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poweroptions
10-31-2010, 11:20 PM
Where's a guy to find a 6 volt fuel sending unit ? SI's was faulty and they asked me to return it. thanxs

r1lark
11-01-2010, 07:06 AM
I used one of SI's 6 volt sending units in my '54 sedan. It took a lot of adjusting of the float arm (using an ohm meter to check the output) to get it close to correct. SI's 6v repro senders are NOT 'plug and play' items - in other words, you can't just bolt them and expect them to be correct, at least in my experience. Mine works well now, although it only goes to 7/8 scale when the tank is full. However, I'm more worried about the EMPTY being correct....<G>

poweroptions
11-01-2010, 08:18 AM
My sending unit would only budge the gauge to 1/8-1/4 tank when it was full. I called SI they said that they were all faulty. The float arm is maxed out against the stop. Did you bend your arm where it attaches by the hold down screw?

41 Frank
11-01-2010, 10:04 AM
So which model do you need the sender for? I have some 6volt NOS senders still available such as the 519423 47-48 Champion and Commander units. Don't know if this will fit later models or not. Although some list only one 525548 number for 47-55 sedans.

Where's a guy to find a 6 volt fuel sending unit ? SI's was faulty and they asked me to return it. thanxs

sasquatch
11-01-2010, 11:55 AM
I got one from Studebakers West. Works great. http://www.studebakerswest.net/category.sc?categoryId=21

r1lark
11-01-2010, 05:15 PM
I had to change the shape of the arm somewhat, but mainly made changes to the 'stops'.

poweroptions
11-01-2010, 05:47 PM
I got one from Studebakers West. Works great. http://www.studebakerswest.net/category.sc?categoryId=21

Stude West said his were faulty now also

poweroptions
11-01-2010, 05:57 PM
So which model do you need the sender for? I have some 6volt NOS senders still available such as the 519423 47-48 Champion and Commander units. Don't know if this will fit later models or not. Although some list only one 525548 number for 47-55 sedans.

It's for my 52 Champion. I bought a #525548 from SI, which is published in their catalog as being for 47-55 6V cars. It has a one wire terminal on the sender. Seems to me yours would work don't you think??? Hey I had to say I was born and raised in Falls City. We farmed the bottom land of what is now Indian Cave State Park . Moved to TX in 79. Let me know what you think, I'm new to Studebakers and am not knowledgeble to them. Also your price? thanks

41 Frank
11-01-2010, 07:07 PM
Well I must say you are probably better off in Texas! No, things here are good for the farmers here, good crops last few years but that also usually means lower crop prices. I am not and never have been a farmer. Tough life.Yes we are not far from Falls City as you know. Have been to Indian Cave State Park couple of times. Lot of bottom land got flooded this year. I will go down to the inventory in the morning and check if mine has one wire. I really can't think of what the difference could be in the two different part numbers if they supposedly interchange. I will send you a private message with your price. Click the notification box at the top of this page to read your message.


It's for my 52 Champion. I bought a #525548 from SI, which is published in their catalog as being for 47-55 6V cars. It has a one wire terminal on the sender. Seems to me yours would work don't you think??? Hey I had to say I was born and raised in Falls City. We farmed the bottom land of what is now Indian Cave State Park . Moved to TX in 79. Let me know what you think, I'm new to Studebakers and am not knowledgeble to them. Also your price? thanks

poweroptions
11-01-2010, 08:07 PM
Thank you Frank, my grandfather went to St. Deroin school at the foot of St. Deroin hill in Indian Cave my great great great grandfather was William Bratton who traveled with Lewis and Clark. As a kid we farmed the 600 acres of bottom that lay in front of St. Deroin. We lost it to eminent domain in the early 70s for the park. I use to cultivate and rotary hoe in those endless summer days on the bottom with my dad. Many of my kinfolk are buried in those bluffs within the park. Well, it's some wonderful fond memories, time has marched on. I own a antique mall outside Tyler nowadays. I live in yesterday with my old cars, and antiques. I thank you for your help.

41 Frank
11-01-2010, 08:16 PM
Lots of history there for sure. I'll send you a message tomorrow after I check on the sender I have.

Thank you Frank, my grandfather went to St. Deroin school at the foot of St. Deroin hill in Indian Cave my great great great grandfather was William Bratton who traveled with Lewis and Clark. As a kid we farmed the 600 acres of bottom that lay in front of St. Deroin. We lost it to eminent domain in the early 70s for the park. I use to cultivate and rotary hoe in those endless summer days on the bottom with my dad. Many of my kinfolk are buried in those bluffs within the park. Well, it's some wonderful fond memories, time has marched on. I own a antique mall outside Tyler nowadays. I live in yesterday with my old cars, and antiques. I thank you for your help.

pyrodork
11-01-2010, 11:04 PM
while the thread is open, i'll say i need one for my 51 champion. not anytime quickly, but probably closer to spring. will be getting a custom tank built.

or would someone recommend getting a 12v sender and putting a resistor in the line? i havent decided whether or not i plan to change to 12v in the future.

