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Brake Lines... simple question...

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  • Brakes: Brake Lines... simple question...

    Is it better to stay with Cu-Ni brake lines or get the SS ones?

  • #2
    I'm not sure what Cu-Ni brake lines are, but if it is a steel line made for brake systems, it will be fine. Stainless steel is nice and will last longer, but is not a necessity.
    "In the heart of Arkansas."
    Searcy, Arkansas
    1952 Commander 2 door. Really fine 259.
    1952 2R pickup

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    • #3
      CU-NI is made from Copper and Nickel... Easier to bend/flare than standard steel and a bit more expensive, but super nice to work with. I believe they are almost as corrosion resistant as SS.
      64 GT Hawk (K7)
      1970 Avanti (R3)

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      • #4
        I used Cunifer on my project car.

        I researched it and liked what I was reading. A local brake shop cut each line to the length specified in the parts book. I double checked the length of the old lines with a cloth tape and they were right on with the parts book. They installed the fittings on the end of each line with a double flare. They let me borrow their tubing bender over the weekend and I was able to match the original lines very closely. Except for the tight 90 degree bends near the ends of some of the lines the rest of the bends were done with my hands. No extra loops and bends to make up for excess tubing.

        The material and labor was $100. I took a long 1x4 board with me to tape the pieces to so that it could not get bent up. The young man at the brake shop even bent the shortest (and probably the toughest) piece using the sample I took in.

        Charlie D.
        Attached Files

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        • #5
          I've heard SS can be a bear to work with. My vote is for the Copper/Nickel.
          Might get a roll for my Cruiser, even though I have a roll of steel line on hand.

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          • #6
            Thanks guys. Copper Nickle it is then. I have a bender at the garage, so I will be fine there.

            A little more on the connectors, so far I have been fortunate... all of the brass pieces that "junction" the lines have been slavaged with no damage. I have one more to disassemble.... here is for hoping I didn't just jinx myself.....

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            • #7
              Originally posted by new2drive View Post
              Thanks guys. Copper Nickle it is then. I have a bender at the garage, so I will be fine there.

              A little more on the connectors, so far I have been fortunate... all of the brass pieces that "junction" the lines have been slavaged with no damage. I have one more to disassemble.... here is for hoping I didn't just jinx myself.....
              Penetrating oil!
              I've had good luck with PB Blaster. (I think that's the name. . .)

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              • #8
                Yes, PB blaster works great, but so far at work... (I am in charge of bringing in and trying out chemicals)... So far, a product called Kroil has beaten the pants of off PB Blaster, Presolve and a few others. Thats is what I use.... When I know what I will be working on I will pre-spray the parts ahead of time and let it do it's work.... then, when I am ready to work on said part, it is usually a lot easier to manage.

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