55 is not 12 volt they won't work. I have done the swap and like Jack says it will run $2500 or more depending on what you are capable of doing yourself. By the time you buy a tranny, adapter kit, shifter setup, drive shaft mods, crossmember mods, tv cable and kit to adapt to your carb, converter lockup control, etc. you will have at least that in it.

[Mike Van Veghten]

I've got two ready for cars I'm working on.
One hot rod with a 383 Chevy. It's been worked over hard, trans. brake and all.
The second one...so far is just a lightly worked stocker, but I'm seriously thinking of having a secone done with a trans. brake for my 299 powered Conestoga by the same guy that did the first one.
He builds racing transmissions.

Same swap as all the rest of the Chevy transmissions...only in most cases better.
Smaller, lighter, good ratios, and if built by someone reputable, just as strong as most all Stude engines need.

Mike

[41 Frank]

I use a 200 4R behind my R-2 and have for about 5 years and drag race it too from time to time using slicks and it has held up well. Car runs high 13's in the quarter. No idea what is in it as far as parts is concerned as i bought it freshly rebuilt at a high performance swap meet.

[Hippie]

I guess I should have been more specific, sorry. I already have the 200-4R and am very familiar with their capabilities, that's why I picked it. A good friend owns a transmission shop so the peripherals like TV cable, lock up control, etc. won't be an issue and I have been there for a few 200-4R swaps into older GM cars. Driveshaft shortening and crossmember aren't an issue either. I recall seeing an adapter that had tabs for the stock bellhousing mounts, anyone use those in addition with a rear crossmember? I want to keep the bellhousing mounts, I'm not crazy about having that much distance between mounts. I remember guys with Tri-5 Chevies running the front mounts with a mount on the tailhousing and no support in the middle cracking transmission cases. Are there any clearance issues with the floor pan and has anyone adapted one to a stock AT column shift? I know it can be done in GM cars. Thanks again.

$2500 by the time I'm done? Sounds about right, I'm pretty sure I can bring it in a little under that though.

[Mike Van Veghten]

The only guy I know of that's done it...
Had to cut off the Olds./Pontiac "ears". That was all. As you know...the 200, is, overall, smaller than the rest of the GM automatics, so you should have no issues except maybe the top ears on the bellhousing.

Mike

[bige]

For the bellhousing mounts you probably could fabricate some brackets that you could attach with the existing trans to engine bolts but I think the cutaway shape of the bellhousing on the GM trans would make it impossible to attach the mounts to the trans itself.

A coupleof suggestions if you use the Myer's kit. Ask for the converter shim. On the first installation ( trans was in and out 4 time this go around ) the vibration from the converter was horrendous. The shim allows a snug fit of the converter nose in the flexplate adapter. There are different diameter converter noses I think so test fit beforehand. I used JB weld to secure the circular shim to the converter positioned so it would fit a little deeper into the adapter. If you take the time to test fit the converter to the flexplate you will see where it needs to be positioned. Once I did that the converter literally snapped into the flexplate insuring proper alignment and the result was no vibrations at all.

The second thing I would do is pin the adapter in place with centering ring still installed and the bolts to the engine tightened. I had to pull the trans to reposition the adapter because the starter wouldn't engage after a 10 mile drive. In my case the starter to flexplate distance left no wiggle room and the adapter moved enough to cause the starter gear to just grind away at the flex plate. So I drilled two holes through the adapter into the block and tapped a couple of roll pins in so there is zero chance of the adapter moving.

You will have to clearance the inside of the transmission bellhousing so that there is no interference between it and the adapter to engine bolts. It's very important that you remove enough material to completely clear the bolt heads. Since most grinding stones leave a curved area after grinding the center of the cut may be deep enough but the radius left by the stone or bit may hit the points of the bolt heads. If the trans doesn't mate completely flush all around alignment will be off or you could possibly stress the case to a point that it would crack.

Resist the temptation to use a fancy polyurethane trans mount. GM crossmembers are cushioned where they connect to the frame and they span a greater distance absorbing more vibration than the stubby foot long solid mount that you will need for the Stude. That Poly mount will transmit normal vibrations and amplify them to a level that they are not only annoying but they will have you convinced there's something wrong.

I don't know if the linkage you are using is like the one on the Avanti but if it is then it's spring loaded to extend at wide open throttle if necessary. The TV cable may provide enough resistance to cause the rod to extend under part throttle conditions. You may not get full carb opening or proper TV cable position if that rod extends. I tack welded mine so it couldn't extend, next choice would be to fabricate new linkage.

Those are the little things that don't become evident until you have literally removed and replaced GM transmissions in your Stude no less than 10 times! Now that I can confidently say I know where all the pitfalls are, I don't have the car anymore!

ErnieR

[Hippie]

Wow. Thanks Ernie! Taht's the kind of stuff I needed to know but didn't know enough about it to ask.

[wfhenderson]

Just completed an article on this swap that should run in the next issue of Avanti magazine. Send me your email address and I will send you an advance copy of the article. Results were fantastic.

Regards, Bill Henderson wfhenderson@yahoo.com

[Pat Dilling]

Please send to p.dilling@comcast.net also. Thanks!

Pat