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View Full Version : Need help identifying a 1950 studebaker truck



jmeatman40
02-19-2011, 11:00 AM
Hello fellow forum members.A friend of mine has just bought a 1950 studebaker pick up out from under me.Although he is going to let me do alot of the work on it as he dont really have the time for it himself.Now the issue is I have always done concourse restorations on 1st gen mustangs and shelbys,and need all the info I can get on the truck.I was hoping there is a tag of sorts to tell me more about the truck.Where would it be if one is there?Also is it a R ,or a 2R? ITs a 1/2 ton bubble rear fender with a 6 ft bed.There is only alittle rust on the hood under where it looks like a moulding goes and there is no gas tank,and the tail gate may have to be replaced.Has new braake system but needs to be bled yet and all new wiring on it.It has 26k miles on it and came from georgia and has never left the farm ever.has a straight flat head 6 with 3 sp on the tree.Any advise is much appreciated and I can be reached on yahoo as jmeatman40 or email jmeatman40@yahoo.com.Thanks in advance,and I plan on doing it original.
Jim

52-fan
02-19-2011, 11:44 AM
Some friend if he bought it out from under you. Anyway, there are lots of knowledgeable people here. The truck would be a 2R, but we usually just refer to them as C cabs. That particular model was available as 1949-1953 offerings and the same cab was used on 1/2 ton trucks through 1959.
There are links on the Studebaker Drivers Club site to vendors you will need. You might also check out the Studebaker truck forum.

2R5
02-19-2011, 11:53 AM
Jim , there should be a plate with the VIN # just above the inside step near the seat .
The truck depending on what size the engine would be a 2R5 or a 2R6 . The 2R5 has a 170 cub engine and the 2R6 has a 245 cub engine.

studegary
02-19-2011, 04:58 PM
An R would be the first prototype of this series of pickup. There was only one built AFAIK. You would have the production model which is a 2R.

I would identify the location of the data plate as the driver's seat riser.

jmeatman40
02-20-2011, 08:30 AM
Thanks for the help guys it really helped me out.My next question is did they come with a gas fired heater in them?This one has one in it and also chrome front and rear bumpers.and no radio.I will have to run out to my buddies place and get the numbers off of the tag for the rest of the info.It is red or an orangish red paint which is original with black seat covers and 16" wheels which are new michelins all the way around.He picked it up for 2k.Just waiting for the weather to change a bit to remove the box and engine to blast the frame and either powder coat or por 15 it.Did the inside roof have a cardboard like headliner?or was it bare metal?I sugjested that we change it over to a 12 volt system and he isnt sure if he wants to.
JIm

4961Studebaker
02-20-2011, 09:07 AM
Take pictures as well, over the years there are many bumpers that were added to the trucks to suit a persons need.
Rear bumpers on a stude were able to be ordered (options) A true stude 49-53 chrome bumper is quite an accessory, so visual confirmation to the correct type needs to be done before I would say you have a "rare" one.

See if it has a rear view mirror as well, correct one's are quite an option to have.
Gas fired heaters........not a stude item for the 49-53. All were water type, I won't get into the various types...Just that they were not gas fired. The heaters were optional, so someone has added the gas unit you have.

16 in wheels sounds right.

And yes the headliner/and rear window surround were made of a cardboard type material. All of which is currently available in reproduction kits.
Sunvisors also.

Enjoy the truck.....Get some pictures, there were NUMEROUS quirks and items that could be ordered and omitted on these trucks. So if you want or need a specific answer without being inundated with What if's, this is how, this year only, etc. TAKE A PIC.

7293 Probably the best parts identifier manual you can purchse......ebay sometimes as well.......and from most any Stude Vendor.

And the Shop Manual, step by step fixes, repairs, explanation, etc, etc of systems on the trucks.
7294

JDP
02-20-2011, 09:12 AM
BTW, no need to convert to 12 volts, just make sure his 6 volt system is up to snuff. ( Large battery cables, clean connections, good starter and generator.)

jmeatman40
02-20-2011, 09:19 AM
Thanks for the info,I will take pictures as soon as I can get out to his place.The rear veiw mirror was on the drivers door,but is missing now but the screw holes are there and pulled out somewhat.The truck was a farm truck all its life and never driven on the roads where it came from.
I will have to start to order repo supply books and get a shop manual soon as it will be warm here in michigan soon and want to get started on it soon.I need to get my 69 shelby out of his garage soon so there is plenty of room for everything to be done.
Is it advisable to change over to a 12 volt system or does that hurt the value much on these trucks?I know on mustangs and shelby's its all about original.

JDP
02-20-2011, 09:41 AM
Thanks for the info,I will take pictures as soon as I can get out to his place.The rear veiw mirror was on the drivers door,but is missing now but the screw holes are there and pulled out somewhat.The truck was a farm truck all its life and never driven on the roads where it came from.
I will have to start to order repo supply books and get a shop manual soon as it will be warm here in michigan soon and want to get started on it soon.I need to get my 69 shelby out of his garage soon so there is plenty of room for everything to be done.
Is it advisable to change over to a 12 volt system or does that hurt the value much on these trucks?I know on mustangs and shelby's its all about original.

Changing over to 12 volts if done correctly won't hurt the value much unless you are building a show truck, but not worth the effort unless you feel the need for 12 volt accessories.

Jim B PEI
02-20-2011, 10:24 AM
Changing over to 12 volts if done correctly won't hurt the value much unless you are building a show truck, but not worth the effort unless you feel the need for 12 volt accessories.

Its the hidden faults--hidden corrosion on ground straps, internal corrosion on old cables, and wrong cable size (ie, 12 V instead of 6 V grade) that keeps a 6 volter from starting in a snap. I mean, if you go with an Optima style battery, and plug in a 6 volt alternator with electronic regulation instead of a generator with mechanical VR, for everyday use, it will be super dependable and always start. Just save any 6 Volt stuff you take off and put it in a well marked box in a dry place for maybe the next owner, should they decide to return it to bone stock.