Rear Axle: 1950 2R Pickup rear end conversion

[Danielle]

Hello! I have a 1950 2R pickup and the only thing keeping me from driving it is the drum brakes. When I went to bleed them two of the bleeders broke off. I have given up looking for the replacement parts because I have not been able to find the parts I need (I have been told that they do not make them any more). So I have decided to put a newer rear end under it- one that I can get parts for. Does anyone have any suggestions on what rear end I should put under it? I was told that a Chevy s10 is the same width of an 1950 2R Stude pickup but I have yet to compare measurements. I would greatly appreciate any advice you have to give!

[41 Frank]

Rear wheel cylinders for several 2R model trucks are readily available from several Studebaker parts vendors.www.studebakervendors.com

[PackardV8]

I would greatly appreciate any advice you have to give!

You've come to the right place for good advice, which is good, because you've been getting a lot of bad advice. As 41 Frank said, all you need is a couple of new wheel cylinders. While you're under there, replace all the steel brake lines. They're probably as rusty as the bleed screws.

For future reference, give the complete model nomenclature, as Studebaker made approximately twenty different 2R trucks.

jack vines

[52 Ragtop]

I also think that Chuck Collins has a way to convert to Chevy rear drums on his website. I think it's www.studebakerparts.com

Jim

[hawk58man]

Danielle,hi. you didn't say what kind of motor your R5 has? V8 0r 6 cyl,Studebaker or brand x.I have a 1955 Caddy rear end that was in my 51' R5 C cab with a stude 170 flatehead stude 6 cyl. I ran it with the R5 stock 4speed thats how I bought the truck and it worked fine.Just used 2,3,4th gears. I drove the truck with that rearend for 10 yrs. I think it has 355 hiway gears in it.I took out of that truck to put a roller rocker engine in it. And don't need it. If you decide its a possibility for getting your truck back on the road, let me know, and you can have it. I 'm outside Spokane Wa. Also, you can pull those wheel cylinders off and easy out the busted thread, put new longer bleeders,the stock ones were always to short and Napa carries longer ones that you won't have a problem with.. Good Luck and keep thoese R5's rollin' Mike

[Danielle]

Thank you all for your great advice! I am new to the Studebaker world and have a lot to learn! Due to my finance situation as a college student, I think the axle swap is gonna be the easiest way to go in the long run... If I get one in good shape with good brakes it'll probably be cheaper than just the brake parts for the original axle.

Mike- Thank you for offering me your 1955 Caddy rear end! I am located near Salem Oregon, so I think a trip to Spokane would probably be cost prohibitive. Are you aware of any 1970s-1980s rear axles that might be a comparable width and wheel bolt pattern for the 2R5? The motor in the truck is what was in it when I bought it- a Ford 223 I-6 -possibly from a ‘61 Ford- the records that came with the truck are a bit scattered. I believe the transmission is the original Studebaker transmission though. I also have a 1955 2E5 stude pickup which still has the original 6 cyl. motor in it (well, its in the bed, in pieces, haha). I bought the truck for the beautiful bed (it has been covered most all of its life!) and plan on swapping beds between the two trucks and selling the 2E5. On another note, my 2R5 came with a rebuilt '89 chevy 350... I've decided to sell that as well, as my goal for the truck is an affordable cruiser, which would probably be better characterized with the I-6.

[hawk58man]

I think your best bet it to look for a S10 rear end for right now.Go to the salvage yard with a friend paper and pencil and tape measure.Measure from inside of one brake backing plate to the other,that will give you your width,then measure where the spring perches are for that measurement and I think that the S10 springs will go up into the R5 and fit there.You will have a connection problem from the rear end to the drive shaft and will probably need to get the driveshaft modified so bring and have the chevy end cut and welded and balanced. Pull the wheels and rear drums off to see what condition there in and if there complete.The will probably need to be reuilt though and the drums turned.You might get lucky and find one that just had a brake job too.Remember even if you are a student Brakes are the most important part of your vehicle.You can't comprimise on them.They have to work as made. The other senior members have made some very good suggestions on going to studebaker vendors and rebuild what you have. Its tough because you have some serious gearing in that original studebaker R5 rear end. Good Luck, Welcome, and let us know how you are doing.. Take Care Mike

[Carl Purdy]

Measuring inside of backing plate won't tell you anything. I have seen all different styles of backing plates. You want from axle flange to axle flange.

[PackardV8]

You will have a connection problem from the rear end to the drive shaft and will probably need to get the driveshaft modified so bring and have the chevy end cut and welded and balanced. Pull the wheels and rear drums off to see what condition there in and if there complete.The will probably need to be reuilt though and the drums turned.

Add in the cost of the wrecking yard rear end and the wheels and tires the different bolt pattern requires. All this is less expensive than new wheel cylinders how?

jack vines

[stehlik]

There is a local Studebaker club in Salem. Also there is a member of that club that sells parts and has a small junk yard with lots of trucks, and has a ton of parts. His name is John Lassater. He lives in Lebanon Or. If you need his number e-mail me Bob

[hawk58man]

Sorry,I meant to say"axle flange to axle flange" Thanks.

[Flashback]

The 2 and 4 wheel drive S-10 rear ends are different widths. The 2 wheel drive is not as wide as the 4 wheel drive.
Be sure you measure both. I can't remember, but I think 54 and 60 are somewhere close. Wheel mounting surface.

[Danielle]

Thank you all for your advice! I have poked around these websites www.studebakervendors.com www.studebakerparts.com and was not successful in finding new wheel cylinders for a 1950 2R5 Studebaker pickup. I have lots to think about before I start working on the pickups breaks/ rear end...I'm itching to get it on the road and am wondering if I should have just bought a 50's Chevy or Ford, one you can readily get parts for. I have a week off of school next week and would be ecstatic if I could have the Stude. on the road by the end of my week off, but I know my expectations are too high.

[Milaca]

www.studebaker-intl.com has part number 521570 listed in it's most recent catalog, and these are brand new 7/8" bore rear wheel cylinders for a 2R-2E 5, 6, 7 with self-centering type brakes, also used on 1947-50 Commander car. $99.90 each. Can anyone confirm if this is applicable to his truck?

[sweetolbob]

Danielle

I think these are the parts you need. They are no inexpensive but some of the more experience members may be able to find less expensive alternatives. From Studebaker International's catalog. http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb....Z5Z5Z50001003a

Changing the rear axle is not inexpensive. Another axle will probably require a modified drive shaft which will cost about $150 all by itself. Not counting spring mounts, shock mounts and the repair parts for them. Modifying the emergency brake setup is also not trivial. The rear end change may workout down the road but I'd get the old gal on the road to see if you like it.

And last but not least, here are the rebuild kits for your's. Pull the wheel cylinders and if they are in decent shape have them honed and the bleeders replaced at your local Auto Repair store. (FLAPS). http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb....Z5Z5Z50001003a

Bob