StudeRich
11-02-2010, 12:11 AM
A stock sending unit will be useless with a custom built Tank, as the volume and depth would have to be identical to the original to work.
It will require a custom made sender using a UNIVERSAL UNIT with the float arm bent to read correctly.

pyrodork
11-02-2010, 12:34 AM
thanks, rich!

PlainBrownR2
11-02-2010, 01:15 AM
I had a similar situation not all that long ago(okay about a month, lol) with looking for a workable fuel sender and matching gauge for the '55. The fuel cell had a sender, but it was different style of sender, where rather than the arm and the potentiometer, it had a float with a set of reed switches. I could have went back to Summit to pick up the gauge, but at a show at the end of September, I had found a gauge and sender that worked perfectly for the fuel cell. The sender had an adjustable arm, bracket, and float, that according to the instructions and the lookup table it provided, could be adjusted to almost any tank. All I had to do was adjust the bracket up or down according to the depth of the tank, and then adjust the arm with float in or out to match the length of the tank, and it would provide a reasonable read of how much fuel was left in the tank on the fuel gauge. It also had a cork gasket and dropped in place of the other sender. The sender worked in a similar fashion to the senders in our Studebakers where it worked on a pivot. The sender also had a matching gauge that could be installed internal to the dash, or external on a bracket. The only bad thing is it's not entirely accurate, as it will read empty, well before I completely run on empty. Unfortunately I cannot provide the name of the mfr, as it didn't have one with the box, but they should be an easy find. The important thing is to get a matching sender and gauge with the kit.

41 Frank
11-02-2010, 09:35 AM
12 volt senders must be used with 12 volt gauges. 6 volt senders and gauges can be used with a 12 system by installing a "RUNZ" (spelling) resistor at the gage 6 volt input.

while the thread is open, i'll say i need one for my 51 champion. not anytime quickly, but probably closer to spring. will be getting a custom tank built.

or would someone recommend getting a 12v sender and putting a resistor in the line? i havent decided whether or not i plan to change to 12v in the future.

gordr
11-02-2010, 10:17 AM
There is simply no practical way to use a 12 volt sending unit with a 6 volt gauge, or vice versa. The resistance range of the two sender types (within the same maker's product) is far too different. Adding a series resistor just shifts the range further away from what the gauge needs.

If your arms reach from a foot below your waist to 2 feet above your head, standing on a stool isn't going to help you reach the cupboard under the sink.

DanGrey
12-03-2010, 06:41 PM
I wanted to offer this first post of mine to my friend Gary. http://www.freesmileys.org/smileys/smiley-cool11.gif LOL Okay, im not sure if an Fuel Sending Unit Gasket (http://www.thepartsbin.com/brands/dorman/dorman_fuel_sending_unit_gasket.html) is on topic with this thread.. but where do you usually locate that part? I phoned the dealer about an issue and hes telling me its that part.. and what problems do you usually have with this part??

______________________________
http://www.freesmileys.org/smileys/smiley-cool05.gifhttp://www.freesmileys.org/smileys/smiley-cool05.gifhttp://www.freesmileys.org/smileys/smiley-cool05.gif

52 Ragtop
12-03-2010, 07:45 PM
Try these guys to rebuild yours, you'll need to send both the gauge and the sending unit, and the depth of the tank. They did mine in my 52 Commander over 10 years ago, works great

JOHN WOLFE & CO. Inc
Mark Chapman
36420 Biltmore Place
Unit 1
Willoughby Ohio 44094
(440) 942-0083


Jim

DanGrey
12-03-2010, 10:44 PM
I dont think i need some replacement.. But thanks mate.. :)
the real issue is the part near the sending unit.. My dealer was asking that maybe i should check with the sending unit to make sure it's not affected.. anyway, thanks again.. urrhg. so where is it located..? :p

gordr
12-04-2010, 10:18 AM
I don't buy fuel sending unit gaskets. I make them. Buy a sheet of 1/16" inch rubberized cork gasket material, trace out the shape, and cut it and punch the holes. Gasket material in small sheets is commonly available at auto parts stores. Plain cork will crumble, that's why I recommend the rubberized stuff.

Like to use a thin coating of the liquid-type Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket on both sides of the sending unit gasket. And it pays to put anti-seize on the screw thread, too.

By the way, you can make clean holes in many types of gasket material by heating a nail of suitable diameter red hot with a propane torch, and using it to pierce the material.

