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  • Body / Glass: Fiberglass Grill Surrounds?

    I'm cobbling together pieces for my 53 coupe front end (custom).
    I'm curious if anyone has used the fiberglass kit with the 2 grill surrounds and cross bar.
    Do they fit the same as the original, or are they tweaked to fit better?
    I'll be painting them, but do they look like the real deal?

  • #2
    What fibreglass kit?

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    • #3
      Are you talking about fiberglass components like these sold by

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      • #4
        I suspect Don is thinking of "Slick Street Stuff" run by Rene and Bonita Harger. www.slickstreetstuff.com. I have no personal experience with them, but I understand they have an excellent reputation.
        Howard - Los Angeles chapter SDC
        '53 Commander Starliner (Finally running and driving, but still in process)
        '56 Golden Hawk (3 speed/overdrive, Power steering - Running, but not yet driving)
        '58 Packard Hawk. A partially restored car that was not completely assembled.

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        • #5
          Yes, I'm referring to the glass shop http://www.the-glas-shop.com/ck.htm. I spoke with them yesterday. Their unit is made from a mold of an actual Stude front end. They assured me it would fit as poorly as the originals. (lol) . Being fiberglass it is a bit more flexible, which would help some.
          I forgot to ask about the latch area. [I wouldn't want to replace that steel crossmember/striker plate with fiberglass. ] It would be very helpful if someone with hands on experience would jump in. Can't figure out how to rename this thread "fiberglass grill surrounds?" , that might get the response we need.

          On a more personal note; I have a pair of unbroken surrounds, but I think they are "warped" a bit. I'm also missing the crossbar that goes below the surrounds, so i can't fit them to be sure. Anyone have that piece available?
          A useable painted unit might make more originals available for those who are doing restorations.

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          • #6
            Last time I asked him Dave Thibault in Mass. has solid brass repops. He said you buy 'em, fit 'em, tweak 'em and plate 'em and your all smiles. Give him a call if you are interested in having real chrome. 978 897 3158. Sorry, as far as extra parts I am still scrounging myself. Let me know if you end up with any extra stuff.

            Jon Kammer

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            • #7
              Not looking for chrome.
              Surely someone has used one of these.

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              • #8
                They have been showing up on ebay a lot lately....it is just the price of this 53-54 C/K front end stuff that is geting a little scarey! I have a completete set of everything but it is promised to another Stude friend that want to convert his 58 to a 53.
                Good Luck on ebay.
                Brian
                Brian Woods
                woodysrods@shaw.ca
                1946 M Series (Shop Truck)

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                • #9
                  OG,

                  I have a hood and rear deck lid from "The Glass Shop". I bought them used but never installed. I have not yet installed them either but the craftmanship and quality is there. I would take a chance with the glass. It is a fairly easy medium to work with if it does need modified. I bought the hood to save weight and may need to modify the hood to clear my tri-power. Good luck and let us know how they fit.

                  Jon Kammer

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                  • #10
                    I saw several real nice chrome grille surrounds and inserts at York.
                    Thought hard about them until I picked them up.
                    Whoaaa...are they heavy! (not to mention pricey)...
                    I hear you on checking out 'plan B'..
                    I am having Rick Courtier work me up some nice UV resistant photo graphic vinyl alternatives.
                    I might cut some sheet aluminum out and shape it and polish it as trim.
                    We shall see....(watching this thread with interest)
                    Jeff
                    HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

                    Jeff


                    Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



                    Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

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                    • #11
                      Talked to the glass shop again. It sounds like the fiberglass piece fits under the metal latch mount, just have to cut a hole for the latch pin, under the latch mechanism. It really sounds like this is a viable solution for us hotrodders. In the meantime, I think I have found the piece I was missing, and I have 4 grill surrounds to work with. Every one is either bent, or cracked, or broken. Typically, pieces like this would go in the trash, but I think I am going to experiment with them, see if I can save a pair. If not, I'm going with the glass.

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                      • #12
                        There are some cool products out there for repairing "Pot Metal" check them out on line.
                        Good Roads
                        Brian
                        Brian Woods
                        woodysrods@shaw.ca
                        1946 M Series (Shop Truck)

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                        • #13
                          Hey Brian. Ever used any of those products?
                          I was thinking JB weld behind the cracks.
                          Wondering about taking out some bow on the upper strip. It doesn't lay down properly. Anyone know the melting point? If I could heat it just below that point, maybe i could clamp and straighten without it breaking? These aren't usable as is, so I may as well try, but a few do's and don't would help.

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                          • #14
                            I have owned and fitted both the fiberglass and brass/bronze reproduction shells. Stay away from the metal ones. They require a tremendous amount of finish work, fit very poorly, cost alot and weigh a ton! The fiberglass one-piece on the other hand is made well, is light but not flimsy, and is a pretty darn good fit.

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                            • #15
                              Anyone know the melting point? If I could heat it just below that point, maybe i could clamp and straighten without it breaking?
                              Heat and pot metal are mutually exclusive. It melts at between 700 and 800 degrees.

                              jack vines
                              PackardV8

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