Fuel System: Carburetor seized - suggestions?

[55s]

The bottom shaft on my two barrel carburetor (with the two plates) is seized.

I've soaked it in transmission fluid/acetone for a day, and tapped the sides of the shaft. Still stuck.

Any suggestions?

[bige]

i'm a Wd 40 fan myself. Is there anything that's attached linkage-wise that may be the cuprit?

ErnieR

[bezhawk]

The bottom shaft on my two barrel carburetor (with the two plates) is seized.

I don't know....once those customs agents get ahold of something it usually takes a pretty big bribe!

[Don Jeffers]

One technique that has worked for me when the various penetrating oils alone don't do the trick: This method often takes days or weeks to complete. Patience is your friend.

Carefully and slowly back the brass screws out that hold in the throttle plates in position. Use a screwdriver that fits the screw heads really well. It sometimes helps to go back and forth, gently, with the screws as you remove them, until they turn easily. Save the screws somewhere safe like a small, clear pill bottle.

Then tap the throttle shaft a bit back and forth and gently twist a bit at a time as you soak the shaft and plate slots with penetrating oil. Be patient. It can take days if the carb is really frozen.

Eventually the shaft loosens and can be turned enough to drop the throttle plates out. Continue to use penetrating oil and move the shaft back and forth and gently twist until the shaft can be withdrawn, sometimes with the aid of a blunt punch on the end of the shaft. Polish the shaft, clean the bores.

Lube the bore and shaft. I use a little lubri-plate. Re-install the shaft. Slide the throttle plates back into position. Make certain the two throttle plates are still in phase. Check that you can't see daylight past the plates as they seat in the throttle bores.

The shaft with the two slots in it for the plates is easily twisted. If the shaft has been twisted somewhat, place the appropriate plate in position and carefully torque the shaft so the throttle plates are back in the same plane.

Once the plates are both parallel, reinstall the little brass throttle plate screws that you so carefully removed and put away in a safe place. Once the screws are gently tightened with the plates correctly positioned, place something on a vise that will allow you to back up the head of the little brass screws. Take a pointed punch and very gently spread the ends of the brass screws just enough so they don't back out and allow the plates to shift or the screws to fall into your engine. It might help to have someone steady the carb base as you do this.

I used this method on an Avanti R2 AFB a few years back and on a 54 Bendix-Stromberg a few months back. Works every time.

Continue on with your carb rebuild.

[bige]

Are you able to get those plate screws out without doing something to the ends? I always end up breaking them if I don't file the protruding ends.

ErnieR

[55s]

Got it!

Plate screws came out without filing the protruding ends.

Drift was used to drive the shaft out. Twisting action also helped, but shaft twisted and was not as solid as I thought, so I had to be careful.

Carburetor kit ordered - Temporarily put the carb together and V8 engine started right up and runs like a top.

OH NO! Another fixer upper! Car is top of the line 4 door 1960 Lark, with deluxe dash, nice interior, and the stainless around windows. (My son was going to install the dash in his Champ)

[Don Jeffers]

Are you able to get those plate screws out without doing something to the ends? I always end up breaking them if I don't file the protruding ends.

ErnieR

Getting the little brass screws out can be a problem.

Some are split on the end and spread at installation. Others are dimpled and swaged out at installation. In either case, gently working back and forth to resistance in each direction as they are coming out gently works the malleable brass back to the original screw diameter and shape and they can then be backed out all the way. A well fitting screwdriver is important for control. On re-installation they can be re-spread.

The brass is subject to fatigue failure, but gently working back and forth seems to be successful in minimizing fatigue. It's only when trying to move the brass too much in any one turn that I have had one fail. I usually only ever have to align the throttle plates once on any carburetor.

[bige]

Thanks...never thought about actually taking my time.

ErnieR

[warrlaw1]

A bent shaft can be straightened with a press. One must be careful not to flatten it, though. Patience is the key. My late father had some strange ideas. He ran over his 20 guage with the dual wheels of his dump truck. Put the barrel in a hydraulic press and straightened it by sight. He test fired it (Duhh!) and it worked fine. I still have it. I would not recommend his methods, but on a carb shaft, it just might be worth a try. Paul, I deserve a 60 Lark