Michidan
07-11-2011, 09:44 AM
I want to open this topic back up - I need a sender for a 52 Champion also. If the ones SI has are suspect, I will look elsewhere.
I drilled out the rivets and have my stock one completely apart. Basically it just a piece of hardboard with wire wrapped around and around. Mine is shot, board and wire are both broken.
I'm seeing the VDO makes a universal sender in the 0-90 Ohm range.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/VDO-226008/

I can see why we are discussing volts when it comes to the gauge. But why does it matter for the sender? If all we are doing is varying resistance, it would seem ohms are the only thing to discuss at the sender.
The problem with the sender above is it registers 0 Ohm empty, 90 at full. Which I believe is opposite what the studebaker gauge expects.
Would the gauge jsut read backwads?
Could a person fix that by swapping the Ign and sender wires om the back of the gauge?

gordr
07-11-2011, 09:56 AM
Dan, that looks very close. You can't "reverse" the gauge electrically, but you could reverse the sender by bending that 90 elbow in the float arm the other way. Chances are the float arm would have to be bent or changed to match up with the Stude tank, anyway.

If you get the VDO sender, do double-check the full/empty resistance before doing any bending.

Michidan
07-11-2011, 10:00 AM
So Gord, you would agree that volts don't matter in the case of the sender? They don't advertise it for 6 or 12 V...jsut the Ohm ratings.

gordr
07-11-2011, 10:26 AM
Yep. It's a resistive device. so it doesn't have a voltage rating. It could be used on any gauge that requires a resistance range of 0 - 90 ohms, regardless of the system voltage.

To all intents and purpose, an electric fuel gauge is in fact an ohmmeter. They just put "E, 1/2, F" on the gauge face so as to not confuse the driving public.

pyrodork
07-11-2011, 11:51 PM
i got the VDO "classic"(?) for my 37 plymouth and i'm having no issues. in the instructions, they made sure to tell you to have the float arm lever a certain way; since you have to remove it and trim the arm to size before installing it into the tank. if it reads backwards, i'd think you can just flip it around and put the float arm on the other side of the lever. i make no claim to knowing if this can be done or not, since i didn't need to for my project.

nice to know i don't have to mess with the sender when i convert to 12 volts! thanks gordr!

Michidan
07-14-2011, 07:43 AM
I can now vouch for the VDO universal sender (#226-008). I am for supporting the Studebaker vendors, so always hesitant about posting 'workarounds' when the correct part is still available. But this is a nice product that is very easy to install.
Here's a couple pictures seeing as I took the original sender apart. With the float arm removed, you still cannot see inside the unit the very well. Something in there varies the resistance. I figured it was a spring or something similar. 2nd picture shows the guts. There is an open ended wire wrapped around non conductive hardboard. The contact spot on the wire determines how much resistance is seen. Simple.
3rd picture is the VDO unit. First you adjust the length of the shaft for the depth of your tank. Then adjust the length of the float arm in or out. To change the unit from 0-90 Ohm to 90-0 Ohm, all you have to do is stick the float out the "wrong" side of the unit. No bending, super easy. Even the cover has 5 screw holes in the correct location, and comes with a nice rubberized gasket and a post for an extra ground wire.
By adjusting the stops and the flaot arm length, I got it so the gauge will use bout 90% of its sweep. It never gets quite to E or F. But uses all of the middle of the gauge quite nicely.

1954khardtop
07-14-2011, 08:20 AM
Thanks for the follow up Dan, good to know if my original fails.

gordr
07-14-2011, 09:52 AM
Thanks for posting pics, Dan. Often what fails is the tip of the spring arm seen in your middle photo. It was made with a little raised bump to contact the wire winding, and a corresponding dimple on the other side. Over the years, the bump gets worn off, so instead of contacting the winding at one point, it bridges a number of wires. Gauge becomes erratic and very inaccurate as a result. I did a post quite a while ago about a fix for this.

By the way, addressing Pyrodork: if you change your Plymouth over to 12 volts, you won't have to change the fuel sending unit, but you will have to use an electronic voltage regulator, such as a Runtz, in the supply line to each individual electrically-powered gauge., ammeter excluded. Those gauges are internally-compensated to allow for small changes in system voltage, say if the headlamps are on or not, but hit them with a full 12 volts, and the magic smoke will come out.

Michidan
07-14-2011, 10:32 AM
Gord - that little bump WAS missing from my sender. There was only a hole in the spring arm. I fixed it with a drop of solder. Then my original sender started working again. Not great but it was working. Then I got enthusiastic and wanted to "clean" the resistance wires. Big mistake. I broke them, which is why I drilled out the rivets and took it all apart. I'm a regular ole sender expert now. Ruining one brings knowledge.
In the end I'm real happy with the VDO unit anyway. New float, new everything.