First shop i took my '54 to. Any comments?
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Would you let this happen to your '54
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I've built some pretty nice cars in shops that looked as bad. I was more interested in the quality of the work than the neatness of my surroundings. BTW, most of the welds were TIG with the remainder MIG. Not all that much stronger, but much neater.
BobOwn \'53 Commander Starliner. Red w/beige top. 350 Chev/700R4. Tilt,cruise,A/C.http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j30/Bobphyl/StudeontheBeach.jpg
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Bob,
Looks pretty good for 1st step. From what I can see of the last picture, there is plenty of penetration. But, keep in mind, this looks to me like it will need some more welding in areas, but not all is lost. A little more work and That should allow him to really dress the surface down. If he, or you follow through, the welds should dress up nicely. Once it's dipped, or sandblasted and powdercoated/painted, it should look pretty darn good. You didn't say if you provided the aftermarket parts, or materials, nor did you say how much you paid the fella to do this work? Depending on your answer, I'd say that if you spent around $3 to $4k (including parts) you did all right.
What do you think?Bo
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Originally posted by spokejr View PostAs for the welding, yeh, he is working hard! At making a damn mess, he isn't getting any penitration. The last photo, those welds are coming gonna be coming apart soon!Last edited by junior; 03-19-2011, 04:24 PM.sigpic
1954 C5 Hamilton car.
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The welding problem is a common one when trying to weld plate over 1/4" with a domestic power supply, usually with the welder on the end of an extension lead. You just can't wring enough amps out of the welder to get good penetration. However, as the item is box shaped, and inherantly strong he will probably have no problems. That all said, domestic power supply here is 240 volts with 10 amps at the outlets. (by the way our outlets have switches - just a bit of trivia). If I'm using 10# welding rods I try not to use an extension lead, it just looses too much current, and tends to overheat the lead.
Granted it does need dressing up a bit with a grinder, but geeze you guys are a hard audience ;-)
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Thanks everyone for your input. The intention of posting my pics was to educate myself and receive reassurance that others would also be disatified if they had hired this individual. After a nine month association, the car was removed from the shop and frame work restarted. I am extremely pleased with the progress that is being made by the second shop and will be posting more pics next week.
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Bob, Aussie Hawk has a point that the welds would probably be ok, but I would have to agree with you, this is not professional work, and it is work that I would have a real difficult time paying for. IMO, you made the best choice by looking for someone else to do a better job. I still maintain the cutouts in the tubing pretty much make the extra metal added to the frame useless, and I know my welding instructor would not accept welds like that to be done. I bet you can't wait to get the car on the road. Juniorsigpic
1954 C5 Hamilton car.
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